TomP

Have been out to my R/S today and thought I'd post these just in case it helps.

Hi Chris. We seem to have lost your last post on the body being suspended, I couldn't log-on last evening for some reason anyway, I think there are 6 fixings per side, the one at the back end is above the gas tank and fixes through the trunk floor where the back section starts, there is 1/2 hole in each piece of metal. Here is my tank fixing and the first time I have looked at it, I am of the feeling that its not tight enough in appearance, also the strap meets the solid fixing so I will probably fold the felt and double up on it. Not sure that felt is the correct material to use as it will hold moisture. ​The rubber pads attached to the strap are 4" long X 3/8" thick.

Chris, To be honest I don't know, I could guess but that's not we're here for, hopefully some one will tell us.

Have now checked the body to the wooden bearers and the wood is 1/4" lower than the body, on the frame with a straight edge I'm finding that body brackets and the chassis rivet heads are level so to me the same thickness of body felt or canvas webbing should be ok. On the question of the front engine mount I have a 34 engine fitted, the rubber mounting is 5/16" thick with 3/4" thick to the gearbox.

Hi Chris, on mine there are 2 wooden bearers that the body sits on when bolted to the chassis, I was hoping that they take up that extra height of the chassis rivets?? I'm at the car tomorrow and will check. When you talk about body webbing is that the pipped weather strip? as fitted around the fenders or a felt based strip.

Chris, think we had our wires crossed, I was referring to the lip at the bottom of the fire wall (ref post #35). Once I have my wheel up and running that piece should be quite easy to replicate.

Thanks Chris & Scott , if you look at my photo in post #35 you can see the trottle linkage from the engine side, is the toe board all one piece ?

​How much of the floor should be steel or is it just the toe board??

Another mystery bracket Found this bracket in a box of bits but I only seem to have the RHS, is this the right place for it??

Thanks Chris. Any chance of taking another lower down across the back from the gas filler to the middle trying to see if the panel turns its nose up before the rad that fixes to the gas tank cover. Sorry to be a pain.

Kev that's what you call a result, put Ian on the Christmas card list. Like your style Ian, wonder if youv'e got anything I need.

Need more advice on what the shape should be where the back panel meets the rear valance In the process of shaping a panel to go across the bottom of the rear panel, pic 1 is looking across the back with the rear valance in place which has a curve that will join the trunk floor pan. Above that is the rear panel with the lower 2" missing. Question 1 :- Across the back panel does the rad increase towards the bottom or is it constant (its got a 3/4" bow at the top) Chris (1935EB) mentioned a wedge shaped bracket that goes between the floor pan and the back panel. Question 2 :- If the back panel is constant, does the bottom curve backwards to meet the valance as in pic 2. Thanks for looking.

The side mount covers, when fitting to the wheel are they in 2 halves where the chrome strip is or is the hole which passes over the tyre the same size as the tyre. Why I ask is that my 33 Plymouth should have the covers with the steel rod and clamp from the bottom of the fender to the cowl. Now being UK based it's going to be nye impossible to get replacements, so over a period of time I am gathering info to reproduce them.

​I'm also going to take a guess, This is definitely a 33, trust me, and the build card says wire wheels, because of the state of the roads or no roads in the Bloemfontein area of South Africa they might of stored the wires and fitted the steels for durability. One things for sure its back on wire wheels now. Thanks for your input.

Here's the best I can do but got to say they are more rounded than I thought, they fit the sidemount cover OK but of course they might not even be Chrysler.

Hi Mr T, that was what I thought, not having much knowledge on the subject but I don't think they appeared in the UK until 1938 on the Morris and Standard 8s. This next clip is the same car in 1970. The Mini in the background didn't launch until 1959

The photo under has been sent to me and I am wondering if the wheels on it were right for the day, It is a PD and would guess taken around 1940?? I have checked the parts book but don't see a steel pressed wheel listed. What are your thoughts? Thanks

This is a 33 Plymouth rack which to me looks the same apart from the emblem ​If they are the same and sure someone will soon tell us , it could make your search easier for a replacement. Sure is a nice looking motor.

Chris those blades look great, think my rear will come up ok, did I read somewhere that your front is a repo.? when you get a minute could you measure across the outside fixings on the front are so that I can compare it to the one I have. Many thanks.

That dims does it for me Mike, Thanks

Mike the body metal is 19swg but the gutter channel and the rear beam are thicker not sure of the gauge?

​Your a true Gent, thank you.

Hi Mike, these are from my 33 Plymouth PD Rumble Seat Coupe which is a dodge body (or close to) Not sure what the 2 holes are for but I will get them at the end of the week. Note that vertical end points are to the outer edge of the bead line (where I think yours has been cut off) as mine is rusted out at the bottom rad.

Thanks Boys great information, and Mr T don't let the beggars get you down, the work you do is invaluable (we wont mention mechanical and hydraulic brakes here)

​OK understand what you are saying, no they do not appear in the 1933 parts list. What I could do with is the dim of the 2 fixing holes as marked in photo and also what the stand-off from the horns to the back face of the bumper blade.