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Everything posted by TomP

  1. I am restoring a 33 Plymouth PD R/S should there be a rain collector under the vent? all I have is the vent lid and opening linkage, any chance of posting photos of the underside of the vent. Many thanks
  2. I checked today and pretty sure it's spot welded down the front side of the 'A' pillar also there is a weld at the top corner close to the screen opening, this weld gets covered by the top dash insert. On that subject mine has threaded hank bushes in the 4 fixings so I don't have those rubber expanding bushes. The dash does have 4 3/4" dia depressions where the earlier dashes were pierced thru. I'll take my camera with me tomorrow.
  3. Hi Billy, thanks for your kind words, I'm chuffed with the results, just the big piece to do but it is all made up of mainly three oval holes for the instrument cluster, glove box and dummy glove box lid. ​The art of decoupage, modern colour printers and time.
  4. ​Perhaps I didn't make myself clear, it was the dash panel itself that I was questioning as to whether that is removable or not. If it has to be done in situe it will have to wait for the better weather, chilly and damp here now. ​Thanks again for the excellent work you do on the PD's and others.
  5. Hi Dwight glad you like it, there was no way I wanted to spend £400 + shipping for a kit I would only use once and if I'd wanted to save more I could have taken the files on a memory stick to the print shop and saved the ink on my printer. It may be a fix for someone that's got a repair because you can change the final colour by the tint in the varnish, I finished with 7 coats of clear and 3 of light oak, the more light oak used the greener it looked but it also makes it darker, if that makes sense.
  6. Have just finished the Top Dashboard insert, thought I would post up the end results being that this part shows before and after. the light plays tricks but I think you will get the idea. Mr T am I right in thinking that the panel that these parts fix to is part of the body shell?? Thanks for looking
  7. Basically the first part of the thread before the images is a rant about a product that the supplier advice me would do the job IMO it was most unsuitable, cost me far more than what I finished up doing, Sorry for airing my thoughts. 1. The Italian product did not stretch or shrink while using the heat gun, there was also a loss in adhesion. 2. The pattern was only printed on plain copy paper. 3. After the printed paper had dried on the panel I first sprayed it with 1 coat of clear lacquer before applying 10 coats of clear varnish. My reason for multiple coats of varnish was to create a deep moisture barrier to protect the paper.
  8. Hi Allan. Thanks for your interest, I went back to basics, after reading ply33's experiments and experiences while tackling his rebuild I decided it wasn't a way that I could make it look right (nothing wrong at all with Mr T's instructions just unknown territory for me). I found this image in A4 I then printed it onto plain copy paper, full size print with no border, I didn't use adhesive backed paper because I needed the movement and flexibility between the paper and the metal surfaces. (by flipping the image perfect joints can be made when joining pieces) Some might liken it to wallpapering, so I'll say it for them. Note of warning !! I found that if I didn't spray the back of the paper with clear lacquer after printing the red ink would bleed through to the glued side causing the print to turn green. I used PAV paper adhesive brushed out evenly then straight to the part, NO soak time. Beware of air bubbles. You can also get away slight overlap which is disguised by the 10 layers of varnish.
  9. Have spent time lately trying to find a way of recreating the finish on the Dashboard and window Garnishes for my 33 PD. Not being an artist I looked to find what was available on the market but all I found was expensive systems and services which didn't sit well with my budget. I found some plastic material under flexible foil and phoned the company to check it out, it's got an adhesive backing which I thought would save time, it's applied with a heatgun so stretching and shrinkage is taken care of so that would look after the contours of the panels, and when finished it can be lacquered to keep it safe. Sounded to good to be true and it was, so I have in stock 2 x A3 sheets which I can't use or return, forgot to say the instructions were in Italian. This is what I finished with. Basically I found a print on the net while surfing for burr walnut images, I flipped it to get the other hand, printed it in best quality, glued it to the metalwork, gave it 10 coats of clear varnish, rubbed it down with 1000 wet and dry and followed up with 2 good coats of quality clear lacquer. Its not perfect, needs cutting back with cutting compound and a polish, hopefully then will be good top go. Cost probably less that £20 and about 50 hrs, but times cheap these days being retired. Hope you like.
  10. ​All looks good from here Chris, when are you planning to do the loose fit?
  11. ​Any chance you could post a photo, someone that knows the parts may have an opinion on what it might fit?
  12. If this seller has been trading for more than 8 years I find it unbelievable that he doesn't have a returns policy, I'm not defending him, I'm the other side of the pond. Is there anyway that you have been supplied with the wrong parts, I say this because these parts aren't easy to make. I just hope it's not one of the suppliers I mentioned above, at this stage I wouldn't think you have thrown good money away. I am in need of the same part for my 33 PD but I will probably make it, just done the bottom rear quarters and patched the rear panel on my R/S Coupe. Keep us posted
  13. With the problem of rain water running of the trunk lid should there be a rain collector within the trunk? Some sort of gutter between the curved side rails with an outlet pipe to carry water through the floor to the outside. Remember we are talking Rumble seat Coupe. Any ideas and photos if a standard part exists. Thanks for your help.
  14. Thanks Mike, that's the dims. plus Chris has sent me close-ups across the complete panel assembly. Forward with the projects, I'm getting ready start the interior wood frame in the rumble seat area, once Ive sorted out if there should be rain collector attached to the rear panel below the lid opening.
  15. Hi Gents, I think this is what you are talking about http://members.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewUserPage&userid=plymouthdoctor they do panels from 1935 onwards, if you want earlier go to http://www.rileyreproductions.com/ 1933/34. Hope it helps.
  16. This has just popped up in my inbox, maybe of interest to someone. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1933-PLYMOUTH-PC-PD-COUPE-SEDAN-33-EXTREMELY-RARE-ORIGINAL-PAINT-CHIPS-DUPONT-/370901042652?ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:GB:3160
  17. ​Ian your last posting is a great asset, just need someone to do the same for a Plymouth PD.Thank you.
  18. Have been out to my R/S today and thought I'd post these just in case it helps.
  19. Hi Chris. We seem to have lost your last post on the body being suspended, I couldn't log-on last evening for some reason anyway, I think there are 6 fixings per side, the one at the back end is above the gas tank and fixes through the trunk floor where the back section starts, there is 1/2 hole in each piece of metal. Here is my tank fixing and the first time I have looked at it, I am of the feeling that its not tight enough in appearance, also the strap meets the solid fixing so I will probably fold the felt and double up on it. Not sure that felt is the correct material to use as it will hold moisture. ​The rubber pads attached to the strap are 4" long X 3/8" thick.
  20. Chris, To be honest I don't know, I could guess but that's not we're here for, hopefully some one will tell us.
  21. Have now checked the body to the wooden bearers and the wood is 1/4" lower than the body, on the frame with a straight edge I'm finding that body brackets and the chassis rivet heads are level so to me the same thickness of body felt or canvas webbing should be ok. On the question of the front engine mount I have a 34 engine fitted, the rubber mounting is 5/16" thick with 3/4" thick to the gearbox.
  22. Hi Chris, on mine there are 2 wooden bearers that the body sits on when bolted to the chassis, I was hoping that they take up that extra height of the chassis rivets?? I'm at the car tomorrow and will check. When you talk about body webbing is that the pipped weather strip? as fitted around the fenders or a felt based strip.
  23. Chris, think we had our wires crossed, I was referring to the lip at the bottom of the fire wall (ref post #35). Once I have my wheel up and running that piece should be quite easy to replicate.
  24. Thanks Chris & Scott , if you look at my photo in post #35 you can see the trottle linkage from the engine side, is the toe board all one piece ?
  25. ​How much of the floor should be steel or is it just the toe board??
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