justjoe

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About justjoe

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  • Birthday 12/10/1957
  1. Had this photo for a long time of my grandfather. I was told it was a whippet, but from what I have found it doesnt look like one. To me this car looks earlier than a whippet. The hood radiator is strange, the hood appears to go over the top of the radiator. Also there is no light bar across the headlights. Any help to identify this would be great.
  2. Sounds like you are sucking air instead of trans fluid. The intake screen is attached to the valve body with a rubber grommet, if that grommet is coming apart that could be your problem. Also a spring on the suction pipe keeps the screen at the bottom of the pan, that also should be checked. I would remove the pan and clean everything up and check that screen. good luck the screen shot is of the shop manual with the trans upside down and the pan off
  3. Thanks, I'll need to start looking for it. Have no idea what I did with it.
  4. I am putting my engine back together and have the intake and exhaust manifold mounted loose. On the rear stud is just a alignment pin, but the next one towards the front does not have a boss on the manifolds. It has been about a year it has been apart and did not take photos before I took it apart. The manual does not show any illustrations as to what goes where. your input would be greatly appreciated. Also is that special rectangle washer need to be installed horizontally or vertically.
  5. I have seen many vent free heaters installed in garages and none of them people were very happy with. These things are unvented so the products of combustion end up in the conditioned space. A product of combustion is water (look at the tail pipe of your car), it makes a very damp space that really never drys out. Some even have have an oxygen sensor to turn it off if it burns up all the oxygen, that really makes you feel safe. They are supposed to have a ceramic type block that it burns against to reburn all of the unburnt fuel and eliminate all or most of the carbon monoxide. With tons of fresh air that may work, but to get the place warm you would need to seal up the place and that is the problem. I would buy a Reznor or Modine hanging unit heater that has a b-vent chimney through the roof, or it could be side vented. Another option would be a williams direct vent wall furnace. The williams is a great garage furnace because it is sealed, it takes 100% of the combustion air from the outside and vents the flue products outside as well. It also is a counter flow furnace meaning it takes air from up high and the blows it down against the cold garage floor. If you are under a car in a cold garage that heat feels good. I would take most sizing charts and throw them out the window, you are heating a garage and the most important thing is to get it to temperature to work as fast as possible. More often than not you are in the garage for 3-4 hours then not in it for a couple of days, any size furnace set down to 45 degrees will not waste much gas. Bottom line get a large heater, a 20x24 could even use a 45,000 btu. hope my 2 cents helps joe
  6. I had my 248 crank turned for $275.00, with a couple of rods, bearings and gasket kit it was under a grand. Some of these shops I talked to wanted to sell all kinds of stuff, one told me it needed to be straightened first ( ???) for $150.00 then a special crank machine (because it was so long) for $600. Wire brushes, a pressure washer, carb clean and brake clean will get any block reasonably clean. Make sure all of the coolant passages are clear. Some of these shops hear classic car engine and the dollar signs flash in their eyes, they are used to dealing with hot rodders with bottomless pockets. I'm in Illinois and used Budget engine in chicago, did a great job. My engine was "rebuilt" when I got the car. It was very noisy and seized, on tear down I found that some dope cut the crank 20 under and used 10 under bearings. Obviously they did not use plastigauge, it must have run 10 minutes. It had a new fresh 20 under bore and pistons so the fix was simple. Kind of glad I got the chance to go through the motor and make should everything was right. I should have known what was to come because I also found the torque converter drain holes not lined up with the holes in the flex plate and was tightened up and bent the plate. I suggest you talk to other people near you before select a machine shop. Get a firm price on what they are to do and hold them to it. just my 2 cents thanks joe
  7. Well I have been a lurking this site for a while, I should at least share a little info on my car. I have a 1950 buick special 4 door 41D. I bought it off ebay in 07 site unseen (my mail order bride). It was from new mexico and very solid. I have some rust on the rockers, some small holes in the floors, but that is about it. The interior is toast, side windows broke and the motor and trans had some issues. So far I have rebuilt the trans, the motor, replaced the brakes and bought a new carb. My goal is to get the car mechanically repaired and drive it before I start on the body. I also have to replace the wiring harness(rhode island should help on that). The car needs ALOT of work but enjoy working on it. My fear with a project like this(and I have seen other people do it) is to tear a car so far apart that it will never get back together, especially a car like a special that is not worth a lot of money when it is done. Anyway this will be cheaper than a $15,000.00 fishing boat. Okay the buick is still a boat, but the whole project is about the journey and not all about the end result. This week end I am going to send my water pump off to Bob's for a rebuild and see if I can find a local guy to boil out my radiator. The first photo with the car on the trailer was the one from e-bay. Hopefully I should get it on the road late this summer. I am in Mchenry Illinois Thanks Joe
  8. On line several companies have custom made seat covers. I have a 1950 41D 4 door and need front and back seat upholstery. I know that several local guys could recover them, but I am going to guess it to be about 1500.00 I am not looking for anything "correct" or perfect, just good looking for what the car is. Rebuilding the seat frames and adding padding is not a problem for me. Are these on line seat covers okay, and does anyone have any suggestions? thanks Joe
  9. That is a very good question, would like to hear some good advise. I too have some areas that are the same.