55 SURVIVOR

Paul; My guess would be the "seperation" of anything with chrome moulding as A factor of definition.I overlooked when you mention sedan,and I know what you mean.I know it is not A Buick,but my Plymouth used the gutter rails as well,it is a 4 door sedan.

Paul; Your looking at one,never been painted,carlsbad black,dover white. Mark

No need to,unless some of the old tube is still in the passage way,take it off and you can hit it with A glass bead medium for A good clean up,the rivets have A twist,mine came out easily with vise grips.

Robert; I just went through this on my 59 Plymouth,alot of them were left bare,that is the way I'm leaving this one (3 speed torqueflite,complete re- build).My 55 Buick is all original and is also bare but I have no pics to show you.What was cool when I did the Plymouth was finding assembley stamps,yellow paint markings etc. (assembley inspection). I started with A putty knife,and ended with a pressure wash/elbow grease,I'll bet mine was worse than yours.Also if there is A leak,A casting crack,you will see where it is coming from,just some thoughts Thanks Mark

Hello; Does anyone know where I can get a battery hold down bracket and hardware? I have the tray just need the rest.Also does anyone know the stock bias tire size and correct whitewall width for the 1959 plymouth fury? Thanks Mark

NTX5467 Thanks for the links,they were very helpfull!! It seems the previous owner had installed the wrong cable[way too long,wrong thread shield/too small] however I did notice from the diagram I was also missing a clip,adjuster was in wrong,and a missing adjuster acsess/cover plate.Thank you so much for your help and I have saved them for future reference. Again thanks Mark

Hello;I have a 59 plymouth fury,My e brake does not hold on a slight grade,replaced the shoes[old ones were paper thin] but still have alot of slack in the cable.I made a spacer shim at the housing enterance and it helps,there is a bolt and nut at that point which doesn;t seem to have a purpose.The question is is my cable super stretched,or am I missing a part externaly,or internal? It is a 7 inch drum at the tail of the tranny[drive shaft connects to it].Does anyone have a diagram of the e-brake assembley? THANKS MARK

I will be there. Mark

Jerry;Nice job,nice ride!! I'am always the only Buick also[lots of tri 5 chevy's]everybody loves the Buick!! Those coolers are a nice touch,I have a old coke and pepsi cooler that gets alternated[and used] gets alot of comments.I also have an original 3" IKE campaign button stuck on the hump under the heater,it say's "FOR THE LOVE OF IKE VOTE REPUBLICAN" he was president when the car was new,they get a kick out of it. Looking good!! Mark

Robert;Just a thought,Have you checked to see if the torque converter drain plugs are tight,I think there are 3.You can get to them by removing the 4 bolts/acsess cover.The loose plug/plugs will "sling" oil when the converter is spinning/running.I always look at cheap,easy,obvious,first.If it is the seal your biggest challenge is just getting it out,just work it a little at a time.Good luck!! Mark

Robert;Your trunk has a "NICE SHINE",whats a moonshine cruise without moonshine???? I love your pics,especialy the 37 dodge.Lots of nice rides,nice ones for sale too!! How many vehicles does that show draw?

She's A beautiful ride,Nice job!!!!!!

Awesome;Looks like a good time!!!

P.S. Nice car I saw your pics,All I can say is roll up your sleeves,dig in, and hang on!!!!!! Just take one thing at a time,I went down the same road but would not change it for the world!!!!!!! Mark

Rockabilly;Thats why it has a realy big steering wheel[banjo] Parrallel parking is not easy.You can get the lever shock re-built,also the struts connecting them may be shot and are replaceable,check anything rubber,as age and "sitting" takes it's toll.GOOD LUCK!! Mark

AND THEIR OFF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Jerry;The regulator is new and works well but the settings may be "close" but not exact.It was set up at the manufacturer.There are 3 contacts inside that are adjustable.Cut in/out,volts,amps.The guy that did your generator could probably explain that.When you sit at stop,with the lights on drawing from the battery the lights will dim some what and discharge,generators need speed to produce power,alternators do not.That condition will be normal.If the car is off and you dis-connect and re-connect the battery cable do you see any kind of spark?That would indicate the regulator has not "cutout" the contacts are still closed causing the battery to dis-charge even though the car is "off".I'm sure you have a clock but the draw from it would be very very minimal.Iwould take your car to the fellow that did your generator,i'm sure he could check the function of the regulator,the guys that do generators/starters are very good with regulators too!! I love the pic of your car it looks awesome!!! Good luck Mark

Jerry; I think the voltage regulator needs turned up a little more,there are adjustments for volt output and amps.It maybe fine during the day,but on the border line with the lights on.What does the gauge indicate? I think the regulator just needs tweeked a little more. Mark

SKYLARK;Look for "build sheets" I found mine under the front seat springs,one behind the driver under the carpet,and a different one inside the passenger corner molding.They also can be on top of the glove box,or radio.They can be found while gently looking and not "tearing the car apart".Most were thrown out at the factory,or later at the dealer.The oil change stickers are a plus to,also original sales documents,dealer badge,owners manual/warranty info{original owners name,dates}etc.etc. Any documentation is an added plus.You can also research paint and interior options on the internet available at that time.I found the hand written sheets{they were posted on the sides of the car as it moved down the assembly line}sometimes called "cheat sheets" for my 55. Mine was built at the Wilmington plant,spent it's entire life in Philadelphia Pa.My car is also a survivor,interior, carpet,paint.Upclose the paint has "issues" cracks crazing etc{57 years old}.Re- paints are easy to spot.Your car in the pics appears to me to be original,the question for the new owner leave it? Or restore? That is difficult.All I have heard is leave it alone,keep it in good repair,and maintained.I guess the next person can cross that road after i'm gone,I just don't want it to get chopped and dropped,frenched,and what ever else they do that they think looks good to them.Your sale may take time be patient.Every show i've taken mine to draws a crowd,as does any car that is original,people like to see them as they were,I hear it all the time.Maybe spend some time with her and make her a keeper,hoppin to GM is ok too!!!!!!!!!! MARK

You have a very rare car,not only a survivor{nice}but a skylark,I dont know if you can put even a ball park figure on it,AIM HIGH!!I love survivors not many left,certainly not in that kind of shape!Hope it gets a good home mine did!!!!!!!! BEAUTIFUL RIDE!!!!!!!!!!!!!! MARK

Robert; a quick P.S. Make sure the float is not in any way hanging up,due to miss align,a piece of gasket interfere,etc.etc.It must work smoothly!! GOOD LUCK MARK

Robert;Sounds like your on it,thought I would put in what I went through.Mine was and is 12 volt,not sure what the components are for the earlier 6volt,or the conversion.I have replaced most of the electrical components because it's a driver,if it stayed in the garage just to "look" at I would have left it alone,although I save everything that comes off it.My problem was it would start and run for a moment,sometimes a number of minutes,then quit,just like you turned the key off,would re-start and be fine.Did notice it would act up after it was warm{2nd or 3rd start up while out and about}resistor was the original,and I suspected heat was factoring into it.I replaced it last april and have had not one gremlin since[1100 mi.ago] and it's been hotter than he--!! I keep a spare,cause when they go it will leave you stranded[easy fix].The float level should be even with the threads with the bowl plug out and running,does seem a little high but I don't think high enough to flood out.What type of needle seat do you have? Is an actual conical/needle,or the "new rounded" domed type.I could not find an old school needle,and used a rounded one,[probably crap from china} and it would not seat well{using the mouth sucking blowing method}I scuffed it very very lightly with scotch bright,and it seats good!!! The domed have a rubber composite,the old needle style is brass.While you have the bowl apart also look for water in the bowl,some may have gotten in some how,I like the glass bowl filter,I can see the fuel. Just some food for thought!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! MARK

Robert;Have you ever changed the ignition coil ballast resistor?May want to do it anyway,it may be getting warm and begining to fail,they are inexpensive and good to have a spare handy anyway.It regulates proper voltage from the coil,fuel problems may also be ignition.NAPA AUTO sells them over the counter,$12 or$13 bucks.Just a thought!!! MARK

Mike hit it,you have a bad ground,run a jumper from sender mount screw to frame[clean from any rust].