55 SURVIVOR

Paul;I would say to take off the link and the cross over,that is what I did,the pump screen hangs very close to the pan floor and needs A bit more clearance than the cross over will alow,I would take the cross over off,might be A good time to check the manifold gaskets as well,I replaced mine,didn'nt have any trouble with the manifold nuts though.I did have sludge in the pan,and I cleaned the screen as well. For what it is worth(nothing)Erie pa. currently holds the "snow" record in the U.S. so far(over 100") would like to pass the torch to some other city if they would like to have it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Mark M

Rob;It's called getting bit by the bug,I picked up A 59 Plymouth Fury,still have the Buick and always will,I have A few others I have always liked{49-51 merc,59 pontiac,53-58 cadillac,and anything Sedanette,but as Mary and Joeseph were told there is no more room at the Inn!!!! Have fun with your purchase,love the pics,I enjoy seeing them as they are/were. Mark M

Thanks for the pics,it was hard to make it farther than Betty Page!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

38 Buick; I checked the 55 chevy rims out in my other garage to my 55 Buick,they are completely different,sorry I mis- informed you,OLD TANK, and the other posts are correct,it has no locate post,and A smaller center hole,RIV NUT hit the nail on the head.Scratch my post. Good luck! Mark M

What about rims off A 55 chevy? Very common,I have 2 very vice stock rims. Mark M

Robert; I think your problem is you MC,plug the outlet,remove the cap,fill with fluid,leave the cap off,and look for air bubbles while depressing no more than an inch,let out slowly,let it set about 15 seconds and occasionaly tap the body with A plastic screwdriver handle,do this process 4 or 5 times(on the bench if possible)the piston should get hard and end up with probably no more than 1/8 inch of travel,if not,and you keep seeing air bubbles in the resevoir your sucking air and have A MC problem,also and I know they are not cheap,but A good double flare kit,mine is A RIGID #4A518 at grainger industrial supply,I had no good luck with the auto store off the shelf flare kits,they can leave hair line cracks at the flare you may not see.You need A good double flare on steel lines,mine works like A pro.If you have A hair line at the flare all the tightning will not help it.But it sounds lika MC problem to me. Just A thought Mark M

Robert; very very nice,if that car could talk it would say "thanks for giving me another life". Mark M

Sounds like A weak coil,check it with A meter,also check the condensor. Mark M

Where will it end? It depends on the size of the wallet!!! Actually the o ring was free,they said it wasn't worth writing up,and the flat rubber spacer washer was .33 cents.I made out pretty good this time. If it didn't work I was going to do the string and graphite, I think that would work too,what they needed to do was place A packing nut around the shaft and then it could be tightend,if I had A machine shop I think one could be made fairly easily. Thanks Willie, Mark

I got an o ring from Sullivan Supply here in Erie,they had one that was A good fit,but not as thick,so I used A flat rubber washer as well to take up the space an then the flat metal washer.I could not find the brass gasket washer although mine didn't look bad any way.I applied some teflon pipe dope to the brass washer and the threads,put it all together and no leak!! I think the o ring can be had at most places,looked common,the flat rubber washer came from Valu Home Center,looked like A faucet type. Thanks again guy's!!!! Mark

Thanks for the come back guy's,I'm going to try that sullivan supply and see what they can match up,it's in my neck of the woods,also i'm going to try ERIE BEARINGS,they are also an industrial supply and have gaskets,o rings,etc. If nothing else i'll take your advise and fashion something up,i'll let you know how I make out and post what I found. Thanks Mark

Does anyone where to get the o ring and brass gasket,has anyone come across this before? Pics of the linkage shaft/nut,I need the o ring and gasket. Thank Mark M

John;after it sits,pull the valve covers,wiggle the rockers for play,maybe lifter collapsing.when cranking the piston may be just kissing A valve(not closing all the way,or hanging up) Is the noise on A side or center internal Mark

Ficken Wiper did mine,good job,reasonable,quick turn around, A ok!!!!!!!!! Mark

Read one of my old posts on "Build Sheets" Mark M

Welcome;If you have A question or A comment hop in!! Mark M

Robert; sorry to hear about you dad,I know first hand as I am sure there are others that can relate to this.I had A complete blockage of my right coronary artery,long story short I was tinkering on my tractor in the garage,got short on breath,sweating like A stuck hog,jaw pain,neck pain,and severe chest discomfort into my back,felt like I swallowed a brick and was stuck in my chest.Went in the house put on A t shirt lied on the bed thought I was over heated, about 2 minutes later I hopped up went to the bathroom and threw up,hollerd to my wife something is wrong,she called an ambulance,they got me in,opened up the blockage(clot)and my heart stopped.I was paddled 7 times,they got it going, I guess I wasn't ready yet!!! Came out of it with 3 stents and permanent scarring(part of my heart doesn't work or move the doctor said what I had is usually fatal,moral of the story,recognize the signs, act quickly,stay up on meds.and regular check ups!! Do not let him get better and forget about it and go back to old ways.YOUR DAD WILL BE FINE,mine was 5yrs ago,I was just turning 50.A big clot in a bad place was what I was told.Been there and done that,and even dead for A while,and no I did not see A light in a tunnel(I dont remember anything only that 2 hrs went bye).Just thought I would share that with you,your dad will be A OK!!!!!!!!!! Mark M

Bill; on another note does your vacum wiper motor need rebuilt? They dry out inside over the years and can function weak,I had mine redone by Ficken wiper(has a web site) am happy with the work and works good,although it is (old school),works slow on acceleration and even stops when going up A steep hill with my foot into the accelerator(but that is the way I like it)!! A few pics,the vacum connects to the lower portion of the fuel pump,and on the left side of the wiper motor,notice the cable and the "small screw I was telling you about,make sure it slides ok and is adjusted properly.If you prefer An electric motor that is ok too!!!!! Mark M

Bill;sorry I jumped into the post late,I see you have replaced the distributor advance.I would just address one issue at A time.you had an obvious problem with firing/rotor,cap problem.I would put more miles and give A break in on the newly rebuilt motor,the brakes are fairly easy to figure out,sounds like it was improper rod adjustment,the shoes can get hot and hotter and multiply the problem causing drag.Put it off the ground do they free spin after the brakes are applied?put A timing light on the motor,tweak the idle mix and rpm,and run it!! pull A plug after A few hundred miles and see how it is burning.The tranny? The dynaflow will respond sluggish,it is unlike A modern transmission,you had A good rebuilder do it. Also look for the obvious,like water in oil,oil in water,smoking,etc.But just time it properly and run it,out of time can cause over heat and no balls up A hill. Just some thoughts Mark M

Does your vacum advance have a bad diaphram? Is it old? Is the intake gasket leaking?

Is the cable adjusted properly,is the slide(where the small cable attaches) functioning ok? Check and make sure the cable is not moving while engaging the wiper control knob. Mark

Greg;Thoughts and prayers are with you!! Please keep faith,may god bless, Mark

btate;I meant the cable inside is solid,some cable as in motorcycle clutch's are braided and A strand can fray causing it to bind,however the wiper cable "inside" the sheath is solid,I am not sure if the penetrant would get to the cable,it probably would if you sprayed it and then worked small sections between your hands back and forth like breaking A chicken wing(I don't know how else to put it).but that cable would be very very rusty to not move,if it were that bad the rest of the underside of your dash would be toast which I doubt it is not.It needs to slide at the motor/cable connection,I had mine rebuilt by ficken wiper they are on the net,just google it,they did A nice rebuild about $75.00 mine was all dried out inside,works great now,and use it regularly.how is the toggle control? Maybe work it from the motor end in/out using pliers while someone works the toggle,but like I said before that it mould have to be very very rusty,Good luck. Mark

Disconnect it at the motor and try moving the control to make sure it is not the motor slide that is stuck,you can also check the cable routing to see if it is correct so as not to have any kinks in the cable. The cable is fairly short,it would have to be very rusty to get stuck,it is also solid not braided (fraying),and as mike said that screw is tiny!!! Mark

There are alot of factors to consider,how bad does A person want it? As in the case of any antique,it may have personal meaning or sentiment.For someone that needs spare parts,and sell the rest,it would have served A purpose.Interior parts? locked motor,tranny intact? How is the frame,trunk,floor? Stored outside on the ground could wreak havoc.From the pics you have posted it looks more than A parts car,I have seen guys create A car from an oil stain on A garage floor,It doesn't look that bad,again it is A 56 year old car!!!!!! I would say 1800.00 to 2500.00 all day any day!!!! Just my $.02 Mark