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lex

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About lex

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  1. The end of the story? A year ago someone wanted to buy the car from me. It seemed he really loved the old dutch registration (from1964) and the looks of it. After tough negotiations I sold it with the promise, it would be restored and shown to me once ready. Having found out most of the special technical arrangements, which have my interest, it was good it went to somebody who liked bodywork. Recently I saw it being advertised on the internet for more than twice. I cannot find anything on the pics thas has been altered, apart from a box ont the carrier. Well, that's life. If anyone wants
  2. Well Mark and Rooster, I took away the side panels. The front plug in the pushrod chamber is leaking indeed, if only a drop every minute. At the rear the plug has been repaired by a former owner. Around it seems to have been treated with someting like araldite, I suppose. Unfortunately it is now the underside of the rear part of the water jacket that is leaking. I don't know if its cracked, or just rusted through. It is leaking with several drops a minute at two different spots. I think to open both plug holes and treat the bottom of the water jacket with a water resistant coating. I'm not yet
  3. Thanks a lot for the answers, guys! I'll first check the freeze plugs, as Mark suggested. Rooster, I took the plugs out when hot, they all looked about the same, one a bit blacker than the other. And no, generally she has no problems with overheating. Even on hot days the temp keeps in the normal. The radiator core is fairly new. I took a look at the inspection camera, Larry; in the leaflet is nothing about making photographs, which I think a necessary feature. When I know more, I'll tell. All the best from Lex
  4. Hello Reader, My 24-41 Buick has developed a new habit: blowing the whistle, formed bij the threads of the radiator cap. Seemingly the overflow pipe cannot cope with the amount of steam. The sound rises over the driving noise. Of course I checked oil and coolant levels before taking off. I was only doing about 30 mph and after 3m the coolant was boiling. At home I drained the cranckcase of the white coolant/oil mixture and took the valve cover off, so the engine could evaporate as much water as possible. The radiator I drained too, but only a few liters were left. The engine type is 116. Wha
  5. I still have not met a lock that I couldnot adapt to accept a key. So all I need is to know is how to remove the barrel without demolishing it. For a key try : Autosleutels & Slotrevisie - Sleutelprof Luke Cheers, Lex
  6. The build plate is 16 too; it's just a scratch that seems to build an 8. Yes, it's from Cork ; See my thread from July 1st. The body is by Fisher; is this the same as the 24-47 had? From the 1st NL owner I know it had twin folding seats in front of the rear bench. These are now missing.
  7. Good morning to all, Noting serious, but I would like to get the gear lever lock working. Unfortunately I do not have a key. The brass lock is situated at the top of the gear box, where the shift lever is coming in (or out, if you wish). I drilled the 2 brass studs, but still it will not move. Anybody who has done this before?? greetings from Lex
  8. Ah, Jerry, that's a positive mesage. Could you give an answer to my questions, possibly with some pics of the car's side and identification plate? The confusion is caused by the pics and text in the book (see my message of July 2nd). Can you shine a light on that? Greetings from Lex
  9. From Ben in ''spare tyre clamp 24-47 '': Great to hear that your S-G is operational. I have not used my crank handle for months now also since working on mine, although I still have a suspect clutch bearing on the distributor drive that I can't get a replacement for. Answer from Lex, a bit wide going, to keep it interesting for other readers as well: Hallo Ben, I do not understand your clutch bearing problems on the s-g. The driven side bearing of the rotor (next to the freewheel or clutch) in my machine is 6203, a standard DIN bearing; but the s-g migth have been re-engineerd sometime. I
  10. Thanks Ben for the thread. I rather go for the first item, which has a bump that falls in the hole at the carrier and can be padlocked. Just yesterday I fitted a rim+tyre on the carrier, which seems to be a bit oval and gives a tight fit; a clamp is not even necessary, as the luggage carrier keeps the spare in place, should it come loose. I do not understand your clutch bearing problems on the s-g. The driven side bearing of the rotor (next to the freewheel or clutch) in my machine is 6203, a standard DIN bearing; but the s-g migth have been re-engineerd sometime. I cannot remember a clutch b
  11. Right Rod, the glass divider with the 1/4 round side glasses is in a good shape; I like all the varnished wood around it, adding much to the archaic style of the car. Thanks for your answer. Cheers from Lex
  12. Thanks both for the reactions and pics! I found a fitting nut in my nutbin, so a clamp will be made. Cheers from Lex
  13. Hallo Dave, The engine has 6 cilinders, with the 3 water outlets on top of the head (which means a 'master', I have read somewhere on the forum; but I wouldnt be surprised when 'standard and master' only appeared in later years). As you can see from the pics, the engine number is stamped on the identity plate as well as on the engine, so I suppose it to be the originally fitted one. Cheers, Lex
  14. Good morning to all! Here an extract from page 88 of the unknown book, of which I have a few pages made with the old fashioned 'wet' copying process from the 60/70ies. As this varies from the book Pete mentions, is it only the numbers (41 and 47) that are turned around, or should the description underneath each pic be switched too? The tag underneath the rear bench seat states type 41 as well. I really hope that somebody can track something down by the numbers, that would be clearest. Not that it changes anything about the car, but it is interesting. Cheers, Lex
  15. Nope, car has 'normal' rectangular Buick badge.
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