wem

Thanks! From your description I have the wiring reversed. I will switch it around, and purposely short the headlight circuit - it should vibrate unless it's faulty. I'll report back with my findings!

Thanks Ray! I have several wiring diagrams for the car, from the original Lincoln repair manual to the one I got from Narraganset with the wiring before they went south. The best I could tell was that the load was connected to the breaker. My problem just arose as I was reinstalling the radio head. I bumped a lead on the headlight switch and grounded it - thus the breaker kicked out. (I know I should have disconnected the battery first - dah.) The circuit never rectified itself and I had to take off the side panel of the speaker housing, push the points back together, and now the lights works again. Made me think that the wires on the breaker could be reversed. Thanks again!

From what I have read, and the way I drive my '39 is much like driving a truck with a 2 speed read end. Bring the car up to the speed that you would normally shift into the next gear (if there were one), about 35 - 40 mph, pull out the shift knob, then depress the clutch to make the shift. It's designed not to shift until the clutch is depressed. The same is true for downshifting (yes, the car needs to be in motion), but I usually shift out of overdrive around 5 - 10 mph. I'd be interested if anyone out there feels differently about the above, but this technique has so far served me well, knock on wood. Enjoy the car. columbiatwospeedparts.com is wealth of information about the Columbia and it's proper maintenance.

I need help with my 1939 Zephyr circuit breaker. When changing the wiring harness, I didn't keep track of the 2 terminals on the circuit breaker. I'm not sure if the feed from the battery is on the right or left; obviously the load from the lighting circuit will go to the other terminal. Again, this is a 2 terminal breaker, not the 3 like on later models. Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

Thank you for the input. This is the first car that I purchased that wasn't from a rust zone state. (I'm in Wisconsin.) I bought it partially restored from an estate in Nevada 10 years ago and am finally getting to the remainder of the restoration now that I'm retired. The tank mounting bolts came out like it was put together last year! I got the tank out this afternoon. For anyone looking to do this, here's what I found out: The inner fender just above the frame rail on the passenger side has a larger bulge to the outside of the car than the driver's side does. This helps accommodate sliding the tank further to the right of the car to get the tank lip past the frame rail on the left (driver's) side. I still need to use a long pry bar to force the tank as far over as possible (the shorter one I started with didn't give me enough force). Hope this helps! Wally

Has anyone out there removed the fuel tank from a Zephyr? I have the mounting bolts removed and the filler neck and gas line disconnected. I can't slide the tank right or left far enough for the opposite flange to lower past the frame rail. It also bottoms against the trunk floor if I lift it up. I would like to have it reconditioned, so any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Wally

I found what I believe to be the correct spring assembly for the front seat bottom. Does anyone have the dimensions? I realize that the height would be affected by the upholstery. Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you very much for the specs. It will be interesting to find out what my alignment guy finds in comparison to these numbers. By the way, the car only has a little over 26k and shows no signs of wear in any of the suspension parts (except for the possibility of spring fatigue that I mentioned earlier).

Does anyone out there have the alignment specifications for a 1934 Lincoln KB. I'm told that as the front springs flatten with age from the engine weight, the caster changes, which will cause some wheel shimmy (which I have). I was also told that back in the day tapered shims were used between the spring and axle to set the correct caster. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated - especially the specs. Thanks in advance, Wally

I'd REALLY like to find the above mentioned front seat cushion or spring assembly ('35 C1) for my son's upcoming birthday. He currently collecting parts for the restoration. Can anyone at least point me in the right direction??

Just an FYI - there are copies of the manual for a TE3004 (which appears to be very much the same) on Ebay now. The gentleman made copies of his manual. Here's the Ebay link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alternator-generator-starter-tester-manual-TE-3004D-mini-tune-or-otc-/271751107058?hash=item3f45a0d1f2&item=271751107058&vxp=mtr

Does anyone out there have access to a users manual for a Mini Tune 3001 alternator, generator, starter tester? I just bought one with no manual. I'd be happy to pay someone to photocopy theirs. Thanks in advance, Wally

After installing the tank last evening, I just connected everything up and added 12 gallons of gas (no ethanol). The gauge came up above the 10 gallon mark to what would exactly be 12 gallons!! - even without blowing air back into the tank through the fuel line as suggested in the instruction sheet. Success!!

Before my "restoration" of the gauge that we've been discussing over the last week or more, I had added some of the fluid to the glass tube about 5 years ago (so it would at least look like it was functional). It did not fade during that period of time, but the car is covered with a car cover most of the time, with very little light getting at the gauge.

I've had it sitting on the shelf for years, waiting for me to get at this project. I'm pretty sure that I got it from Mac's - http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_mercury_early/fuel-gauge-liquid-red-for-hydrostatic-gauges-ford.html

The fluid is in and the gauge is mounted back in the cluster and the cluster back in the dash (with no side effects). I added enough fluid to bring the glass to the "O" mark with the air line disconnected. I just got my gas tank back from the repair shop and will be hooking up the "sender" and air line over the weekend after I get the tank mounted back in the car. I will post the results and functionality next week.

Since flushing the gauge with the muriatic acid, I flushed it with solvent alchohol, and finally clear water, drying each time by running air through the guage. I can't imagine that there is any acid residue in the gauge at this point. Yes, the fluid is acetylene tetrabromide. I'm not a chemist, I'm a recording engineer. Is there some type of chemical reaction I should be worried about?? My next plan was to add the fluid to the gauge while it's still on the bench. But I intend to let it air-dry until tomorrow first. Stay tuned....

Just tried some muriatic acid I had from pool cleaning, and on the first tried, it flowed right through, brought out dark brown crap, 2nd fill same thing, 3rd fill yellowish liquid. I'm on the forth fil and this time it's almost clear and runs right through, balancing level in glass with level in reservior. A huge thank you - I hope everyone that has a clogged gauge tried this. I also realize that your helpfulness has no doubt caused you to lose some business. Hopefully anyone needing gauge repair will notice who you are and turn to you when they gauge repairs - I know I will.

Thanks, I would not try to unsolder the temp gauge; more of less a comment that the gauge is not removeable from the cluster - sort of odd, even the Ford gauge can be removed from the bezel. I'm getting a little air/ carb cleaner through now after leaving carb cleaner sit in it. Still is a minute amount, I'm guessing the flow should be fairly unrestricted so the red gauge liguid can be pushed into the glass with very little air pressure from the tank tube. The HCl won't etch the glass tube, right?

Yes, both the temp and fuel are mechanical. The temp gauge is fine - operates perfectly. I'm sorry if my post was misleading - it's the fuel gauge tube between the reservoir and glass that is plugged. What type of "mild" acid would you recommend?

Thank you for the kind reply. I have tried cleaning the reservoir/tube with brake clearner, carb cleaner, and last solvent alcohol to no avail (each were suggestions on various blogs). I managed to remove the reservoir , tube and glass from the guage cluster by drilling out the spot welds that held the reservoir bracket to the back of the cluster. Any suggestions for cleaning the tube? That's where the blockage is. The Lincoln uses a "C" shaped glass, so a replacment is not available (straight glass ones are available). I'm not sure what you mean by "charged"..... Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

I'm looking for a front bottom seat cushion or spring assembly for a '35 C1. Thanks! Wally

Has anyone tried to remove the fuel gauge from the gauge cluster on a '34? Interesting that the temperature gauge and fuel gauge seem to be soldered in place. I'm trying to remove the "reservoir" from the brackets on the back of the unit (which seems to be soldered) to clean the tube from it to the glass indicator. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Wally

Hi Richard, My son is restoring a '35 C1 and is in need of a front seat cushion/spring assembly. Would you know which years are compatible and would you have one? Thanks! Wally

Thanks for the tip. I'll give it a try. The vacuum line leads from the manifold to a vacuum booster pump (part of the fuel pump). There could be a leak in the pump also; the windshield wipers don't work, but not sure if it's lack of vacuum or just the wipers themselves. I haven't gotten to them yet.