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About Dantana

  • Birthday 10/10/1975

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  1. I thought this might be of interest if its real. But it turns out that its a scam. https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/cto/d/xq-65-buick-riviera-gs-v8/6310540304.html $11K
  2. I started redoing the veneer on my 65. bought a roll of quartersawn walnut with 3m backing from H&H hardwoods here in San Diego to start. Used a urethane coat to protect and shine it up, it's a semi-gloss.I'll give a lot of credit to anyone who does this as it was really tricky and time-consuming to get it right.The hardest part thus far has been removing the stainless trim around the pieces on the door.I think I am going to leave them and cut the pieces inside of the trim even though the trim might hold it tight a bit better. What do you guys think?
  3. Thanks for the quick response. I hope I don't have to drop the tank but if I do then I do...rats.
  4. Guys - Can I access the sending unit from the trunk on a 1965 Riv? My 1963 shop manual says there is an access through the trunk but I cannot find it on my 65. Thanks.
  5. Thanks guys. I took her around the block and the accelerator pump is shot, all else seems to be good though. ill post more as I go.
  6. I finally got my dream car. An unmolested1965 Riviera with only one repaint. I bought it off of the son of the original owner here in San Diego with protect-o-plate. Working on getting her road worthy since she hasn't been driven since 2009. did the fuel pump and fixed the ignition. Now to rebuild the carb and fix the exhaust. Carpet kit in on its way, package tray is here, looking for the best veneer to but myself and fix. I plan on lowering it, adding Skylark wires, and cleaning up that engine bay. thanks to all the guys on this forum who have helped out every time I posted an issue.
  7. The first pic shows the bracket and the second shows it removed. Once removed it's much easier to get the job done.
  8. I found this 65 in IL for a smoking deal. worth looking into. http://www.autozin.com/1965-buick-riviera---2950--rush-honeoye-falls--179031-atzlisting
  9. A couple more Super clean 1964 http://palmsprings.craigslist.org/cto/5885973198.html Super clean 1966 http://palmsprings.craigslist.org/cto/5815538772.html
  10. A couple in the San Diego area. 1965 http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/cto/5884503757.html 1968 http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/cto/5889603233.html Super nice 1964 http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/cto/5853333000.html
  11. Ok I finally got it in and running. Thank you for your input and I will add one discovery I made(before reading Alinis post which would have saved me time). There is a brace connecting the AC bracket to the block underneath next to the motor mount which once removed allows better access to the fuel pump. The bolts were still a pain getting in but much easier sans bracket.
  12. Thank you for all of the responses. I was able to get it in and it will seat but getting the bolts in has been the issue. My meat cleavers won't fit too well and neither will my lady's small hands. Damn this thing! I guess I will have to remove the brackets. Question though...3 of the bolts also hold the left side of the water neck and water pump, is this thing going to drain all over the place?
  13. Guys, I am half way through replacing the fuel pump on my 65 with AC and it might be the biggest PITA yet. I cannot seem to get the bolts back in the holes and am afraid that I may have to remove the AC bracket to do so. Before I embark on this trail can one of you confirm that this is the only way? If I can do it without removing all of it the please let me know how. Thank you so very much.
  14. Spacers are not a terrible idea if you get quality ones made. Hub-centric spacers are best case scenario and will work great. A 3-5mm spacer hub-centric spacer should do the trick.These guys can make them custom for you. I used to own a custom wheel wholesale company and have used them many many times. https://www.motorsport-tech.com/
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