eulcon

A couple years ago I had the same problem with my '36 1/2 ton. I had about 6 inches of play at the steering wheel which made driving a bit challenging, not to mention dangerous. I had my steering gear box rebuilt by Lares Corporation www.larescorp.com. They did a good job with about a 2 week turn around. From what I remember, it was a little expensive though, but worth it to me. My truck rides down the road nice and straight now. I was haapy with the work they did (not too happy about the price though) Check out their website www.larescorp.com

Been working on the windshield frame ...😲 The bad news is that the bottom portion is rotted much much worse then I originally thought 😥 Any ideas where I can find a new one? (or am I just dreaming again)

Now I get it !! Boy do I feel stupid ... I didn't see the grove because it looks filled in. I started picking where the grove should be, and it's filled with the tab from an old hardened seal that somebody painted over. This all makes sense now!! I guess the next step is to take it off, clean it up and get a seal ... at least I know what I'm looking for now. Thanks again for the help!

Thanks for the help ... I appreciate it. If 2897A-WS is the correct seal, what holds it in place ... Adhesive? Here's what I've got:

Looking for the correct windshield seal for a '36 dodge 1/2 ton crank out windshield ... the one that seals the windshield frame to the cab. Every search I do shows a different seal. My truck's seal is long gone, so I don't have anything to compare it to. Picture of the shape would be a lot of help. Thanks!

Found some ... Thanks anyway.

It's a 3 speed ... Here's some good news ... I decided to go ahead and overhaul it myself I found the parts I need except for the rollers (still need those if anybody knows where I can find some). Anyway ... while I was cleaning up the casing, I found that the case is stamped on the back between the casing and the rear bearing housing. (See pic ) ... I don't know what the first number indicates, but if I'm not mistaken, the T-23 makes it a 1936 Dodge LC ...PERFECT!!

Inside the drive gear is badly worn and very heavily pitted, as are the rollers. I've found new replacement shafts ... All I need now are the rollers. Any idea where I can find some?

Great! ... Thanks again! How do we know for sure that this transmission is from a 1936 LC?

Reg ... Mine looks like yours in the first pic but with the bolts for attaching the E brake. The number on the casing is: 631841 Maybe I'm going about this the wrong way ... Here's the story: In neutral it makes noise like a bad throw out bearing ... I replaced that, no improvement. In first and second gears going down the road it makes ALOT of noise. The noise calms down in third gear. My next thought, front bearing. Bearing looks good. After I got into it, what I did find was that the end of the main shaft where it fits into the input shaft (with the 14 rollers ) is pretty messed up. So ... both the input shaft, rollers, and main shaft are going to need replacing. I agree with jpage ... it's just a gear box and there really isn't too much that can go wrong. The rest of the innards look really good and replacing the two shafts might just solve the problem. (if I can figure out how to get the gears off the shaft). This leads me to a new problem ... Parts! Ebay appears to have a couple shafts ... at the usual high ebay prices of course, but I didn't see any rollers. Does anyone know where I can find the parts I need? At this point I think I might just try to fix it myself ... whats the worst that can happen? For those who haven't figured it out yet, I have no idea what I'm doing ... But I'm learning. I really do appreciate everybody's input ... Thanks!!

Thanks for the reply ... My transmission is in pieces right now ... maybe someone has a pic of a one they can post.

Looking for a good transmission for my 1936 Dodge 1/2 ton ... Any ideas? Thanks!

Could someone please identify this transmission from the casing numbers? Thanks!

Did it! ... I had the pedals off so I slipped them over the bottom ends. To my surprise they went on relatively easy using plenty of dish soap. They stretch a lot further than I thought they would. Thanks again!

Wow ... I've been wondering this for quite a while ... now I know! I guess that makes sense ... The engineers at Dodge must have put a lot of thought into that idea ... lol. Now I have to try to stretch that little piece of rubber over that big pedal I appreciate it! ... Thanks!!

I really hate to ask this question because I know it sounds stupid ... but ... How do these pedal seals go on? Do they stay attached to the pedals and move when the pedals are pushed? Do they seal against the bottom of the floor pan? If so, which side goes against the floor?

Thanks to all for the help ... I really appreciate it. I feel a little more confident that should try to do some adjustments myself. For now, I think I'll follow JFranklins advice and a give it a good cleaning and replace the adjusting screw and go from there. Thanks again!

Thanks for the help ... I really appreciate it. This is obviously not my area of expertise. I'm all for adjusting it if it will save me a buck. I pulled the steering gear box from the car assuming I'd be sending it off for repair. 1) The adjusting screw (pic 1) looks like someone took a pair of vise grips to it (it wasn't me). 2) The screw looks like it's screwed in pretty far already and I can't get it to turn. 3) There is no side to side movement in the sector shaft where it exits the box (that's a good thing). 4) The rest of the steering system is surprisingly tight and the whole problem lies withing the box. 5) Curiosity got the best of me so I took the cover off. 6) The inside (pic 2) is packed with what looks like old wheel bearing grease (is that correct?). Is the brass adjusting screw the only adjustment i can make? Should I replace the adjusting screw and see what happens? Thoughts/comments? Thanks again!

I'm working on my 1936 Dodge 1/2 ton and have gotten to the point where i need to do something about the steering gear box. I have at least 6 inches of play at the steering wheel, which makes driving down the road a little scary (and dangerous). I'm sure this has been touched on in the past but cant find it in the search. Could someone please recommend a place that rebuilds steering gear boxes? Good, fast and cheap would be nice, but I'd settle for just good. Thanks!

DCM emailed me back and they do carry carry clips if anyone's interested. They don't exactly match mine, but they just might work ... think i'll order a couple and try 'em. Thanks for the help!

Anyone know where I can find a couple of these clips / fingers that hold on the hub caps?

Thanks F&J ... I guess I don't have the problem I thought i did ... at least not yet anyway.

I was just told that my 1936 1/2 ton has a post war rear end in it (but that's not the problem) My question is: With the truck in gear, and both rear wheels off the ground, should you be able to turn both wheels without it turning the drive shaft? (or did i mess something up when I was removing the axle nut?)

Looking for a Cigar Lighter for a '56 Buick ... Actually I need the knob /male part. Thanks!

Thanks for the reply ... I finally faced the fact that there was no cheap remedy for the problem, so I went ahead and had it rebuilt by White Post Restorations. If you ever need one rebuilt, I highly recommend them. I sent it to them UPS on a Thursday, and had it back by Monday. Looks like new and works great ... All for the low, low price of 370.00 ... That still seems like a lot to me, but better then anybody else I could find. Thanks again for the reply, I do appreciate it! Keith