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About marc1959

  • Birthday 04/11/1959

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  1. I pulled the mono body off the engine and compared it with the elbowed carb at the main throttle butterfly, it looks exactly the same.....maybe new carburetors were a cheap option when the throttle axle wore out or something....I think this calls for an old-timer with a razor sharp memory who also happened to own a Doodlebug whose carb started playing up around 1952..... This IS keeping me awake at night trying to figure what happened......
  2. Just had word through the old mini bike forum that the Super never had the mono body carb. That was from Don Jackson through a fellow Doodlebugger who was just there. So it was either a replacement (why would you replace instead of rebuild?) or a performance enhancement.
  3. You know it's just like Dorothy, all you have to do is click your heels and it was there all the time...I was so intent on looking at the parts list that I gave up before I saw the diagram on page 11, Mechanical Governor Hook-up--Plate No.8, Fig.B. Fantastic! It looks like I have everything except the item called out as 'Link' but it looks like something I could make.... The carb issue is threefold, the one that was attached to the engine without the elbow is dry and the choke butterfly is badly corroded although it functions, gasket kit and seals at the needles minimum, choke butterfly is probably o.k. but I'd have to remove/replace the 'freeze-plug' to fix it. The elbowed carb that came in the box of parts is even worse for wear, a dedicated strip down and soda blast would see it restored but even more work than the first. The elbowed carb on the donor motor is a runner, so I'm really looking for an excuse to use it without compromising the originality of the engine for when it was built. I'm not sure as I haven't had them side by side looking down the throat but the non-elbow deal may be a bigger carb, I seem to think the throat is smaller in the elbow deal, maybe that was a hop-up/add-on in the world of early '50's Briggs'. In the 25 years or so that I was told this scooter was ridden by the family (late '40's to early '70's) maybe 'Dad' when he was younger a. disconnected the governor. b. put a larger carburetor on it. and c. junked the muffler and put a straight-thru 14" Romex pipe on it! How cool is that! (I'm only speculating btw).....but that must have been the bitchin-est Doodlebug on Paradise Rd! Thanks for the replies Scooter Guy, you've really helped me out here.
  4. Even the Super in the Owners manual has the elbowed carb, but it also has the brake drum and kick start on the left hand side (flipped negative I guess)..... Any tips on what was between the lever on the mechanical governor and the lever on the back of the carb would be a great help, and what all else may have been part of the mechanical governor set up, the Briggs manual just shows different components some for mechanical, some for the air-vane type, but nothing cohesive to re-assemble, especially if you have (like me) parts missing. I bought a donor motor on ebay, it's an NP but not for a D.B., air vane governor, elbowed carb, rope start, I mainly got it for it's attached cylinder shaped fuel tank and seeing it's a runner I thought I could switch the carb out as well. Doesn't help me with the governor though it has some kind of long (4") adjustment screw with a knurled knob on top which 'looks' like it would fit on my motor, for what I do not know. Sometimes it feels like I'm pretty close but then the devil is in the details!
  5. Thanks for the tip on the carb, there are two things that had me asking questions, the first is the nylon 'not spring loaded' choke lever, obviously designed to be turned by hand instead of pulled by the attached lever that exits out the right hand 'skirt'. Also the air filter bolt I have with it is too short by 1/2 an inch, now I say it came with two carbs, the other 'elbow type', the air filter and bolt were in a box of bits.....the filter and bolt fits the 'elbowed' carb..... The only thing pointing to the one-piece being the correct one is that it was at one time painted black, you can still see some remnant of that, which is I believe correct. Thanks for the heads up on the oil filler and drain, I had become aware of that and I actually found a pin-head sized flake of blue on the filler, which I have baggied for color match! I was able to remove the head without damaging the gasket, good thing as I have not been able to find a replacement and gave it a de-coke, it was a little oily, I haven't had this engine running yet but it may be a smoker! I tensioned it all back down correctly at 200 inch lbs (I figured 16ft 8in lbs)) in the correct order from my Briggs manual. Wow, $1500 for the engine is a surprise, I'm sure they did take it home and I understand your view on why. My engine came with a straight pipe, around 6 inches long with a 14" length of flexible pipe braised to it, I'm sure it's electrical 'Romex' and shouldn't be too hard to find. The only thing that is really beating me up is the paint on the front fender, I have sanded and repainted that thing probably 8 times and I cannot get the finish I want, the rest of the frame is beautiful, it's the only thing stopping final assembly!!!!!! 306715......you made me go look! It has the original tag, a little scratched up but I'm leaving it. Thanks!
  6. Thanks for the rundown on the event, anything like that where enthusiasts get together is great in my book, I once flew to the U.K. to attend the Isle of Wight scooter rally but there were in excess of 5,000 vintage Lambretta's and Vespa's, which kind of made it worthwhile (plus I had relatives to visit). I think Webster City could be a stopover on an RV vacation or something if planned right. Any idea on what they were asking for the Briggs engine? I've been working on mine, I have a linkage missing between the mechanical governor and the carburetor and I'm in a quandry over if I have the right carb (I got two with the bike, both different)...anyway here's a couple of pictures, a 'before and after' deal.
  7. I mapquested it and it was a 30 hour drive from here, then I looked at airfare and it was twice as much as a trip to Hawaii......so I didn't go. What was it like, I hope there was a big attendance, was there much of a swapmeet? I have a friend in need of an original engine for a '46...
  8. I ended up leaving that welded on piece as it looks 'useful' and will be hidden by the belt guard anyway. I have finished paint on the frame, replaced the rear wheel bearings and cleaned and re-oiled the felt wick and installed a new rear axle, the old one was quite badly worn. Check out my Resto thread here. 1948 Doodlebug 'Super' resto. - OldMiniBikes.com Forum
  9. My D.B. had spent quite a number of years in a field under an oak tree, luckily it was in California but still everything had a thick crust of rust. Here's my fixture collection, the throttle and brake handles and cables are next, I won't know if I have everything until I begin assembly but the coolest thing is the paperwork that came with this machine, I can assemble from the photo's in the manual and identify the parts I may be missing, YRMW has the parts diagram on line (thanks Don!), but this is very helpful 'in the shop' and all. The biggest help will be the B&S manual, somewhere along the life of this machine someone did a number on the governor, (dang kids, probably grandparents by now!)
  10. Thanks for the 'Good Luck', the tires are on, they fit and will work, I must have had two 'front' tires on this one then, I was talking to the guys at the Coker display at Laguna Seca, they had some really nice stuff there, early 1900's race tires and some awesome whitewall radials with it must have been a 4" stripe. I have spent the weekend wire wheel buffing all my nuts and bolts, a little tricky with the smaller ones, I was under the bench more than once finding spring washers that got flicked out of the needlenose pliers :eek: So I'm back to the finish work, laying on the red aerosol, I also picked up a correct for Doodlebug set of stickers (not waterslide but very good) for the engine, fuel tank and air filter, black spraying is next after a couple pinholes in the gas tank are repaired.
  11. Have a look at this taken at Laguna Seca on Sunday, I wasn't able to talk to the owner unfortunately. Looks like an early frame with the push-pull cutout switch but Super handlebars.....? This is the kind of resto look I'm going for, showing it's age a little but in good condition (I'm painting my engine cowl black though)
  12. Hey it's Friday night and the kids are asleep so I've been having fun with my wheels and tires. I acquired two Coker tires and tubes a couple years ago (moved house since then) and I have my wheels ready to mount the tires on. Have a look what the deal is.... First tire on the front wheel mounted just nice....but would not inflate, new tire, new tube I couldn't figure it out, unbolted the rims and had a look, there was a split in the tube, not as bad as the pic only about an eighth long but nevertheless, new g-d tube... Anyway, got the other (new) tube and all went well, front wheel all shiny and ready. Well that got me thinking I should try and inflate the 63 year old tires, wouldn't you know it they blew up just fine, the tires are hard, mis-shapen and cracked but the tubes are like new....have a look at the pics. Also for those who may have 'borderline' ok tires check the difference between the original General tires and the repops, quite a difference I think....Coker on the left. Oh yeah, check out how the original General valve extension for the rear wheel polished up (first pic) I'm happy!
  13. I seem to be the only one here lately, I hope it's o.k. with everyone me taking up the bandwidth with my personal project. Here's my task this weekend, restoring nuts and bolts....a lot of the nuts are nylocks, I will try and find replacements all fine thread, my favorite place which may be useful to others is McMaster-Carr. I also have a broken wire hook (third in from right looks like an upside down question mark) that I'm not sure can be utilized as I don't know right now where it's meant to go, the thread has broken off an inch from the end, effectively making it an inch shorter than intended, but it looks as though it's meant to be adjustable so we'll see, I guess.
  14. Here's some early progress shots I am doing as much of this resto as I can myself, I know the purists will cringe and others will cry real tears for the fate of this poor little machine but I will do nothing that isn't completely reversible (mainly paint) and will stay as true to the original as I can without going into third world debt..... Thanks again to Gunpilot for the tip on the paint but guess what, Orchard Supply Hardware brand 'Bright Red' enamel in a spray can is a dead-on match, believe me I do color matching of printwork for a living and look at the handlebar clamp in front of the wheels in the photo, it's still original the wheels are newly sprayed. I could have the scooter professionally done but I have two reasons not to (besides being cheap) the first being the side skirts are kind of knocked about (see pic) but they are original and I'd like to keep them that way and I don't want them to look out of place on a candy-dipped paint job, second reason is I like the idea of the dull sheen of 1 part enamel, in this application, look at any original photo even in b&w and you'll see what I mean about the shine, paint just wasn't that shiny in the old days, especially on farm implements I cut a new seat pan today and I am on the hunt for new springs to redo the seat correctly, it's proving difficult to find the right size but the originals I have are still quite strong and I will re-use those if I can't find new ones. Anyway, thanks all for the place to talk about this, any advice/heckling/encouragement gladly accepted.
  15. Here's a reference photo from my first batch, what do you all think?
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