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About coldwar

  • Birthday 08/16/1910

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  1. Been wondering what kind of car this is since i was a little kid. Internet searches tried with no results. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVgI46ZU36k
  2. Every single thing wears; cam lobes, lifter faces, push rods both ends, both ends of the rocker arms and the lower half of the rocker arm shaft hole. Pushrod and rocker arm pushrod seat wear can be severe, assuming no lifters are collapsed the highest % noise generating potential is found in the wear of those two components. The shafts also develop visible wear but I haven't had that factor in on mine. Everything is available, at considerable cost. If you perform a valve job only, this is one instance where you advise the machinist to not equalize valve stem height to shortest corrected height - the extra height from sinking the valves when refaced can benefit you if you are trying to use old stuff. Also, the modern metalbestos head gaskets commonly available today are thick and consume more precious lash potential. Make sure you see visible oiling on the top side at +1200 rpm, very little oiling is visible at idle even when cold. If by some small chance your '49 has plugs in any pushrod side rocker arm oiling holes you might want to consider replacing them. Those were dealer added to reduce long idle tailpipe smoking but were later removed under a recall campaign, yet even today they are still showing up in engines - no good. I agree the zinc concern has merit, but no magic bullet is found to quiet Oldsmobile valvetrain noise in viscosity selection - CW
  3. Your problem is a common occurence for 1949-1950 Oldsmobile owners equipped with AA carb. The AA carb is simply just another zinc die-cast carburetor in use in 2012 with evolving gasoline formulation, with most pump gas now formulated for fuel injected vehicles with electric primary and/or booster fuel pump designs. The accelerator pump is a center actuated diaphragm design (reminding one of later Holley design) located at the bottom of the carb body assembly. This location means any water in the fuel whatsoever will come to rest within the pump cavity, causing even short storage failure of the pump. While this might make the alchohol content in gasoline at first glance appear to be a positive in displacing water in the fuel, unless your carb has been rebuilt with the very latest materials the alchohol attacks the rubber acc pump material most older carbs and kits contain. Further, the level of alchohol attacks the zinc parts even with good plating intact, creating a white residue which is very difficult to completely remove during service. The kit offered by Daytona(?) has the newest materials with proven success with cheap gas, and yields the best result for drivers of these cars. The real solution for you is a rebuild with one of these kits, a rebuild of your mech fuel pump with same modern materials, and a electric booster pump pushing through your existing mech fuel pump (with positively no reason to bypass existing mech fuel pump), hidden aft near the fuel tank. The final important piece is the use of only top tier gasoline, which as a Oldsmobile Aurora owner I discovered (too late) after GM directives mandated for use after the beginning of gas formulation change in 2005: Top Tier Gasoline In our area only Shell has top tier, and only in their premium with V-power. It has the detergent and other additive packages benefiting our use of this fuel with carburetors and mechanical fuel pumps. It smells and looks like gasoline, not sour solvent. Our local group of Oldsmobile guys all run it now, and have seen big mileage improvements, easier hot starting, eliminated corrosion problems, much better looking spark plugs, and better, smoother power and operation especially on the open road. Even on the hottest day this summer, my '52 lights right off, no more endless hot start cranking and swearing, the hot day cranking adding a exponent of use and wear to starter, battery, cables and charging system afterwards. About $5 more per tankful, but radically increased mileage per tank is netted so no real cash loss. Top tier gas also has a useful extended storage life, even with out adding stabilizer. One other thing, engines running the AA start and drive best with the choke set to normally close, even in hot weather. If you don't set it to close, you have to pump your ass off to start and keep it running up to operating temp. We know the AA pump is barely adequate even when 100%, so set the choke to barely but definately close on a warm day, and as you indicated already with heat pipe in good order so it may open. The 'go to' guy for AA is Franklin Graf in Seville Ohio. He rebuilds AA's with the proper kit, tests the rebuild on one of his cars before shipping. Contact him here: 2012 Oldsmobile Car Show Event for 1949 through 1959 Olds Rocket Powered Engines vehicles auto automobile shows in Ohio CW
  4. Don't scrap that trans, and here is why. If it is indeed a 1962 TF, it will have a aluminum case, cable shift for push-button range selection AND the parking brake drum assy on output shaft, or provision for it if missing. This is a one year only transmission, and hard to find if you need it or want it. I say 'want' because this one year transmission has no internal parking pawl meaning you set to neutral, stop engine and set this drum parking brake with foot pedal to hold car in parked position. It was and is a terrible system with drivers of these cars later customarily carrying chocks on the chance the car would park on a incline. I rebuilt one two years ago, and in doing so found I had to go through this park brake, cables and pedal assy as part of the job. Terrible!, and terrible to use as a driver. These Chryslers had a park detent in 1961, and again in 1963! CW
  5. Dexron is correct. Access is on passengers side floor, on side of hump - CW
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