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Bill Miller

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Everything posted by Bill Miller

  1. Check out the early V-8 Cadillac group, it's a yahoo group, for advice.
  2. Leather can be ordered from Kelleen Leather (he advertises in the CCCA bulletin) or from Miamicorp in Cincinnati (they have a website at miamicorp.com). I can vouch for the quality of the latter at reasonable prices. Check out youtube to try to find an exemplar roadster so you can see what the seat pattern looked like. I think it was the same for both roadsters and tourers, i.e. a button tufted style. If not already a member, be sure to join the DB Club and you can get the names and contact info for other owners of '17 roadsters to assist you with more specific information.
  3. We are fortunate here in Louisville to have Dave Taylor's House of Color which specializes in pinstriping by hand. They do the best work I've seen anywhere, I recommend them. I had both our Bentley and our 25/30 hand-striped some years ago and watched them do it, which made them a little nervous. The Bentley took a 1/16th inch (!) stripe in dark gray over white paint, all freehand and not a single correction necessary. The 25/30 I had done in a 1/8th inch burgundy stripe over pale yellow paint in order to accentuate the body reveal line we were putting it on (showed up better than a really
  4. Pretty car. I don't mean to belittle appraisers but I see that the appraisal is based on an average of a variety of "asking prices" for similar cars. People can ask anything for a car but the real value is what is paid for the car. Your roadster looks like it's in a #3 condition and according to the 3rd edition of Kimes & Clark's American Cars, the value is something on the order of $6,100 for the model EH (Special Six) roadster.
  5. 90% of the work and cost of new paint is in the preparation. Do as much as you can of the dollying, filling, and sanding and even priming yourself and save some money. I would worry more about the mechanicals than the cosmetics. You mention a carb cleaning being necessary. If it's not running right that's usually not the problem. Check out the plugs, plug wires, points and timing first, then the coil and only after you are sure the electrics are working right then worry about the carb. Also make sure you are running fresh fuel. I don't think you are over your head, just stick with it an
  6. David, Some years ago Joe Smith at D&D in Covington OH found me some excellent leather at reasonable cost from Miami Leather in Cincinnati. Don't know if they are still around or not.
  7. I have a number of different cars all with different size tires and I drive them all a lot. I can't tell you how much money I've spent on rubber over the years but it's a lot. From my perspective all of the modern repro tires I've bought will drive well if you keep them properly inflated and don't let them sit too long in one spot without moving the car. I have cars with all of the labels you mention except for Excelsior and Michelin (except for modern iron) so I can't say anything good or bad about them. They are all going to be made from modern materials using original molds so what you
  8. Great old car with the diamond-shaped rear window and the square-ish engine compartment and ballooned top. There were literally hundreds of makes of cars back then but the shape of the front body around the motor makes me think it's a Winton. However the rear window doesn't seem right. An RCH is maybe a better call.
  9. I don't know what sort of seals your water pump uses on the '39, but I had a leak on my '15 DB water pump which tightening of the gland nuts on either end would not stop. It turned out the old string-type seals were shot so I just bought several feet of new string seal and wound it on myself, retightened the nuts (don't over-do it) and all is well. You can't get this stuff from PEP Boys or NAPA, etc. They just look at you like you are crazy. If this is what you use you can get it in several thicknesses from Restoration Supply by the foot and also I think from Tom and Cindy Myers.
  10. Mine tend to yellow rather than turn brown. After cleaning as best you can, try using white tennis shoe dressing from a running shoe store if they don't clean up well enough.
  11. Normally your coolant level should be to the level of the top radiator hose. If you overfill above this you will have coolant leakage out the overflow pipe. There will also be some coolant loss in normal driving in any open non-pressurized system and don't worry too much about that if it's not much, just keep topping up to the hose level. You say you lose about a 1/2 can of coolant over 40 miles but you don't say how big the can is. How much volume are you actually losing? If it's a lot you may have just a hose leak or a loose clamp (double check them all) rather than something more serio
  12. Dan, I found the info packet from the 2010 VMCCA Central Nickel Age tour in IN-OH-MI. The tour directors were Rich and Jan Caloia, 481 Streamview Ct., Rochester Hills, MI 48309 phone 248-651-7843 email janrich@sprintmail.com . They put on a great tour and I'm sure they would be able to provide you with valuable guidance.
  13. So what ever happened with this car? I hate it when folks abandon a posting.
  14. Depends on what age range you are looking for. You should be concerned with ease of repair (i.e. simplicity of design and construction) and availability of parts. You can't get much more reliable than a Model T. It's simple, easy to work on and parts are available everywhere around the globe. Also there are always people on a tour who can fix what you can't if it fails to proceed. Of course, it's slow and not a car for everyone, but from a reliability and ease of repair standpoint it can't be beat. For something more modern, my vote would be a circa '41 Cadillac with a manual gearbox.
  15. I would try advertising for one in the Rolls-Royce section or even the CCCA section. Oops, there is no R-R section as such here, so try the CCCA forum. The Springfield Silver Ghosts and Phantom-I's used the Klaxon and you might find someone who has parts or a spare horn. The horns themselves (really a noisemaker and not a true horn) will be specific for the R-R cars but the internal parts will be pretty much interchangeable. Also try Steve Littin near Cleveland, Butch Murphy (also Cleveland), Tim Jayne near Philadelphia, Dick Frawley also near Philadelphia, and Pierce Reid in Stowe VT. The
  16. My wife and I were on one of the VMCCA Central Nickel Age Region tours in 2010 based in Fremont, IN near the borders of both Ohio and Michigan, Amish and Mennonite country. It was a hub tour which we prefer. Had a great time and the tour was very well planned and organized. I suggest you might want to talk to the folks who ran that tour and I'll locate the tour information packet which I saved and send the contact info to you. There was a wide variety of cars in attendance ('12 through '27) including a lot of Model T's, a couple of Essex examples, as well as Overland, Cadillac, Buick, Rolls
  17. Francisco, The way to approach a purchase from a financial (unemotional) standpoint is to first determine what the car you are looking at is worth fully restored. This DB sedan is probably worth FULLY restored at auction something like $18-22K. Maybe another few thousand if it is best of show concours quality. That's just what production 4-door closed cars of this era that are non-CCCA eligible are going for in general. From this figure subtract what it's going to cost to restore, including transportation, painting, mechanical work, plating, trimming, wiring and replacement of any missing
  18. Rick, I just sent you a private message. Here's a photo of our '15 DB taken 2 weeks after I bought it when I took it to the DB Club Moline IL meet.
  19. Obviously, the easiest and cheapest thing to do is to tow it to the nearest truck stop and weigh the coupled unit on the certified scales (under $9), subtract the weight of the tow vehicle, and there you have it. Every time I buy a new old car I pull it into our enclosed trailer and do the same thing in order to figure where to place the car in the trailer so the tongue weight is correct on the hitch ball. I don't know your location but there ought to be a truck stop within driving distance.
  20. Those folks who have said that cost was the primary reason to change from magneto to coil/distributor are correct. Also it is my understanding that the magneto produces a longer-lasting and hotter spark than does the coil/distributor arrangement. A magneto simply functions as a coil and distributor combined and is very easy to time, even a simpleton like me can do it in a few minutes since it's a lot less critical and more forgiving than the points breaking in a distributor. The mags work without difficulty for much longer than the coil/distributor and one reader mentioned correctly that th
  21. If you ask a hundred people you are going to get a hundred different lists. I like Dave@Moon's selections but I would delete the Mini's. Personally my list would include any of the 55-56 Corvettes, the mid-50's Continental (later Lincoln Continental) Mark II, the Studebaker Avanti R-2, 59 Cadillac Eldorado convertible, an early 60's Austin Healey 3000, the 54 Buick Skylark convertible, the 55-56 Thunderbird (for some reason I just don't like the '57), the 64 Pontiac GTO, and your 69 Camaro SS in your original list. However, my favorite on the list would be the Series I Jaguar E-Type, which
  22. I have had to chuckle at many of the responses to this post. It seems to have resonated with quite a few forum-followers. It also makes me appreciate being married to my wife of 39 years who dearly loves the hobby. She likes art, as in impressionist paintings in museums and Michelangelo sculptures. She views antique cars as rolling art and jumps at any chance to be around them. We have a routine of yearly going to Amelia Island for the Concours in March, then doing a tour with one of the clubs in May, then a couple of Concours events during the summer, then the local Louisville Concours in
  23. Peter, OK, now I know what you are talking about, the "hold down" clamps that tighten down and hold the spares in place above the fender wells. A few years before his death, John DeCampi in New Hampshire was selling these and they were being made I think by Pierce Reid in Vermont. They were the dish-shaped ones without the flat surface with the R-R badge which sounds like what you have. I think the flat disc with the R-R logo should be reproducible by a foundry (at a price!) and then affixed to the cups on the ones you have. You might try Rudy again or Pierce may have some ideas. Also, St
  24. Peter, here's a photo of the wheel discs from LMARR I was referring to above on our 1937 Gurney Nutting 25/30. Not sure if this is what you were asking about. Also several other sources of parts occur to me. Try Steve Litten or Butch Murphy (both in Ohio) and maybe Rudy Rosales as well (also in OH), or maybe Dick Frawley and Tim Jayne (both in PA) and Pierce Reid in Stowe VT. With the exception of Rudy Rosales, they all have repair/restoration shops and maybe have the parts you need or know of somebody who may have them.
  25. Peter, I know 3 people who have Regents (sequentially numbered, no less) who may have parts. They are Jon Leimkuehler in Pittsburgh, Henry Hensley in Houston, and Ned Numata in Maui and Tokyo. You can get their contact info through the RROC directory. I'm not sure there is such a thing as a correct trunk but maybe they know better. If you are referring to the aluminum wheel disc covers as spare tire discs, contact Mike Rabin at LMARR in California, he makes them. They are not cheap but they look great.
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