Bill Miller

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About Bill Miller

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  • Birthday 03/12/1949

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  1. Check out the early V-8 Cadillac group, it's a yahoo group, for advice.
  2. Leather can be ordered from Kelleen Leather (he advertises in the CCCA bulletin) or from Miamicorp in Cincinnati (they have a website at miamicorp.com). I can vouch for the quality of the latter at reasonable prices. Check out youtube to try to find an exemplar roadster so you can see what the seat pattern looked like. I think it was the same for both roadsters and tourers, i.e. a button tufted style. If not already a member, be sure to join the DB Club and you can get the names and contact info for other owners of '17 roadsters to assist you with more specific information.
  3. We are fortunate here in Louisville to have Dave Taylor's House of Color which specializes in pinstriping by hand. They do the best work I've seen anywhere, I recommend them. I had both our Bentley and our 25/30 hand-striped some years ago and watched them do it, which made them a little nervous. The Bentley took a 1/16th inch (!) stripe in dark gray over white paint, all freehand and not a single correction necessary. The 25/30 I had done in a 1/8th inch burgundy stripe over pale yellow paint in order to accentuate the body reveal line we were putting it on (showed up better than a really narrow stripe) and there was only one tail end I had corrected while I watched, simple to do while the striping enamel was still wet. Note those long brush sable hairs that are able to load a lot of paint on the brush for those smooth rounded areas. Neat.
  4. Pretty car. I don't mean to belittle appraisers but I see that the appraisal is based on an average of a variety of "asking prices" for similar cars. People can ask anything for a car but the real value is what is paid for the car. Your roadster looks like it's in a #3 condition and according to the 3rd edition of Kimes & Clark's American Cars, the value is something on the order of $6,100 for the model EH (Special Six) roadster.
  5. 90% of the work and cost of new paint is in the preparation. Do as much as you can of the dollying, filling, and sanding and even priming yourself and save some money. I would worry more about the mechanicals than the cosmetics. You mention a carb cleaning being necessary. If it's not running right that's usually not the problem. Check out the plugs, plug wires, points and timing first, then the coil and only after you are sure the electrics are working right then worry about the carb. Also make sure you are running fresh fuel. I don't think you are over your head, just stick with it and work out one thing at a time. Just don't catch the thing on fire and you'll be alright. Also try using Maas on the chrome to clean it up. You can buy it at most good hardware stores. Best of luck.
  6. David, Some years ago Joe Smith at D&D in Covington OH found me some excellent leather at reasonable cost from Miami Leather in Cincinnati. Don't know if they are still around or not.
  7. I have a number of different cars all with different size tires and I drive them all a lot. I can't tell you how much money I've spent on rubber over the years but it's a lot. From my perspective all of the modern repro tires I've bought will drive well if you keep them properly inflated and don't let them sit too long in one spot without moving the car. I have cars with all of the labels you mention except for Excelsior and Michelin (except for modern iron) so I can't say anything good or bad about them. They are all going to be made from modern materials using original molds so what you are really talking about is looks and tread design related to handling. At the speeds we should drive these old cars I don't see much difference. When buying used or older tires the problem arises with age. All tires produced currently have a date code on them and I wouldn't buy a used or OEM tire that was more than 5 or 6 years old because the rubber tends to become brittle with age and disuse and exposure to air and sunlight. Driving on a tire actually helps keep the tire "young" by releasing the oils in the rubber and helps keep the rubber pliable. Another equally important thing is to always get new flaps and tubes when you put on new tires. The old ones get prone to failure with age just like the tires. Yeah, it adds to the cost but it's your life on the line so go don't skimp. Good luck.
  8. Great old car with the diamond-shaped rear window and the square-ish engine compartment and ballooned top. There were literally hundreds of makes of cars back then but the shape of the front body around the motor makes me think it's a Winton. However the rear window doesn't seem right. An RCH is maybe a better call.
  9. I don't know what sort of seals your water pump uses on the '39, but I had a leak on my '15 DB water pump which tightening of the gland nuts on either end would not stop. It turned out the old string-type seals were shot so I just bought several feet of new string seal and wound it on myself, retightened the nuts (don't over-do it) and all is well. You can't get this stuff from PEP Boys or NAPA, etc. They just look at you like you are crazy. If this is what you use you can get it in several thicknesses from Restoration Supply by the foot and also I think from Tom and Cindy Myers.
  10. Mine tend to yellow rather than turn brown. After cleaning as best you can, try using white tennis shoe dressing from a running shoe store if they don't clean up well enough.
  11. Normally your coolant level should be to the level of the top radiator hose. If you overfill above this you will have coolant leakage out the overflow pipe. There will also be some coolant loss in normal driving in any open non-pressurized system and don't worry too much about that if it's not much, just keep topping up to the hose level. You say you lose about a 1/2 can of coolant over 40 miles but you don't say how big the can is. How much volume are you actually losing? If it's a lot you may have just a hose leak or a loose clamp (double check them all) rather than something more serious like a radiator leak. See if there's a water pump leak which should be a fairly easy fix.
  12. Dan, I found the info packet from the 2010 VMCCA Central Nickel Age tour in IN-OH-MI. The tour directors were Rich and Jan Caloia, 481 Streamview Ct., Rochester Hills, MI 48309 phone 248-651-7843 email janrich@sprintmail.com . They put on a great tour and I'm sure they would be able to provide you with valuable guidance.
  13. So what ever happened with this car? I hate it when folks abandon a posting.
  14. Depends on what age range you are looking for. You should be concerned with ease of repair (i.e. simplicity of design and construction) and availability of parts. You can't get much more reliable than a Model T. It's simple, easy to work on and parts are available everywhere around the globe. Also there are always people on a tour who can fix what you can't if it fails to proceed. Of course, it's slow and not a car for everyone, but from a reliability and ease of repair standpoint it can't be beat. For something more modern, my vote would be a circa '41 Cadillac with a manual gearbox. Same deal for parts availability and the motor is pretty bulletproof. And it rides like modern iron. For something sporty I would select any Corvette from '56 through '67. You can take them apart with hand tools and everybody has parts. I would stay away from exotics and low-production vehicles if reliability is the main issue.
  15. I would try advertising for one in the Rolls-Royce section or even the CCCA section. Oops, there is no R-R section as such here, so try the CCCA forum. The Springfield Silver Ghosts and Phantom-I's used the Klaxon and you might find someone who has parts or a spare horn. The horns themselves (really a noisemaker and not a true horn) will be specific for the R-R cars but the internal parts will be pretty much interchangeable. Also try Steve Littin near Cleveland, Butch Murphy (also Cleveland), Tim Jayne near Philadelphia, Dick Frawley also near Philadelphia, and Pierce Reid in Stowe VT. They each have restoration and mechanical shops that specialize in the Ghosts and Phantoms and may have the parts or might be able to make what you need or steer you in the right direction. Their contact info should be available with an online search or through the RROC.org site.