amigo

Yea im guessing he put the raised dimples to keep the bottom of the battery off the bottom of the box . But as you know it doesn't take long of some 2012 changes or what people consider improvements to really change a car . A person keeps doing that and when hes done you look back at the car and some thing is wrong but you just cant put your finger on it

Maybe I can find a piece of asbestos from some law firm that has closed a case against an asbestos company that killed a couple 100 folks dont think they would have any future use for it

I was thinking of putting some thing their so the heat doesn't kill the spring lever that raises the choke maybe a pice of tin

From the beads on the bottom yours might have been original and the sides rusted out so some one pealed them off "1936 d2 " is right what he is showing is an original box and I have 3 cars with the same box. Ill bet your guy can break out 2 end panels and spot weld them to the box you have ant it would look as the original 1936 box

I have an auto choke on my 1936 dodge I saw an auto choke for sale on e bay and it had what looked like an asbestos pad for a gasket . I don't have anything between the heat sensor and the manifold what goes their ? I would like to know

I was being generous usually the wife sells an unfinished car and 30,000. dollars of tools and unused parts for about 500 bucks . The horn button listed is a great part with the back also . The seller should split the part sell the back for 50 bucks and the button for 60 bucks Its a deal for some one looking for a horn button.

That Thing is on ebay for 99 bucks I use a formula when I need a new part its some thing like this Cost x difficulty x the quality of the part to locate divided by my current savings and how old I want be when I finish the car . When it all computes I will over pay about 27% for a good part and work harder at work or skip a few beer's . The way I see it a good deal on a good complete horn button would be about 65 bucks with shipping 75 then powder coat 20 bucks so ur under a hundred . But a good button dosent come up often so its about 30 bucks two much. The guys that finish their car then die 6 months later will hold out for another cheaper button

You need to contact that guy and see if he would take less it looks like a good button just needs to be powder coated then sanded out . be shure and remove the back their is only 3 tabs

Check this out This is the Chrysler banjo wheel the horn button is the same size as teh dodge . I sold the air flow horn button for 35 bucks its smaller than the dodge but has an additional chrome ring .http://forums.aaca.org/f147/1936-chrysler-airstream-c7-owners-295225-2.html

No it was one I had but I restored it , I do have another but it has a ding in the outer ring and wont sand out right , Ive seen them on eBay as long as their smooth and the stamped Ram and lines are their then you can powder coat it and sand out the ram and the rings and lines then rebuff the powder coat

I myself belive that 1936 airflow wheel is the coolest banjo wheel of that era

LOL I would be lying if I told ya that was the original but It is an air flow It has a smaller horn hole but a chrome ring at the point where the Dodge horn button goes so It was ground to that part and fits great. The Air flow has a little larger splines shaft where the Dodge has a tapered shaft with a key way. I took my dodge steering wheel cut off the spokes ground off the old plastic and ended up with a hub that I took to my machinist he turned it then bore out the airflow wheel and taped it in pined it and welded it he did a great job you cant even tell it realy was near perfect work on his part. I belive Chrysler air stream offered the same wheel and their horn button is the same as the dodge. You can find horn buttons on the e bay but they cant have any dings so when you have it powder coated you need the high spots to stand up so they can be sanded out and polished

Thanks man

I just refinished my horn button and I had the whole thing powder coated then wet sanded the high ares with 360 grit ,1000grit then 2000 grit and buffed it out and im real happy with the way it came out . Ill try and post a pic here if i cant it will be in my pic folder under my profile.

I went through this same problem along with the price so I paid a machinist to turn to bezel's out of a 3 inch x 1/2 thick aluminum pipe with a small set screw on the inside and they came out great cost me 100 bucks each

YIPEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I DO HAVE LIFT OFF. I put the pump I received from Kanter auto parts today. Once again the part was great original and rebuilt to new condition. The cover at the bottom of the pump looks cool the fasteners are the original slotted head type and best of all it works great and runs great. Turns out the 41 must have a different cam motion the arm looks the same but this new pump from kanter is great. Thanks for all the help ill post a pic of the pump this weekend

Pictures would help if you can find the time

tHANKS A BUNCH Yea it is crazy the thing ran great good pick up the auto choak worked great it was cool how it would idle down after warming , drove fine thanks for the help

Man thanks for the tip it realy makes sence I purchsed an NSO flex line from ebay I tryed a small tank in case any gas lines had some leak but the flex hose was still in play . I blew through the flex hose with the tempoary hose from the small tank it was clear but it could still be porous. Its frustrating becuase i have such good spark and it ran so well befor

Imgessing its the wrong pump and have ordered a new one for a 1936 from kanter but they also said their was 2 different pumps for that year, the thing ran great for a wile the diagram was fine it sucked still has to be some thing with the lever. They gave me another 41 plymouth pump but it still didn't work.Kanters came in the mail today and we will see. The 41 also matched up to the one that was on their but not to say that one was wrong

Man this is a real perplexing problem. Ive done all that and then some .If its imposable to be some thing wrong with the cam then Im going to get a pump from Kanter and try that . The pump is from the same engine but from a book that would only go back to 1941 and a Plymouth . Its the second one ive tried the first was great and ran so great I though the diagram must be messed up so they ordered another . The thing matched up to the original great . Im going to have to take off the one on my original car and realy compare Ill do that tomarrow and c where that gets me

The first pump was the one on the motor when I got it , the second was a new pump with about 10 houres on it , this is the third pump

Man I did that just replaced the pump and it had good suction and pressure coming out the carb side. The thing runs good on the prime

Its offical the pump isent pumping I hooked up a small tank to the fuel side of the pump and nothing some thing must be wrong with the cam

Man no sooner than I brag on how great my fuel pump works the system takes a crap. This thing ran great smooth then it stopped getting gas. The tank is low but still has gas I removed the fuel pump and undid the gas line at the tank and i could blow through the line. I put a new pump on and primed the bowl and nothing priming the carb works it runs the gas out and thats it. This weekend ill try and set up a gas can and run a line from the pump and see what happens . I WILL NOT PUSS OUT AND Put AN ELECTRIC PUMP on this car . My real question could it be the cam or some thing is wrong inside the motor ?:confused: This thing ran like a sewing machine and just quit like it ran out of gas