amigo

Do you still have the male part of the socket that was on the old harness ? If you did not use them I would like to buy one please let me know thanks .Rick

<dl class="userinfo_extra" style="margin: 5px 0px; float: left; width: 180px; height: auto !important;"><dt style="margin: 0px 10px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; float: left; min-width: 60px; width: auto !important;">Join Date</dt><dd style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 3px;">Oct 2010</dd><dt style="margin: 0px 10px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; float: left; min-width: 60px; width: auto !important;">Location</dt><dd style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 3px;">san antonio tx</dd><dt style="margin: 0px 10px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; float: left; min-width: 60px; width: auto !important;">Posts</dt><dd style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 3px;">133</dd></dl> [h=2]Re: need 1936 dodge windshield crank blade[/h] Yes I did thanks for checking , I do need a male end socket that plugs into the headlight and connects to the wiring harness.

Yes I did thanks for checking , I do need a male end socket that plugs into the headlight and connects to the wiring harness.

What kind of generator is that ?

This fourm gets an F on how to start a new thread no doubt

. I'm looking for the small male plug that solders onto the headlight harness

I'm looking for a 1936 - 1937 male side socket that solders on to the wiring harness that plugs into head light housing. I have one but also lost one .im hoping some one retired their headlights and has one left over . Man e bay came thru I now have my coupling can't be happier , thanks to every one that took any time sorting thru their junk bin

https://www.flickr.com/photos/57892007@N00/sets/72157637287522483/

I say save yourself time and grief and call the people at Kanter auto parts , they will sell you a rebuilt carb that fits your 1936 dodge. They do not rebuild them until it's ordered so they don't sit on the shelf and dry out .. I got mine their and it's been great just bolted it on and runs like a champ

The molasses thing works like you wouldn't believe just a slow proses but I'm sure most people are like me and has things to do wile you wait. The block on the out side gives you the right angle on the trim and puts it in line with the trim because of the curved lip . I forgot to mention when your putting it back on to pull out on the trim as it is catching the inside this helps spread the trim enough to slip down.

No problem , its always amazes me how things were done back then the angle of the lip actually is what holds the ring in place if the housing was straight it would tend to slide off and the ring would not sit tight on the housing. when it was snapping in place the last 3 inches you could feel the ring pull itself in place

To remove the trim ring you first need to soak the headlight bucket in a mixture of 1part molasses to 10 parts water for about 15 days . This will dissolve any rust what so ever . Then with a small maple block ( I recommend maple because it's Denise and won't absorb the shock of the mallet ) then with the block at a slight angle lightly tap around the whole ring about 3 times then starting at the split end start taping a little harder working the ring off. Mine came off quite easy doing this .to replace the ring I started at the split at the bottom work it on by hand then used the round handle of the mallet to rub the ring into place .

Maybe it was some kind of dealer fix to ground the headlamp I saw it some where else , I have original sockets assembled and it looks in pretty good shape . I did get a harness from road island and it really is great. Biggest accomplishment so far on the head liters was getting the trim ring off without damaging it and it's back on after paint ,

How's it been going ? I'm getting closer on my project I had a quick question on the headlight bolt with the ground wire soldered to it where do it connect ? I have the bolts with just 1 inch of wire where it's been cut I'm going to add some wire but where do it ground at ? The slots on the front grill around the front grill opening is heir a clip for the grill are these just to catch the Crome trim pice ?

To Maine reasons I like the epoxy is 1. I'm lazy and 2. I'm about a negative 3 on a 1-10 scale for finishing any thing . Just about all the new boats use epoxy an I can build up 3 layers of epoxy with a screed short haired brush on my panels then turn it over to the body guy that's a real pro. The finish will cost more but stay good for 10 years easy

How often did the fords owner manual recommend a recital ? Most were every 6months

No Kidding you think you were trying to hack into the Pentagon

It really dose come down to personal preference

I built a guilmont kayak before 90 % are epoxy covered glass cloth clear then varnished some do the clear coat but it's pretty new here is a link those guys do some net stuff you need to look at the pictures and go to their building blog http://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/guillemot/

I totally disagree the epoxy will bring the wood grain out more than the varnish then the uv protection of the clear coat saves the finish and the wood these products have been tested in a very competitive market and will out out last and varnish finish their was a town and country at hershey done with this finish and it was the best wood their. 3 coats of epoxy and 3 of the automotive clear coat is better and will last longer than 15 coats of varnish just try it on a small pice of wood you really want a finish go 6 and 6 coats and you can do this with less time than 15 coats of varnish