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Posts posted by amigo

  1. Amigo,


    My hat is off to you, sir. That looks like a flawless job, wow!


    I am contemplating a woodie project. I have an extra 28 Buick chassis and cowl. I've been thinking of building a woodie body for it. Something like if it had been converted in the mid-thirties. How long did this project it take you?



    . 5 years with a lot of help
  2. Dave, do you know what make and size the tyres are on that car ?

    Great looking woodie.....I've always admired those.

    . I'm the guy that built the car , with lots of input from this fourm. The chassis is all orginal I moved the tail lights to the fenders like they did the coups the headlights are from a 37 .
  3. I purchased my harness from RI wiring and am very happy. I used bullet connecters inside the headlight buckets for the unseen last connections, and am pleased with the results.

    Do you still have the male part of the socket that was on the old harness ? If you did not use them I would like to buy one please let me know thanks .Rick

  4. <dl class="userinfo_extra" style="margin: 5px 0px; float: left; width: 180px; height: auto !important;"><dt style="margin: 0px 10px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; float: left; min-width: 60px; width: auto !important;">Join Date</dt><dd style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 3px;">Oct 2010</dd><dt style="margin: 0px 10px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; float: left; min-width: 60px; width: auto !important;">Location</dt><dd style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 3px;">san antonio tx</dd><dt style="margin: 0px 10px 0px 0px; padding: 0px; float: left; min-width: 60px; width: auto !important;">Posts</dt><dd style="margin: 0px; padding: 0px 0px 3px;">133</dd></dl>

    [h=2]Re: need 1936 dodge windshield crank blade[/h]

    Yes I did thanks for checking , I do need a male end socket that plugs into the headlight and connects to the wiring harness.
  5. Reference book I have has the same Engine Numbers listed for '36 D2 that keiser31 spoke of. The casting number on my engine is as in the photo attached. The casting number really doesn't do much for you. (The most important number for you is the Serial Number on the right front "A" pillar).

    The car's original Engine Number is stamped on the frame also - but not at all easy to get to! :rolleyes:

    Also - your casting number has the -6 . Don't know why the casting numbers change a bit. The block casting number shown on the photo below is from an engine with an ID# of D2-97_ _ _ and the casting number ends with a -3. Hmmm... :confused:

    What kind of generator is that ?

  6. Hello, thank you for the reply. I would love to start a new thread, however, I am new to this forum and I do not see the option anywhere to do so. I am supposed to be able to see a box with a +create a new post. I do not have that.

    This fourm gets an F on how to start a new thread no doubt

  7. I'm looking for a 1936 - 1937 male side socket that solders on to the wiring harness that plugs into head light housing. I have one but also lost one .im hoping some one retired their headlights and has one left over . Man e bay came thru I now have my coupling can't be happier , thanks to every one that took any time sorting thru their junk bin

  8. 1936 Dodge D2 question here:

    My wife's grandpa has a '36 D2 that has been sitting in his garage for 10 years. He says, and my father in law confirmed, it ran well when they parked it, but the carburetor was acting up so they took it off and gave it to a mechanic friend to rebuild. 10 years later there is a rebuilt carb sitting in the back seat. It's a Ball & Ball C 0-370 5. Is the the correct carb (or at least compatible)? If this is not an original series carb, 1. what/when is the carb from, and 2. what was the original carburetor?

    I didn't think to take

    Considering the car has been sitting for 10 years, what would we need to do to get it in drivable condition?

    I say save yourself time and grief and call the people at Kanter auto parts , they will sell you a rebuilt carb that fits your 1936 dodge. They do not rebuild them until it's ordered so they don't sit on the shelf and dry out .. I got mine their and it's been great just bolted it on and runs like a champ

  9. Thanks for the tutorial on pulling off the rims. It's all so easy once somebody figures it out. Rust is the biggest culprit here, I turned a perfect rim into a pretzel by not doing the molasses thing. Like my Dad used to say, "Too early old, too late smart." Thanks very much for sharing this Amigo!

    The molasses thing works like you wouldn't believe just a slow proses but I'm sure most people are like me and has things to do wile you wait. The block on the out side gives you the right angle on the trim and puts it in line with the trim because of the curved lip . I forgot to mention when your putting it back on to pull out on the trim as it is catching the inside this helps spread the trim enough to slip down.

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