jcmiller

You guys are killing me! I'm trying to celebrate getting it to spin freely and you're giving me new tasks! It looks worse in the pictures than in reality. Those were taken right after the head came off. Most of that rusty looking stuff was powdery and wiped right off. I'll post more pics this weekend. Thanks for the details on the oiling. I've not removed the pan at this point. It's not easily done with my current setup. For now, I'm going to try to get those three valves moving and think about whether to remove any of them for closer inspection and possible replacement.

I took the head off. I have three sticky valves. I was able to gently tap down two of them. The third has not yet responded to light tapping. I hosed it down with PB Blaster and will let it soak for a while and try again later. The two that went down stay in the up position when I turn the engine, which now turns freely (yeah!!). Being a novice, I'm not sure how to read the condition of the engine. But to me the pistons and cylinder walls look really good (no wear lip). The valves are a mixed bag. I've attached a few pictures of the best and the worst of what I see. The worst piston/valve combo matches the worst cylinder head recess. Are valve stems lubricated from the bottom during normal operation? Rusty - Can you provide any more details on how you would apply pressurized oil? Is there a special tool for that? Thanks for the help folks.

Thanks Rusty. My plans depend on several variables. I have a '46 New Yorker that needs a straight 8 and transmission. I bought this and one other as potential replacements, but they are both C49s. If I can find a transmission/fluid drive, and one of these is in good shape, I may try to use one of them in the car. Or if I find an engine/tranny combo of the correct vintage, I might try to sell or trade both.

I have a straight 8 that was "reconditioned" 20+ years ago and then stored in a garage. I can manually turn it over, but only part way before it sticks. In one direction it makes a screeching type noise when it sticks, much like the sound a lug nut makes when it has been on really tight and first comes loose. When it sticks in the other direction it does not make that same sound. I took the valve covers off and observed the valves while turning the engine back and forth and it looks like all the valves move up and down except for three that are stuck in the up position. It doesn't seem like valves in the up position would keep the engine from turning over. I sprayed the valves ends and springs down with PB Blaster and have put various lubricants in the spark plug holes. Is it safe to keep working it like this, or do I need to go to the next step, which sounds like it means removing the head? (It has oil and I soaked the cylinders for a while with Marvel's before doing any of this.)

I like the Spitfire grill.

I don't know about that, but thanks! My neighbor welded one, and I did the second. It's the first time I've used an arc welder. Thank you for posting all the pics in this thread so I could make these.

I finally finished my carts and now have the engines loaded. I had to shim the back of one because of the enormous bellhousing. I used 3 inch channel for the rails and 2 inch channel for the crosspieces. The spacing is 9 1/4 inches. I would increase it an eighth or a quarter if I did it again because it's a pretty tight squeeze. I went with 3 inch wheels to make it easier to roll, but the wheels rub against the pan when turned inwards. So it would be better to use 4 inch rails or maybe go with smaller wheels. I originally had brakes on all the wheels but took the brakes off the rear wheels for that same reason.

The rear vertical track on mine ('42 Plymouth) had a felt-lined sound deadening strip in it. It was attached with wires that bent over the top and bottom. I got replacements from Restoration Specialties, but it's not a part listed in the catalog. So no grease in that track.

Are the fiber washers necessary? Mine only had a bit of paper left on one of them and then I sandblasted them. They seem to work fine, but you have me nervous.

This is now down to $5,800. Looks like a great project. http://portland.craigslist.org/yam/cto/4767661748.html

The parts numbers are the same for all 1946-48 Chryslers.

Bump.

Yes, thanks for that and also for taking all the pictures. I know Bob has seen dozens of these, but is helpful to me to see the pictures with the names.

Glad he might be able to help and sorry I did not include a link in my post.

Finally, an official weight. I was thinking 800. I looked for shopping carts on Craigs List but there were only a few and were quite expensive. I'm going with C49er's suggested design for now, although I think I'm going make both the front and the back like the back on the one he just made, instead of doing the curved portion. If I use 3" channel for the sides, I should have enough clearance for the front of the pan. I'm also thinking about trying to bolt the pieces together because I don't have welding equipment yet.

Plymouth Doctor?

Do you find that this setup is stable in the side to side direction? I like the idea, but these engines are so tall and narrow, I'm worried they would topple over when trying to push sideways.

Here are a couple of albums of old trucks in the woods: http://imgur.com/a/SglDJ#0 http://imgur.com/a/nHIv7#0 These trucks are on Orcas Island in Washington state.

I think it already started. It was kind of fun to take the morning off work on a nice sunny day and unload the engines with the help of my neighbor.

These are in my garage now. Looks like the are both C49 engines. I was hoping for a C39. Quite massive.

Open to offers.

Rear fenders from 1942 Plymouth coupe. Should also fit 1946-48 coupes. $300 for pair. Located in Portland, OR. grancoupe1970 at hotmail.com.

Thanks Bob. Are the engine pan rails the same distance apart on the straight 8s and the sixes? (I have a six in the garage I can measure.)

Status is pretty much the same on the NYer. These engines are from a guy that formerly owned it, although neither is the original. He's giving them to me a price I can't turn down. Countrytravler - No, do not have a transmission (or a floor).

They are for a '46 New Yorker, which lacks an engine and transmission.