jcmiller
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1940 Packard 120 Convertible Restoration
jcmiller replied to theastronaut's topic in Our Cars & Restoration Projects
This is a great thread! Thanks for posting this. The only downside is that it makes it clear to me that I will never be able to accomplish a project I had in mind! Would this have been significantly easier if you had a donor car with good metal? -
I'm just writing to report that I was able to remove the two remaining valves and they now move freely. One was extraordinarily difficult to get out. I had to get a neighbor to help and we used two pry bars on opposite sides of the valve to force it upwards and out. Despite being stuck to such an extent, the valve looks good, much like the one pictured above. I borrowed parts of a gun-cleaning kit to scrub out the valve guides. The kit had a brass bottle brush, a long rod, and a handle. The one that was stuck is a little tight when you first start putting it in, but it moves freely and without resistance within its normal operational range. Thanks again for the tips along the way.
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1948 Chrysler Windsor questions
jcmiller replied to christianad1156's topic in Chrysler Products - General
I believe that you should remove the master cylinder and pedals as a unit. The pedals are attached to a pin going through the MC. There are U-shaped clips that keep the pedals from sliding off. A trick to remove the clips that worked for me is to press the open end of a wrench (13/16" I believe) on the open end of the clip and then strike the closed end of the wrench to drive the clips off. Otherwise they tend to just move around the groove in the pin. At least on my Plymouth, there is a small floor panel near the pedals that can be removed to facilitate this procedure. (This small panel is in addition to the larger removable floor panel.) -
I stopped by the machinist today. He said to put the valve in a drill and run it against 320 grit sandpaper. I did that and the valve seems to be working nicely now. Two more to go. The keepers are kind if hard to position. Would you know immediately if they aren't seated properly? Thanks again for the help. I'm looking forward to getting the head back on this engine.
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Thanks for weighing in. I bought some nylon brushes and cleaned out the guide with kerosene. It works much better but still binds when the valve is most of the way down. I think this is because of the corrosion on the valve stem near the valve proper. I may need a new valve. I'm going to drop by an automotive machine shop today to see if they think it is shot.
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I finally decided to borrow a spring compressor and remove those three valves. I just removed one tonight. The valve stem looks great except about the last inch near the valve face. There must be corrosion in the guide, however, because after pouring some Marvels down it, the valve still does not move up and down easily. So, what can I do short of taking this to a machine shop, to clean up the guides? I was thinking of trying to find a very skinny wire brush. Thx, Jeff
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1945 Crane powered by a 1945 Chry flat 8
jcmiller replied to countrytravler's topic in Chrysler Products - General
I finally got it all apart. Thx for the help. The flywheel weighs 96 pounds! -
1945 Crane powered by a 1945 Chry flat 8
jcmiller replied to countrytravler's topic in Chrysler Products - General
Alright, I'll apply a little more force. I just needed permission. -
1945 Crane powered by a 1945 Chry flat 8
jcmiller replied to countrytravler's topic in Chrysler Products - General
Removing the bellhousing has been quite a challenge. I got the nuts off the back of the crankshaft flange and was able to remove the bolts that appeared to be holding the flywheel on, but it's still firmly affixed. It looks like it might be pressed onto the crankshaft flange. Is it typical to have to use a puller to get these off? (I realize there might be nothing typical about an industrial straight 8.) I marked the transition between crankshaft flange and flywheel in red in these two pictures, one from in front and one from the back. The third picture is an engine-tilting contraption I made so I could get access to those nuts. It worked great. -
I think if you use quotations, you will only get threads that have those two words in that same order. If you leave out quotations, you will get all threads that include the word fluid and the word drive.
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1945 Crane powered by a 1945 Chry flat 8
jcmiller replied to countrytravler's topic in Chrysler Products - General
The collection is quite impressive and includes some great Mopar stuff, including a hemi cuda, a hemi GTX, a hemi Daytona, and some 392 hemi-powered racers. If you go, try to do it Saturday morning because "coffee and cars" is held outside from 8-11. We saw a convertible road runner along with a 6 pack hardtop roadrunner. Also saw a 428 CJ 69 Mach 1. Even though I'm a Mopar guy, I really like that car. -
1945 Crane powered by a 1945 Chry flat 8
jcmiller replied to countrytravler's topic in Chrysler Products - General
I don't have sufficient clearance at this point. I was thinking of heating the bolt heads, and hoping that the heat would transfer to the nuts through the flywheel. Should I be concerned about harming the end of the crankshaft with heat? Have you been to World of Speed Jack? I took Jake there on Saturday and was impressed. -
1945 Crane powered by a 1945 Chry flat 8
jcmiller replied to countrytravler's topic in Chrysler Products - General
Thanks Dave. I'll post a few pics when it's apart. I also figured out that it would be a terrible idea to grind off the bolt heads because there is not enough room inside for the bolts to slide out. -
1945 Crane powered by a 1945 Chry flat 8
jcmiller replied to countrytravler's topic in Chrysler Products - General
Good call Jack! There are two bolts that I can't get too without removing the flywheel first. This is going to be fun. I might just grind the heads off the bolts instead of trying to get the nuts off the back. For now, lots of PB Blaster, and I'll go play in the garden. -
1945 Crane powered by a 1945 Chry flat 8
jcmiller replied to countrytravler's topic in Chrysler Products - General
I'll see if I can look up in there with a mirror. I don't have one of those nice overhead chain hoists in my garage like you do! -
1945 Crane powered by a 1945 Chry flat 8
jcmiller replied to countrytravler's topic in Chrysler Products - General
Just following up on the rare chance that someone else might need to do this. There were pins or dowels between the top and bottom of the bellhousing, like the ones between a normal bellhousing and straight 8. By pounding down on the bottom piece, I was able to get them to separate and the bottom is now removed. I can access the nuts now, but it is tight and I still hope to get the top of the BH off first. It is not yet responding to the hand mallet, but I think it is only a matter of time. -
1945 Crane powered by a 1945 Chry flat 8
jcmiller replied to countrytravler's topic in Chrysler Products - General
Maybe if I can get the lower part of the bellhousing off, but there does not seem to be a way to get to the nuts now. Wish I had big steel beam in the garage and a hoist so I could get a good look at the bottom. -
1945 Crane powered by a 1945 Chry flat 8
jcmiller replied to countrytravler's topic in Chrysler Products - General
Has anyone removed one of these industrial bellhousings from a straight 8? I'm trying to do it, and get it off. Because of the way the heads of the bolts holding the flywheel to the crank are sheared off on one side, it seems that the bellhousing has to come off before the flywheel. I've removed all the bolts I can find that hold the bellhousing to the block and that hold the two pieces of the bellhousing together. I've been rapping on it with a hand sledge and it won't budge from the block. The two pieces have very slightly parted, but don't seem to want to keep moving. Should I stop rapping and start pounding? Thx!! -
1945 Crane powered by a 1945 Chry flat 8
jcmiller replied to countrytravler's topic in Chrysler Products - General
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Luckily the rivet fell on the ground the first time I opened the hood so I have a model. It looks like they are called "shoulder" rivets.
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Thanks Bob. I guess I wasn't looking far enough afield. I didn't realize that the plate between the hinge and the hood needed to come out. Here's a pic of the plate and where the broken rivet it.
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The hood hinges on my '46 NYer appear to be attached to the hood with rivets rather than bolts. Is there a trick to separating the hood from the hinge? I've got a broken hinge and was hoping to remove it while leaving the hood on the car. Thx.
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separate bellhousing from engine
jcmiller replied to jcmiller's topic in Chrysler Products - General
Thanks Bob! I'm buying this unit from someone in another state and they ran into this during the removal. I think your post will help them get it separated. -
Trying to separate a straight 8 engine from the bellhousing. Have 10 bolts removed. Won't budge. Are there a couple pins that need to be driven out? Thx!
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This should be a good resource for you: http://p15-d24.com/forum/6-mopar-flathead-truck-forum/