jcmiller

Only about 700 of these were made between 1946 and 1948. This one is quite rough, but I think worth saving. I would like to make a quick sale to make room for a more appropriate project car so make me an offer. Comes with a couple straight 8s and a tranny/fluid drive, but will consider selling separately. A few more pics at https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/5475631216.html Year- 1946Make - ChryslerModel - New Yorker 3-window coupePrice - $4,200 oboDescription - needs complete restoration, lots of rust in floor and rockersLocation - Portland, ORContact Information - Jeff, grancoupe1970 at Hotmail.com, or PM via this forum

This is mine. Motivated to sell quickly. Make me an offer at email in ad or PM. http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/5475631216.html

Thanks Rusty.

I ended up drilling a couple small holes to pull out a dent in the air cleaner body. I used JB Weld to fill the holes and remaining low spot. I'm having a hard time eliminating the transition between the JB Weld and the rest of the air cleaner. I've sanded it as flat as I can and primed and sanded a few times, but the transition is still visible. I'm sure it will be even more visible once I paint it. I don't have a lot of experience with body work. What can I do to get rid of the edge? I'm using high temp primer and paint and plan to bake it so am hoping to stick with high temp products. Thx.

The article available at this link should be helpful for you: http://p15-d24.com/files/file/70-flathead-6-engine-rebuildpdf/

Yes, pretty sure. It's on a 1950 straight 8 now. I have a collection of pictures of straight 8s from 1946-50 and they all seem to have the Spitfire imprint. The one I have that lacks Spitfire is on a 1950 that was used in an industrial application.

I have two wire looms, one that says Spitfire and one that does not. Which one should a 1946 straight 8 have? (The one that says Spitfire also has a hole through if for the carb linkage, while the other does not.) It would have been all black, correct? A couple of related questions: 1. Most of the head bolts have a well-defined shoulder, but several are rounded more rounded. Is this just corrosion and wear, or should some be different? 2. Does this head gasket look correct? It seems like the openings in the gasket should match the recessed areas in the head. Thx!

FYI https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/cto/5288648871.html

I had my wheel cylinders resleeved by Hagen's in Putallup, WA and was very happy with the results. I also bought the rebuild kits, hoses, and othet related parts there. They have an online catalog by year.

Who would have guessed that Chrysler engineers were inspired by the Knights Templar!

I had to look up coir, but I think you are right.

Another side effect of tanking the air cleaner is that the filter material within the housing dissolved (lower left in photo). I thought it was made of thin wire, but it must have been fibrous material of some sort. Does anyone know what it was or have a suggestion for replacement material? I'm thinking of using a rough gauge steel wool. Thx.

Sorry, New Yorker. But it turns out the guy only has 1 for sale, so I don't think I'm going to pursue it.

Can anyone confirm that the rear quarter moldings for the convertible are the same as for the coupe? I have a parts reference and there is not a separate part number for the convertible so I think they are the same. It would be great to get confirmation before spending $ though. Thx.

Thanks Bob. I read through the manual, and it looks like the car has to be operating to test the solenoid, interrupter, and governor too. I guess I'll just check out the oil strainer for now. It will be a long time before this is in a car anyway.

I baked it at 225 for an hour and the water boiled off and out. It's been sitting in the cold garage for about 6 hours after and vapor has not condensed back into liquid so I think it escaped out the various small gaps.

Thanks all. There is also a small dent so maybe I will drill there and pull the dent too.

Does anyone have a diagram or know how the inside of the main portion of this air cleaner is constructed? I had it tanked to remove grease and paint and there is now some liquid inside of it. No matter how I rotate it, it won't run out. I'm speaking of the left, middle, and bottom portion of what is pictured here. The upper part on the right and the internal element is removed. Also, is the part on the left supposed to come off? It looks like it should, but mine is on pretty tight and I don't want to force it off. Thx.

I've got this M-5 transmission sitting on my work bench. I intend to later mate it with a straight 8 and put it in a '46 New Yorker. I don't know what condition this transmission is in. The person who sold it to me said it was functional, but it was not installed in a car at the time so I'm not sure what his information was based on. He also said the fluid looked good when he drained it before shipment. Anyway,are there any relatively easy things I can check while its sitting on the bench in order to reduce the chance of learning it is broken after it is installed? Thanks.

I thought this description of the 1946 Town and County line would be of interest to some. Chrysler - 1946-04-28.pdf

This may help.

I went with black. I can cover in silver when I paint the engine if incorrect.

I have a picture of a 46-48 straight 8 with a black oil filler tube and a picture of a 1949-50 straight 8 with a silver one. Both had black caps.

Thanks Taylormade. Bill Hirsch paints sound good too. Should the oil filler tube and the oil breather tube be silver or black on a 1946 Chrysler 8? Here is my current understanding: 1946-48 Chrysler Straight Eight Paint Silver: Block Oil Pan Head Water Pump Water Pump Bypass Elbow Water Pump Bypass Hose Oil Pump Front Engine Mount Manifolds Bellhousing Transmission Oil Filler Tube Dipstick Tube Front Pulley Thermostat Housing Black (Semi Gloss): Starter Generator Generator brackets Distributor Body Wire Loom Holder Coil Oil Filler Cap Oil Filler Tube Steady Air Cleaner Air Cleaner Steady Oil Breather Tube Fuel Pump Shield Fan & Pully Oil Filter Housing Oil Filter Cap Oil Filter Cap Clamp Unpainted: Fuel Pump Carb Fuel Lines Oil & Vacuum Lines Accelerator linkage Coil Holder

Can anyone recommend a silver engine paint in a spray can that closely matches the original look on 1946-48 Chryslers? Thx.