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Jim, Mine must have been the exception. The tube was good and the wire was broken

I fixed mine with a piece of .035 mig wire

Seems that if the 200-4r overdrive would drop the 70 mph cruise rpm's to about 2000 and if you had to rapidly pass anyone the transmission should kick back down to drive which would be 2700 rpm's. That would be perfectly at the starting point in the torque curve and should only get deeper into the torque curve as you accelerate. Im about to talk myself into a 200-4r. Thanks, Ron Pyles

I was surfing the net and found a shifter upgrade from Shifter Works ? It appears they make a kit to retrofit our floor shifters to 3 speed and/or overdrive autos, but you still need an adapter for the bellhousing mount. off topic: i installed a T-5 5 speed manual (.70 od gear) in my 1966 Ford F-100 pickup. It has a 352 FE big block with a 3.23 rear gear and 275/60/15 rear tires, which are about the height as the 215/75/15 on my Riviera. the cruise rpm's dropped about 600-700 rpm's. It's nice to cruise at 70 mph w/ac and only turn 1800 rpm's. My truck went from 13 to 18 mpg on the highway These torque monster nailheads will definitely pull our first gen Riv's around at 1750 rpm's on the highway and it would be nice to pickup a few mpg's along the way, not to mention the added longevity of engine and component life due to the reduction of rpm's at cruiseing speed. Thanks, Ron Pyles

The reference to the burnouts is when the original poster changes from a dynaflow to the st400. My personal 63 w/dynaflow, would not spin a tire from a dead stop, but after the tranny swap to the st400, its hard to leave a redlight without chirpping the tires. (makes my wife angry, but it makes me smile) The dynaflow is a great strong transmission, but lacks the mechanical leverage to utilize the torque from the nailhead. the st400 will plant you back in the seat under full acceleration. I thought i read somewhere, that the dynaflow was originally designed for military tanks? Thanks, Ron Pyles

The 200-4r dimensionally appears very similar to the st400. The 700-r4 is larger and longer

I swapped to a 64 frame from a donor car For my 63 and it was a bolt in. Carrier bearing bolts in a different location on the 64 frame to 63 frame. Find a 64 donor car or adapt a 700r4 and get overdrive to boot. You will need all the parts listed above, but the car will perform completely different than before. Burnouts on demand. Thanks, Ron Pyles

I took my 1963 Riviera windshield and rear window out for he usual rust repair and paint, and in my normal hast to get it done, i didn't document the placement and types of clips needed for reinstallation. Does anyone have a picture from a parts catalog that shows the differnet types and locations? I lost my screw hole locations when i removed the rusted metal in the window channels. My service & body manual shows a side view of the clips and the location for the rubber blocks, but not the actual clip locations. Thanks Ron Pyles

Still searching for that unfinished 55 convertible Century or Special project car. Thank You Ron Pyles Ron@hopecontractors.com

Do the clips go in before or after paint? My car is in primer now and will be headed to paint next month. Thanks Ron Pyles

Mike, I can't tell if there is more supports under your body. I was hoping that's where the major differences would be. I know there are inner and outer body mounts on yours where there are only outer body mounts on my hardtop body. Thanks, Ron Pyles

I hope this is clear enough. I'm not sure if I did it correctly. Thank You, Ron Pyles

Al, That's the information I needed. The frames are definitely different. I guess my search will lead me to a complete project convertible car. That's all I need another total restoration. You can't take it with you. Thank goodness my kids are grown. Thank you, Ron Pyles

Engines on the stand. Still looking for for a 55 convertible. Ron@hopecontractors.com. Thanks Ron Pyles.

Maybe someone can help me who has a convertible frame. I measured my hardtop frame for thickness: Exterior C channels .115" X brace .090" X brace center top and bottom .180" I would like to buy a 1955 Century or Special convertible body or project car Thank You, Ronald Pyles

this is my frame and it looks just like your frame.[ATTACH

Guys thanks for the intel. I'll check my service manual for any differences. My hardtop frame does have the additional body mount holes for the convertible cab and that's what gave me the impression that they could share frames. If anyone has any photos of a 55 convertible chassis I would really appreciate it. Thanks Ron Pyles

I have a 2 door hardtop and i believe the frames are the same. Still looking for a convertible cab. Ronald Pyles

My clock wasn't working on my 63. When it took it apart I noticed there was a small wire that was suppose to be attached to a flat brass piece. Five minutes with a soldering iron and my 49 year old clock is ticking like new. Saved me $100 conversion and way cooler operating.

I'm in the process of restoring my 1955 Special 2 door hardtop. The body is on a rotisserie now and the fenders, trunk and hood are done. Considering changing the body to a convertible and using the rest of my finished body parts. If you have a decent convertible car body please call or email. Thank You, Ronald Pyles Shreveport, La Ph. 318-221-8924 Ron@hopecontractors.com

Restoring a 1963 Riviera and the rear lower seat frame is rusted out. I need a lower rear seat frame. Please email or call. Thank you, Ron Pyles Shreveport, La. 318-422-4710 Ron@hopecontractors.com