JV Puleo

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Everything posted by JV Puleo

  1. Yes...that is the technique. The gentleman I bought the line boring rig from gave me his late father's fixtures so I have two setups similar to the ones David Greenlees uses. Terry, if you'd like to experiment with them you are more than welcome. It will be a long time before I need them. If you coat the mandrel with soot from an acetylene torch the Babbitt won't stick to it. Or you can use a polished aluminum mandrel because Babbitt won't stick to that either. I'll probably do both...make an aluminum mandrel and coat it with soot just to be sure.
  2. Ironically enough, 20 hours is the exact number I had in mind. The oil pump was run for about 23 hours. I'll have to build an engine test stand to do it as it will be a long time before the chassis is usable for that purpose and even then I've no good place to do it if I use the chassis. I'm not thrilled abut building such a big testing platform but it probably can't be avoided.
  3. That's pretty much the plan, especially as I haven't anywhere to go and the chassis will be done long before there is a body to put on it. I don't expect making the rods to be easy but I'm paying close attention to the period engineering data I have. Will it work? I don't know...the only way to find out is to finish. And, I'd love to find a dyno t test it on...
  4. The cam bearings are bronze. The front and rear ones are just bronze bushings. The center bearing is split because of the cam lobes. The two halves are held together with four 10-24 socket head cap screws. The main bearings will be bronze shells with a Babbitt lining. It will stick to bronze just fine and the pinch in the crankcase should hold them secure but I may add a pin in the cap to make certain they cannot revolve. I'm still a bit undecided about the rods as I've yet to make them. They will probably get bronze shells as well but it was suggested that I use modern insert bearings. I'm not convinced that is safe as modern inserts usually have a Babbitt lining that is only micron's thick. A crankshaft like this one is "whippy"' ... it isn't as rigid as a modern crank. Add to that that the rod bearings have to be splash lubricated and I wonder if modern bearings might wear out very fast. Here is the illustration from Held showing an oil level indicator attached to a sump. An my design for a simplified version. I'm not sure it needs the glass at the top as the rod is 1/4" in diameter and will run through a reamed hole about 2" long. The two "nut" shaped things at the top re a pair of super banjo fittings that will go on the bottom of the sump. One will be a return for oil from the timing case and the other will supply the oil pump. They are connected by another line which will, in turn, be connected to the level indicator. The major drawback with all this is that all of the oil lines are external and there are a lot of connections, each with the capacity to leak. I have to be very careful to make good connections everywhere but I still expect the engine to weep a little oil.
  5. I'm not terribly concerned about the strength but yes, some of the bottom edge is corroded. The longer brass liner I made will be doing exactly what you suggest in making direct contact with sub-frame rail. The material I'll use is Devcon aluminum epoxy. It is available in relatively small quantities but it is still very expensive. I think the container I have cost close to $70 but it is well worth it. Like you say, it's an industrial product, not available at the local hardware or big box store. There is a hollow in the underside of each arm so in this case I'll fill that and finish the underside flat. The spacer will give me the correct metal to metal fit and the filler will just be that although it does have more than enough compression strength to do the job by itself. The real question is do I have the case cleaned now or wait until all the machining is done. If the vapor degreasing does not dissolve Babbitt metal I'll have it done now so I can repair the arm. If it does, I will have to do the preliminary boring first because I want to center the boring bar on the bearings as they are. They aren't badly worn but I suspect that the Mitchell company did not bore the rough case very accurately and just used the Babbitt (which is close to 1/4" thick) to make up the differences. If that is the case, then removing the Babbitt before the bar is set up could be a disaster. The Devcon has a grey color so it will not match the case. By rights I should paint the case with aluminum paint - there are extensive traces of it still there. If I do that the repair should be invisible.
  6. Since threading is a slow operation, it gives me plenty of time to think about other problems, one of which is the corroded front engine mount. This morning I came in an made a longer insert. This will screw into the arm of the crankcase from the top. I purposely made the threads about .003 smaller so it will go in easily. I will screw it down until the bottom surface touches the sub-frame and it will be held in place with Locktite. In that manner I'll get a metal to metal contact without relying on the aluminum epoxy filler I'll use to mask the corrosion. Nothing will show after the engine is in place. The other inserts are about .100 to .150 short (depending on which arm they go in) This is fine because the machined surfaces on the arms are good. What concerns me is tightening down the corroded arm and putting twisting stress on the case so I will tighten up the three good arms before setting the repair piece in the corroded one.
  7. Well, since I live in RI and I intend this to be my every day truck, I don't have much choice there.
  8. Godfrey & Wing owns IMPCO. I looked up G&W...same address as IMPCO so apparently they have just reorganized what different parts of the company do under what names. That's a relief. [EDIT] The IMPCO division of this company offers this brush-on sealant for aluminum. http://impco-inc.com/product/alumiseal/ It looks to be a useful product for anyone who isn't local to their facility. I've also been re-thinking the oil level indicator. Something Ed said earlier rang a bell. If I put the float for the indicator inside the crankcase I will have to shield it from the oil thrashing around and I'm reminded that Ed cautioned against doing anything that might upset oil flow around the inside of the case...not that it would cause a problem but that it COULD cause a problem. Rather than take that chance I've come up with a preliminary design for an oil well adjacent to the sump. It's more complicated to make but it mirrors what many of the period makers did so I'm sure it will work - where the other solution may work – and may cause problems too. On the plus side, it will put the oil level indicator adjacent to the breather/filler tube where in the earlier design they were on opposite sides of the engine.
  9. Thanks. I'm going to email them next week and ask. From the look of things I get the impression they are reworking their web site so perhaps there isn't a problem but another source would certainly be welcome. That is clearly the way to go.
  10. The company is IMPCO in East Providence. They used to be on Valley Street almost across the street from my office. I found their web site but all the pages go to a 404 error - no longer available. That might just be an internet glitch...I'll try again but at the moment it looks as if they are either out of business or no longer doing that. That was my first choice...the business of doing it myself is only if they are unavailable. Frank Cooke put me on to them many years ago to seal a PI head.
  11. I will certainly paint the inside of the crankcase and probably the outside as well. Like most cases in period, it was painted with aluminum paint and there are still considerable traces of it left. I see that ZEP markets a product specifically for aluminum and other soft metals. It's intended to be used in a heated bath too...the only drawback is the price. The smallest quantity you can buy is 40 lbs. and it costs about $150. I'd live with that if I could find some independent confirmation that it works.
  12. That sounds about as promising as anything. I have no problem letting it soak for a month if necessary but I'm very leery of acidic or caustic solutions. How abut heating it? I could put it in a big plastic container with a bucket heater.
  13. In order to get grade 5 castle nuts I had to buy 100 of them...I need 12 so I'll have plenty to choose from. I also thought of adjusting them in the surface grinder but I'm not sure any of that is really needed here because I don't intent to torque them to the full limit of the bolts. I doubt it's necessary with the grade 5 studs because they are tougher than the original bolts were. I had one of those "what do I do next" days yesterday and got very little done except thinking about the job. The one things I did do was a test with the end mill I had ground to .950 to put in the hole for the oil fitting for the center main bearing. I'll only get one bite at that apple so I needed to make absolutely certain it was right for the 1-20 thread. I'd like to finish all the machine work on the crankcase before I start on the bearings. That presents a problem in that the left front arm that supports the crankcase is badly corroded. This is a case where I'll use Devcon aluminum putty, but the piece has to be really clean in order to get the best adhesion. Ideally, this corner should be lightly sand blasted - but I don't have a sand blaster and my compressor is so anemic I doubt it could power one. While thinking about that, I decided to make liners for the 4 holes that secure the case to the sub=frame, starting with some 7/8" brass bar. Drilled and reamed with a 1/2" hole in the center. And trimmed so they are 1" long. The thickness of the arms isn't uniform but the underside is hollow so these liners will provide a nice fitting hole but won't touch the sub frame. I threaded them 7/8"-14 And was fortunate in that I had a nut that size (which is why I chose that thread) so I didn't have to make a threading gage. I finished them near the end of the day but while working on them I had an idea to make a longer one for the corroded arm. In that case, I am going to have to fill the cavity on the underside and it will probably be easier to do if the liner is the exact depth. I can't calculate that very effectively because of the missing material but if I make it long enough so that it touched the sub-frame I can trim the top with a counterbore. I had intended to have the case vapor de-greased (there is a local company that does that) after all the machine work was done but now I'm wondering if I shouldn't do it after all the liners are fitted but before I start on the bearings. I'm in the air as to the best way to clean an oil soaked aluminum crankcase. I've thought of soda blasting (but the only local place that does it is in Newport - a long drive and for all I know they aren't even open at the moment. Years ago there was a truck repair facility in Worcester that had a tank for aluminum crankcases. I don't know what the chemical was but that would seem a possible choice. If I knew what would work, the ideal solution would be to do it myself as, at this point, I'm hesitant to entrust it to anyone else. Any ideas? [EDIT] I did a google search and the first two things that came up were me asking the same question a few years ago...you'd think I'd remember.
  14. I liked it a lot better before it was "restorated". The colors are just silly. They make it look like an ice cream truck...and why did they want to ditch the original rear fenders? It's just another good reason to question a lot of "restorations."
  15. I recently bought an 89 Blazer. Very unusual for New England, it does not appear to have ever been used on salty roads. In fact, it only has 75,000 miles on it and was owned by an older woman for the first 30 years of it's life. Before it starts to rust, I'd like to make an effort to paint the chassis. Here's the problem though... there is no way I can take the body off. I'll have to do this job by jacking it up and working in my driveway so it seems as if rattle cans would suit the job best. It will never be a show car - in fact I bought it as a daily driver but I'd like to do everything I can to keep it as sound as I can as it isn't rusty yet. It would be easy enough to get a dozen cans of Rustoleum but would Eastwood's "rust encapsulator" be any better? Or, is there another product on the market that would do an even better job.
  16. I wouldn't use it. The weld is almost certainly not as strong as the original keyway was and that failed. I had a similar problem with a 1910 REO and the only real solution was to make new axles. The interesting part will be getting the taper right but at least you have the old one for setup. A long time ago Dandy Dave did a thread on making new axles for a Buick(?)...I seem to remember that he had to finish lap the axle into the hub because the original machining was not all that perfect. That might be the case here and why it failed in the first place.
  17. Carriage jack... it goes under the hub and lifts the carriage or wagon off the floor. I have a set of 4 of them. They could probably be used with a brass car to lift it off the tires for winter storage but they aren't all that stable. You wouldn't want to crawl under.
  18. I've now had at least 4 instances where I wanted to incorporate a feature mentioned by Heldt and found that the crankcase casting appears to have been made with that in mind. It leaves me thinking that the designer actually thought of these things but that in their push to decrease costs the Mitchell company eliminated them. It may be that I'm coming closer to the original design than I'd anticipated.
  19. That's pretty much what I've planned. I'm thinking that rather than the housing and glass I will just have a 1/4" brass rod that projects up from the boss on the crankcase. The oil level indicator is directly behind the intake manifold and I don't know if there is enough room for a glass... but, if my design works out I can add one if there is room.
  20. Yes...but I do have crank journals and rods spinning around. Over-oiling was a major problem in period...everyone was afraid of running the bearings so they just lived with the smoke. Since this car had a semi-total loss system it was probably impossible to maintain a constant oil level. That said, I think I'm getting close to figuring out what it should be. I started the day by trying to make one of my threaded sleeves for the piece I'll have to screw into the crankcase for the oil level indicator. The problem is that I don't have much room. To work the sleeve would need a wall thickness of 1/32" and that proved to be too thin. This made me decide to forgo the sleeve and thread the new piece directly into the crankcase. For that I'll want to use coarse threads so I had to order another end mill to bore the hole...a drill won't work because I also have to move the hole slightly since, as you can imagine, it isn't in the middle of the cast boss on the crankcase. So...I pulled the sump off the shelf to take a look at it. I don't have either of the drain plugs but I found this piece - I've no idea if it came from this car or not but the threads are right. I measured it and it turns out the hole is threaded 13/16-16 - not a commonly seen size. But, because I also have a nut that size at least I don't have to make threading gages. I cut two pieces of 7/8 hex stock, turned and threaded them. Then drilled and tapped them for 1/8 NPT plugs. These are just so that I can put the sump on the engine and pour oil in without it running all over the floor. In it's finished state it will have banjo fittings at both places. The rear one will serve as the oil pickup for the pump and I suspect I'll use the front one as the oil return for the timing gear case. So, at least I got something done today. I also ordered a tap and die in the correct size that I'll use to make the finished pieces.
  21. Today I'll get to work on the oil level indicator. I have to do this before I start work on the main bearings because it will call for some machining on the crankcase that will not be possible once the main bearing caps are attached, The machine work is straightforward enough but I realize I face the problem of regulating the gage. This is the page of the original owner's manual that deals with oil capacity... My car is the Model T (a very confusing coincidence). Notice that the recommended oil capacity for both the 4-cylinder and the 6-cylinder engine is the same. This makes me wonder if this figure is the "starting" capacity. In its original format the engine had a box oiler that held about a quart...is the "3 quarts" listed in addition to the oil in the box? If so, the capacity is 4 quarts (which seems about right). I am going to have to fit the sump and pour some oil in to see so I'll probably figure out what the the optimum capacity is. Does anyone here have any idea what the relationship was between the surface of the oil and the big end of the rods was in a splash lubricated engine? So far, none of my engineering books have mentioned this.
  22. I'd be curious myself about when the body was built because I had a RR PI with a huge limousine body on it. The body was very tall and looked much more like 1920 (or even earlier) than 1929 which was the year for the chassis. At the time I thought it had been moved from an earlier Silver Ghost - a not unusual thing for a very conservative owner who could afford to do just about anything to do if he (or she) liked the original body and just wanted to have the latest model chassis. It was a Brewster body with the interior skeleton trim and the rear doors and back of the body were done in faux cane work.
  23. I can really empathize with your dilemma. It's always ten times as frustrating to try to fix a bodged job. The one that really annoys me are the two parts "that no one will ever take apart"...except invariably you have to in order to fix something that shouldn't have been done in the first place. I have one of those in the shop right now...done by a "professional".
  24. I finished the threading today...much to my relief. I actually have 14 studs although I only need 12. The two extras were insurance against ruining one but as it turned out, they are all fine. As soon as the threading was done I drilled the holes for the cotter pins. I then wire brushed the ends and ran a nut over the hole to smooth out any burrs. I also blew all the holes out as it occurred to me that they could harbor some fine steel slivers and I certainly don't want those circulating in the engine. Then they went in a bag with the nuts and washers. With any luck I'll be able to use them before the year is out.
  25. I found these two sight glasses in my "brass bits" drawer. One is clearly too big but I might be able to make use of some of the smaller one. But before I can do anything there, I have to finish the studs I started. I trimmed them all to 3" and put in the reliefs. Then threaded them to .005 larger than the finished size and ran a die over them to remove the burrs and make them all uniform. And tested them with a nut. This is slow work...I've threaded most of Sunday and all day today and I'm still not finished. Of course, if you were making a lot of these this is not the way you'd do it. There are much faster ways but they all involve buying some rather expensive tooling and it just isn't worth it for one engine. On the plus side, they are coming out nice.