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JV Puleo

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Posts posted by JV Puleo

  1. I finished the 9 to 10 B&S adapter today. For some unknown reason, things have gone very smoothly. I started by drilling and reaming to 1"




    Then put in the #9 taper. This is a finishing reamer so I had to go very carefully to prevent it from grabbing...after all, tapers are intended to stick. It called for lots of oil and a very slow feed by hand. The taper only goes in about 1/3 of the way which corresponds with the shape of the collets.




    Then the lathe was set up for offset turning. It's important that the offset be perpendicular to the work piece so I leveled the boring head as best I could. It isn't perfect but it's very close.




    With the work piece pressed on to a 1" mandrel I set the offset. The offset is calculated on the length of the mandrel rather than the work piece and because the points of the centers go in slightly it isn't easy to get the perfect length. I ended up figuring it for 7" and 6-3/4" - the difference in offset was only .005 and I split the difference.




    And then started turning, taking light cuts because with the mandrel at an angle I'm not sure how much pressure it can take. Besides, it's more important it come out right and fast.




    Because I'm working on centers, I can take the piece out of the lathe and put it back so when I got down to about .050 larger than I thought it should be I tried it with this #9 B&S center.




    I put it back in the lathe, took another cut and tried it again. The final cut was .005 and I may have gone .001 or .002 beyond the optimum measurement but it seems to fit correctly and it's tight.




    Tapers are a little forgiving when they are pulled in by a drawbar so even if this isn't as good as it might be had I been able to use a cylindrical grinder I think it will do the job just fine.






    Now I have to calculate the "lead"...the amount the gear turns while cutting and make whatever pieces I need to set up the gear train. I'll also make an aluminum test gear first...and I need to get the involute cutter. I thought I had the right one but there is a formula for calculating which cutter to use. If this was a spur gear you use the cutter I have but since it's a spiral gear I need one slightly thinner.

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  2. I have to agree with just about everyone here but no one is ever going to give me a new car so I won't ever have that problem. My "driver" is my newly purchased '77 Blazer - very basic, low mileage etc. I paid too much for it from the Blue Book perspective but it's worth every penny in the ease of repair and the electronic garbage I do not have to endure.


    I was also amused by Ed's story about being taken for the valet. I've several similar stories, including going to look at a car for a friend. He's in Texas and I'm in RI so he asked me to check it out, take some pictures, and report back. I was given the most ridiculous "cock-and-bull" story by a well-known antique car dealer who obviously took me for a rube whose notion of an antique car was a '65 Mustang. The car was so bad I didn't even bother to take the photos...and I should add, that the gentleman in Texas is a knowledgeable Packard guy as well as being the best machinist I've ever bet - the sort of guy that can make his own splined hubs to match a set of 1920s Dunlop wheels.

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  3. I started the day with the brass plugs that will go in the Cadillac water pump...

    Turned to 1", with the hex section finished.






    Then threaded.







    This is how it will look. Another piece goes in the center to connect a Zerk fitting with the hollow water pump shaft and transmit grease to the bushing on the opposite end.




    While working on this I was thinking about the next step on the dividing head. In order to hold the gear blank I need to be able to put a #9 B&S collet in a #10 B&S taper. This is going to be an adapter, exactly like the adapter Mike M made for 5C collets in his lathe. I'm not sure if this technique for making it will work but I have to try. I should be using a taper attachment - a fixture that comes with many lathes but I only have part of the attachment for this machine. When I bought it (about 40 years ago) I knew much less about machines. Since I have part of it, I suspect the rest of it was there but I simply didn't recognize it. I'm starting with a piece of 12L14, 4" long.




    I faced off both ends and will drill and ream it to 1". Then I'll try to put the #9 B&S taper in. All this is pretty straight forward. It's the next step, turning a #10 taper on the OD that will be the real challenge.



    • Like 4
  4. I don't think I'll ever try to do a car with chrome trim...I have thought about doing nickel plating and at some point I will experiment with "close plating". I'd really like to be able to do that but since it's virtually a lost art I can't be tempted to have it done.

    • Like 2
  5. I printed out the measurements for the taper and set the lathe up exactly as I did the last time. Much to my satisfaction, when I tested the setting with an indicator, it was right on. If that sounds odd, when I'm doing something like this (and haven't done it before) I always wonder if my measurements were right or I just got lucky. Since it worked perfectly the 2nd time I guess I did get them right. This time I had no problem at all drilling the cotter pin hole.




    Now I have to get back to the dividing head. There are still a couple of small things to do to these shafts - the keyway, the notches for the set screws that will hold it in place and trimming to length but I have to get the dividing head all worked out and make some parts for it. To keep busy today I started two brass plugs for the Cadillac water pumps. This is part of my re-design...these plugs will screw into the end of the housing and hols a Zerk fitting to grease the front bushing. It's a modification of the original system but I think it will be effective in getting grease to the surface it belongs on.






    One of the reasons I'm doing this is that, in order to dismantle the pump, I had to bore out the broken thermostat adjuster. I threaded the hole 1"-20 so I'm making the plugs to fit the new hole. Rather than try to explain this, I'll just wait until I've made the parts and I can show them.



    • Like 4
  6. Back to the shop this morning I started with an easy job, drilling the holes for the cotter pins in the White water pump shafts...




    It turned out not to quite that easy. The 1/8 drill broke in the first hole. I'm not sure why but I suspect that it caught a burr from the center hole. It was a trick to get it out because, with it in there, I couldn't unscrew the fixture from the shaft. I did get it out and drilled the 2nd shaft with no problem. The finished shafts are 11" long, about 2" of which is pressed into the gear. The pieces of 3/4 stock are 12" long and this time I had the foresight not to trim them first thinking "suppose I have a problem with the taper". I didn't anticipate the hole being a problem. I set it up in the lathe an did the other end though I left the taper measurements at home so I'll do that bit tomorrow...most of the bad end will be trimmed off and all of it will be inside the gear so only the readers of this thread will know I made an error.


    Not wanting to waste time, I trimmed one of the castle nuts. I'm only removing .050 but this will bring the notches in alignment with the holes.






    When I was sure I had the measurements right I made 6 of them. You can't really predict where the notches will come out in relation to the hole so this will give Ed some to choose from...




    Then, having an hour left before the end of the day, I put half of the Cadillac pump in the lathe. It's actually screwed on to my 1'-20 threading gauge which holds it perfectly centered. The idea here was to get a perfectly flat surface for the flanged bushing to rest against.




    That worked better than it had a right to...




    In looking at it, I've decided I can fit a longer bushing. Removing the original thermostat gives me room to work with so I am making some changes to the inside of this pump. I think they will be improvements (at least I hope they are).

    • Like 4
  7. For some reason I had the slows today. I got some things done but I think it was in slow motion... I did finish the fixture for drilling the cotter pin holes in the White water pump shaft. Of course, I left the camera in the office and didn't retrieve it until I'd finished up the lathe part of the job. This piece was drilled 29/64 (hole size for a 1/2-20 thread) then counterbored 3/4" so that there was about 1/2" of the smaller diameter hole left. I then turned it around and threaded the small end.




    And tested it by screwing it on to my test taper.




    I made some minor adjustments then put it in the mill to put two flats on it. This one is the bottom flat...




    The top flat is narrower and center drilled for the through hole and a 5/16-18 nylon tipped set screw. I'm taking the measurements from the SAE Handbook.






    I then tried it out on the test taper and it seems to be fine. The threaded section here is about .050 longer than the original but it still is a very close fit with these modern nuts. I suspect the original nuts were thinner...in any case, when I get back to this (probably on Monday) I'll drill the two finished shafts and make up some slightly thinner nuts so everything goes together correctly.




    Yesterday I rescued this Hudson radiator from the barn I found the motorcycles in. As bad as it looks the radiator itself seems sound or at least sound enough for me to use in on the motor test stand I'll have to eventually build.



    • Like 5
  8. That is an even more complicated problem. On a spiral bevel gear the grooves between the teeth aren't exactly parallel. They are slightly wider at the outside of the bevel.  Even the B&S book that covers the procedure says it is impossible to do with extreme precision on a horizontal milling machine because, to get the widened grooves, you have to finish the teeth by hand filing. There were machines that could make them...something like a Gleason Gear Generator and I know there were some dedicated B&S Gear-making machines. I once bid on a gear making machine. It was set up and working and had a huge amount of the necessary tooling with it. I was the high bidder at $150 but the seller cancelled the auction before it ended. That was wise...it was such a specialized piece of equipment that e-bay was not the place to sell it. I did hear that it later sold for about 10 times that amount, still a bargain if you knew how to use it. With that one machine you could set up a small business making custom gears.

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  9. 7 hours ago, wayne sheldon said:

    German submarines off the Eastern coast I guess still remains the bailiwick of various conspiracy theorists and pseudo-historians. I have read that some government records released about twenty years ago indicated a likelihood that German subs were patrolling off the coast at least some. However, I have not seen enough to have a real opinion on that one.


    German submarines off the East Coast were a real issue...a friend saw a tanker torpedoed within sight of shore within sight of shore and a group of spies sent to America came ashore on Long Island from a submarine. Patrolling the beaches was a regular activity for both the Coast Guard and the National Guard. There is a U-boat on the bottom off Block Island. My mom was laying on the beach, watching what she thought was a training exercise, as a Destroyer fired depth charges, only to find out later that they'd sunk a submarine. It was the last one of the war. The Captain had been ordered to surrender but was a fanatical Nazi and decided he wanted to go out fighting. Who knows how the crew felt about that but the boat went down with all hands.


    About 40 years ago it was announced that the German government was going to have it raised. It's in fairly shallow water but nothing came of that. It is supposed to be off-limits to divers as a war grave but that has never been enforced and odd bits like engine gauges show up in shops from time to time.

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  10. The first one to come to mind for me was Larry Riker, the son of A.L. Riker of Locomobile. Actually, it was Walter McCarthy who introduced me to him (Walt G was probably there too...). Mr. Riker's father owned Old 16 and may have been the one who sold it to Peter Helck. He mentioned the car to me and how his father sold it just before he turned 16...go figure.

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  11. The dividing head is back together. There are some small parts that look really hammered but it also looks as if they interchange with my other B&S dividing head so I'll just swap them around...if that doesn't work it isn't a major problem in any case.




    I was just about to leave for the post office to mail the 3-legged, tapered fitting back to Ed when I realized I'd forgotten something important. White used castellated nuts and cotter pins everywhere and the end of the shaft has to be drilled for a pin. With the tapered end and the threads, that is a lot easier said than done, at least as precisely as I'm trying to make these. So, I came up with a fixture to hold the shaft while I drill the pin hole. I'm off tomorrow but I'll be able to finish it on Friday.



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  12. There is some wear on the worm and mating gear that leads me to think it was used by someone who didn't properly engage them because the other gears show no wear at all. It won't have any effect on how it works though. There is always some backlash in these - much more in the gear train. I'm anxious to set it up and try it out...I'll make one or two test blanks and run them until I'm sure I've got the drill down. This is a big step forward. Making one-off spiral gears may be the sort of specialty job I can do on the side once in a while since I know it's very difficult to find anyone willing to make a single, unusual gear. I really don't want to get distracted from my main project but the occasional side job takes a bite out of the constant expense...


    I found a number when I cleaned the crusty oil off... "1956" ... much more likely a serial number than a date. If I had to guess, I'd say this was made around 1900 - 1920.

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  13. I was back to the White water pump today – or rather the dividing head that I'm getting ready to cut spiral gear.




     I had to make an aluminum drift to knock the spindle out out, after that, it came apart better than I'd anticipated.




    The primary problem was that it was stuck but ultimately it proved that was just the result of a layer of dried oil. Needless to say, the tolerances in a tool like this are extremely fine. They are a joy to use when working properly but a little dried oil will seize them up. It's so clean inside that I won't go much further...just clean it up as is and reassemble it. Then I have to get an idea what I need for studs to hole the intermediate gears for spiral cutting – those are missing. I ordered some bits ($95 worth) from McMaster Carr last night for the Cadillac job so I'll be bouncing back and forth between these two jobs depending on what machines are needed and whether the setups are similar.



    • Like 2
  14. No...

    And your experience with your Dodge pretty much proves the point.


    Oddly enough I'm working on just that sort of problem right now, water pumps in a 1920 Cadillac. This was the first American car with thermostatically controlled heating. The thermostats are built into the water pumps and, unlike the modern variety, they restrict flow on the input side. The original parts aren't working, apparently damaged by a "less than sympathetic" so-called rebuild. I will be removing them and fitting in-line thermostats on the output hoses but this brings up an important point...


    Before the adoption of thermostats the capacity and flow rate of the radiator had to be carefully balanced with the capacity of the pump. Everything except the ambient temperature could be calculated but, because the makers couldn't predict the temperature the car would be operated at they were always calculated to over cool...as if the car was going to be crossing Death Valley in the high Summer. When new, they almost never reached what we would consider optimum operating temperature under normal conditions. This has been mitigated a little in modern times because most cars are running with partially occluded radiators and blocks. Overheating in period had more to do with running with the spark retarded, using in too low a gear, revving the engine and spinning tires trying to get out of the mud or pulling up a long hill. Leaky gland nuts and lost coolant were probably a big contributor too. There is no reason to assume most motorists paid much more attention to those things than modern ones do. As late as 1920 - and even later, many, if not most cars were being sold to people who barely knew how to drive and certainly were unaware of the finer points of handling a motor.


    In the case of the early Cadillac V-8, it is effectively two 4-cylinder motors with a common radiator and each of the pumps has an impeller 1" greater in diameter than it should have were there no thermostat. The car also has a new radiator...so it never gets hot unless the coolant leaks out.

  15. To me, the ironic part is that I now know exactly how they went together and I'm reasonably sure I can make them as good or better than they were new.

    I'm a bit concerned about that messy patch of braze though...I suspect that they literally broke the center boss out of that casting and then brazed it back in place. It's messy looking but I don't think I should do any more with it. The repair seems to be sound and nothing will show when It is back together.

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  16. Now I have to clean up the dividing head I bought and make a few bits for it...one of which is a #10 B&S taper to #9 B&S taper adapter for the spindle. Needless to say, it has to be accurate so the experience making the pump shafts has been invaluable. As it is, it's stuck from sitting for perhaps 50 years so I'm also taking it completely apart to get everything free and properly lubricated.




    And, in between working on this (because I always end up needing something and don't want to stop and wait for it...I took apart the worst of the 2 Cadillac pumps I'm rebuilding. I was several hours just getting the two halves of the casing apart...gently because it was stuck with rust, schmuts and old gasket cement.




    It's pretty obvious that the shafts are shot...it looks as if they were running sand in the water.




    And I discovered that someone had done this ¶•ªº braze repair...why, I don't know but it will look familiar to anyone who does this sort of work.




    There is a flanged bushing in one side. Getting it out was an all day job. These pumps have built in thermostats. They were non-operational and  stuck in place. Also, to remove them there was an adjustment fitting that has to come out and someone had broken the hex end off it. In the end, I drilled and bored virtually all of the pieces out of the casting.






    To get the remains of the adjustment fitting out I bored it with and end mill...




    And threaded the hole. I've slightly redesigned the fittings to eliminate the thermostat. I'll put in-line thermostats in the hoses, and I'll have to make the new fitting that goes here.




    At the end of the day I was finally able to press the bushing out...you can see what condition it was in.




    Then on to the other side...

    I faced off the braze repair but didn't want to go too far because I've no idea why it's there.




    Then, very carefully, bored out the bushing since I've n way of pressing it out from the other side.




    And discovered that the engineer that designed Ed's water pump must have moved over to Cadillac because the bushing for this side is one piece with the housing that holds the water pump packing...this was a surprise ...



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    • Haha 1
  17. 12 hours ago, John_S_in_Penna said:


    I don't carry a mobile phone.  It's nice to be away

    from constant contact and have some peace.

    I have no interest in having a "smart phone"...I don't want to be available to everyone, all the time. I do have the flip phone because I'm almost never at home and 90% of the calls I get are robo-calls. As to taking a picture with it...I have done that accidentally but have no idea how you'd get it off the camera. I've no idea how to send a text message either. Having said all that, I'm sure this was a scam but the presupposition that "everyone" is enamored with the latest technology is simply wrong....like saying "everyone" follows Facebook or Twitter. Everyone doesn't.

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