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About TomB

  • Birthday 03/11/1948

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  1. Excellent. I was thinking 16 x 5.50. Boy would I have been wrong! Thanks Spinneyhill for taking the time to reply and for citing the source of your information. I will defer to the shop manual. Thanks again, TomB
  2. Can someone kindly provide the original (correct) tire size for the 1937 Studebaker Dictator? Please advise if you have any questions, or require additional information regarding this post. Thank you. Respectfully, TomB
  3. Other than mild soap and water, does anyone have any suggestions for cleaning vintage gauge faces without harming the original finish? Thanks in advance. Respectfully, TomB
  4. Hi Terry: Sorry for the confusion. I am not talking about the small cover in the flywheel housing. I'm at the front end of the engine. If you remove the timing cover to expose the timing chain and gears, you will see the timing plate that attaches to the front of the engine. I'm in need of the correct color for the timing plate at the front of the engine. Thanks again. Respectfully, TomB
  5. Greetings: I have another question regarding our '27 EU Standard Six engine build. I know the timing cover is painted black; however, what color is correct for the timing plate? Is the timing plate also black, or is it some other color? Thank you. Respectfully, TomB
  6. Would anyone know the correct procedure for installing the flywheel in a '37 Dictator Standard Six? A good Studebaker buddy of mine claims the "0" (zero) on the flywheel must be aligned with another indicator on the engine, but he wasn't sure what the other indicator is. I find a numeral "6" or "8" (can't be sure which) stamped into what appears to be a keystone symbol on the crankshaft. Does the "0" on the flywheel get aligned with the stamping on the crankshaft, or aligned with some other indicator? All replies will be appreciated. Thank you. Respectfully, TomB
  7. Most grateful for all replies. Still learning lots of info on our first pre-war project. Thank you, TomB
  8. I'm starting assembly on my '27 EU Standard Six engine. Does anyone have torque specs for these engines? I'm primarily interested in torque specs for rods, mains, and head, but would welcome all other engine torque specs. I'm unsure of the bolt grades I'm dealing with. The mains have 1/2 inch (bolt size); 13 (coarse threads per inch) bolts with "2" on the bolt head. Am I correct to assume the numeric designation "2" indicates a grade 2 bolt? The Standard Steel Bolt Torque Specifications I have shows dry torque specs of 47 foot-pounds for a grade 2 bolt. All replies will be most appreciated. Thank you. Respectfully, TomB
  9. I'm guessing the reason the eBay seller lives close to Studeq is because the eBay items are being offered by Studeq. [insert Smiley Face Here]
  10. Studeq: Thank you for your response. While the R. Quinn photo you sent was very helpful, I have not yet figured out how to discern colors from a black and white photo. There aren't many people alive today who remember how these cars were presented from the factory 87 years ago. I've spoken with several knowledgeable Studebaker people, and some tell me my engine was gray, others tell me it was green. I've heard that sometime during late 1927 model year production, the engine color changed from gray to green, and green engines were produced throughout 1928 production. I need to know if anyone knows of this 1927 engine color change; if so, at what VIN and/or engine number did the change occur? I also need to know what color is correct for the bellhousing, transmission, and timing cover. Was all bracketry (for the accessory shaft, oil pump, and water pump) finished in gloss black? All responses will be most appreciated. Thank you. Respectfully, TomB
  11. If all the planets align correctly, I expect the machine work to be completed on my standard six in the very near future. Accordingly, I have the following paint/finish question: Does anyone know if the cast aluminum accessory housing was painted? If so, what is the correct color and finish (flat/gloss)? Just to be clear, this is the aluminum housing that the water pump, oil pump, generator, and distributor all bolt to on a '27 Dictator. All responses will be most appreciated. Respectfully, TomB
  12. If all the planets in the cosmos align correctly, my 1927 Standard Six engine should return to me next month with new babbiting. As this is my first Pre-war project, I am wondering if anyone on this forum would be so kind as to share the proper break-in procedure for my 1927 Dictator. I was also advised to use break-in oil with a newly assembled engine. Anyone have suggestions/comments regarding break-in oils; such as preferred brands or vendors that offer break-in oils? All replies are welcome. Thank you. Respectfully, TomB
  13. SMB:Thank you for your resonse. All leads are greatly appreciated.I suspect my '37 Dictator came to me with a replacement master cylinder. My car currently has a Wagner Lockheed master cylinder with casting number (as best as I can decipher) 6656. Can anyone identify this master cylinder? I suspect it is not the correct master cylinder for my car. I've heard the 1937 Dictator master cylinder was used on many different cars, so any interchange information would also be most helpful. Thanks again!Respectfully,TomB
  14. I'm hunting for the following parts for my 1937 Dictator: Master Cylinder Set of 4 Leaf Springs Overdrive Transmission & Driveshaft 5 x 16 Wheels with good wheel cover clips Recommendations for good sources for any or all of the above would be most appreciated also. Thanks, TomB
  15. Hi Terry: Well, I did that, except I used a gear puller. Instead of the flange coming off, the puller bent the flange. Truly the design of the devil. Tom
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