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About CAFoster

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 09/24/1944
  1. Tom, I had the rims down to bare metal, de-rusting and paint stripping with the molasses bath and some stripper followed by metal prep zink phosphate treatment and rinse. Some of the rims had pitted rust on parts of the sealing areas, so I ground these areas down smooth with a side grinder and sanded them with 120 discs, also around the air valve sealing area. To paint the rims , I used some fence wire tied to washers, threaded through the rim bolt holes to make a cradle and hung them on the hook of a ratchet strap tied to an overhanging tree branch. This allowed spinning the rim during th
  2. Tom, I just dropped my tank and removed the sender unit. I took a look inside using a small inspection mirror and fishing a small LED flashlight inside tank. The interior of the tank looked in excellent condition, there was a little of the orange deposit around the drain plug recess and on the left side, but this was not rust as it could be scraped away with a piece of copper tubing, its probably the deposit seen in carburetors left by leaded gas. I will probably just leave it alone and put a filter in the line. Dropping the tank wasn't too bad except the strap bolts sheared off trying to
  3. 23580R16 is available(Goodyear Marathon and others) used as trailer tires, they are 30.8" diam and 9.5" wide so they would be close in diam but wider.
  4. I found some blackwall 205/80R16 radial tires online for $93 which are now on sale for $80 plus shipping. This size is very close to the 6.50/16, about 1/2 less in diameter and 3/4" wider. This would make less than 1mph difference at 60mph. They fit in the trunk spare tire compartment. The photos show before and after the wheels were stripped, derusted, ground smooth on the sealing surfaces and epoxy primed and painted. I also brush painted over the rivets with 2ton type epoxy cement.
  5. Robin, It sounds like it might be a good candidate for the molasses rust removal system. You can look at the youtube videos by desertrodder I used this on my 36 Buick model 41 bypass assembly and it did the job, removing the rust and freeing up the valve. The fermenting solution is rather smelly, but it is amazing how it works. Chris
  6. Hi, I am fairly new to the forums. I have been restoring a 1930 model 68 and recently acquired a 1936 model 41. The 36 had very loose steering and grabby brakes. I have disassembled the front suspension and found a bad center bearing, badly worn upper arms, lower arms and inner shafts and bushings. The king pins were not as worn, but I will redo them also. I have not been able to find replacement inner shafts and bushings. Bob's has them for 1937,1938 and mine look like his catalog photo, but he said they would probably not fit the 36. The shafts have casting # F4295-5 showing from unde
  7. The fuel pump rod in question is a cam follower and should probably be a made from hardened tool steel. Michael's measurements indicate that you may be able to find precision ground 7/16 shafting from places like McMaster Carr or MSC Industrials to fabricate it with. Chris
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