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About N43

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    Rusty '50 Olds Series 76
  • Birthday 06/13/1947
  1. GM transmissions of that era had three basic mounting bolt patterns. Chevrolet had Powerglides, Buick had Dynaflow and the others had what's known as C-O-P for Hydramatics used in Chevys, Chevy trucks, Olds, Cadillacs and GMC's although the hydraulic "programming" was different". Many parts may interchange and a transmission parts supplier will know which. One big exception is that for few months when the Hydramatic plant burned down in 1954(?), Powerglides were used in Pontiacs and possibly other applications.
  2. Oldsmobile Club of America guys speak highly of Bill as the "go to" person. I would be interested to know where you find interior components for sale. I have a poverty trim '50 Olds club coupe that needs a complete interior. Thanks. Dick.
  3. Your description sounds like a 303, probably 1949 by the engine number but possibly 1950. They are essentially the same. The H suffix means it was built for a Hydramatic transmission. All 1949's were Hydramatics; if it hasn't been modified already, the crankshaft needs to be modified to accept a stick. If the tranny is a GM stick, there is a good chance it's the Cadillac/LaSalle unit Olds used only in 1950 that is alleged to be better than the Olds units. The Delco tag on the distributor, generator and starting motor, there should have date codes like 9F23 for 1949, June (6th month) and date
  4. Pardon my rambling. One of the first things you need is a 1950 Olds repair manual with all of the codes and part numbers. They can be found on the web for about $60. I have Olds buddies that drive all over the western US with stock and bored out Rocket engines and 4-speed Hydramatics. Early Rockets tore up Nascar in the early 50's. If you haven't already bought the Chevy setup, there are plenty of Olds Rocket V8 parts both new and used. You will save having to modify the setup to accomodate Chevy components and gain both collector car credibility and resale value. Run searches on Ebay, Hemmi
  5. Another hit: www.steelerubber.com. They advertise in the OCA magazine. Dick
  6. '49 - '50 88's are A-body cars and share some standard GM parts with Olds Series 76, Chevy and Pontiac. Check the Olds section in Hemming's. Try Kanter and "Chevy's of the 40's"; they both advertise in Hemming's and at hemmings.com or search for 1950 Oldsmobile rubber parts with Google, Yahoo, etc.
  7. BobOlds: Did you ever get an answer to the 1950 interior trim paint question? I need it to restore a 1950 Series 76. Thanks.
  8. Watch E-bay Vintage auto parts; several parts come up there. Start a Google alert that sends you a daily email: alerts are free. Watch Craigslist in large metro areas; I found a junkyard parting out am '50 Series 76 in the Houston area and 3x2 intake and carbs in the Sacramento area; be careful of scammers. Watch Hemmings for cars being parted out. I am restoring a '50 Series 76 Club Coupe. Thanks.
  9. They are probably not the same. I have had the items since August and they were never mated. The seller was planning to convert a Hydramatic car and bought a completed 98 hardtop instead. Thanks.
  10. Thanks for the feedback. The engines made for Hydramatics have an "H" suffix that my 303 does not have. The tranny supposedly has been bolted up to a 371 in the past. BTW, Costco was selling a DVD of stock car racers and the cover had (I believe) Richard Petty in a '57 Olds.
  11. If this has already been answered, please direct me to the right place. The searches I have run did not locate answers. It's posted on the Classic Olds forums, too. I have a choked up '50 303 that is said to be virtually the same block as a 324 and 371. The stick shift drivetrain is supposedly borrowed from Cadillac and unique to 1950. How much oversize is it safe to bore out a 303? What are issues to retrofit 324 or 371 heads and carb setups or is it even feasible? Some say it's a drop-in, others say bolt patterns, etc are different. Many thanks in advance.<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
  12. I thought about it, too. If it actually is the last surviving Series 76 Club Coupe, I will not modify it and probably sell it to someone who has the budget and motivation to make it a #1. It needs alot including a Hydromatic; the existing case appears to have been brazed.
  13. This thread is extremeley timely on three subjects: a dearth of tech and restoration data, originality, and disc brakes. I bought a 1950 Series 76 Club Coupe several months ago. I am a recovering Corvette person who gave up a 1954 that I owned for over 20 years. I am totally surprised at the lack of data e.g. part numbers, production dates and production numbers for colors and options beyond what is published in a maintenence manual and articles in Wikipedia and How Things Work. "Corvette people" know how many times the guy putting on right front wheels sneezed that day. (Almost!) I am an e
  14. I have a base model Series 76 Club Coupe that was assembled in January or early February 1950 in Lansing, Michigan. Are there any documents showing last production dates, last serial numbers or last body numbers? Only 2,499 vehicles were made in this model before it was dropped, probably early in the year. I have been digging thru Olsmobile info for several months and found very little on this subject. Thanks. N43
  15. Many thanks. Problem solved. The assembly is off the car; it is intended for putting larger 88 size brakes on the front wheels to support a V8. After applying generous amounts of penetrating oil. The adjusters freed up and the whole thing came apart. The linings separated from the shoes. The adjuster is shot but I need to rebuild the all four assemblir before putting them on the car. Thanks again.
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