Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by rsd9699

  1. More than 7 of either 18 or 19 inch diameter flex fanx. Look at pictures. 18 inch on left side 19 on right side. One fan in choice of size for $30.00 shipping included. Payment by money order. In a week or two I will list some early 1950'sTecumseh and Lehigh a/c compressors. Cleaning up my storage areas. Thanks Ron.
  2. Hi guys. I thank you for your comments and math. You are correct on mpg payback. The other thing I had hidden in mind was the wear and tear on the engine and transmission. Plus I wanted less engine noise. My first car was an 88 with 3.08 plains ratio. I traveled at 70 to 80 mph in those day as I do today. I still remember the roar of the direct drive fan. I solved part of that noise by using a 62 clutch and fan. What can I say except I am applying some of today's standards to an old car. I hope that if I have offended anyone please forgive me as that was not plan. Simply looking to for simple upgrades that give me some benefits like adding disk brakes. Ron
  3. I have a 3.42 currently and a 3.08 to swap in. But the books show something Like a 2.29 for the 57 to 64 years. Not sure I could find that ratio but such a swap to 57/58 would get me in a position to use it if I were to find it. The effort to swap a complete rear assembly is less than just the 3rd member (2 rear ends and two messes) and then I am stuck at 3.08. I would rather be under the car and spend $1000 than working for it. Its the thrill to make any car unique not to make a profit. The spring seats are not a real bother as the welding is minor but I can not find any measurements. Any body have anything laying around to sell or measure? Just think - passing gear at 85 rather than 72. Ron
  4. I did a 59 olds 88. Had to reach in and rotate the center carrier bearing bracket to top. Not easy.but doable with time and patience. Ron
  5. I personally have a 49 98 that I would like to add PS but have not really looked into it. I have searched for such a "swap". I have personally swapped a 53 PS into a 55 with no problems. I drove the pump off the wp pulley (changed from single groove to two.groove pulley). What year gear box or you using? Ron
  6. Yes they are basically the same for gaskets. Leaks are covered in service manual. You might try the pan screws for being loose. But new gaskets are the way to.go after all these years. Ron
  7. My need for speed is long gone but I would love to pass the gas stations. The 55 Olds hydra tranny has a long cast iron tail. Cut it and insert the guts for cable operated standard transmission overdrive unit? The Hollender interchange manual says 57/58 complete rear axle assembly will fit but no other details. The 57/58 is two inchers wider overall than 55. Are the leaf spring seats in the same place? Can I still use my stock wheels? Anyone done either of these two items? Laffs and comments welcome. Ron
  8. Just looking at parts book at the shapes of the firewall, it would not fit without modification. The 55-56 are cable operated where as the 57-58 are vacuum operated. Thanks for the info. Ron
  9. The part number for the 56 series is "5047903". It is very rare. A better choice is the 55-57 Chevy. Drill hole in Chevy slide switch. Thread the existing wiper control cable into the slide switch and adjust as needed to operate the 2 speed Chevy motor. Add a fused wire to supply power. I did this conversion back in 1972 on a 56 88 that I still have. Plug the vacuum pipe that is no longer needed. This mod works on most gm cars that are 12 volt. Parts are available to repair the Chevy motor. A squirt of oil in the vacuum motor will restore a lot of funtionality due to dried out grease. so verify that the vacuum part of the fuel pump is functioning properly. A bad diaphragm Will make for slow wipers and oil use by the engine and an oily exhaust. Ron
  10. Want to buy under hood evaporator a/c box out of 1956 Oldsmobile. Thanks ron
  11. Look in the parts manual to get the sizes (56 and newer) - I can give you Olds "kit" numbers. Olds used the same size (not given) on 52 through 55 p/s. Yours is 54 so you will still need to measure what you have an post it - I will look around for a supplier for more info. Ron
  12. Maybe the gas tank fuel filter is plugged up from 7 years soaking in old gas? Ron
  13. Pull the dip stick and smell for burnt oil, low oil level, test for water in the oil. Why did your uncle stop driving it? Ron
  14. Hopefully you kept the balls in the sequence that you removed them. if you have them mixed up it will be a chore to get things back the way it was. The balls could have "half" sizes and would have fun getting back the way things were let alone remove the slack. You need to measure all of the balls and put them in separate retainers. Shop manual will be of big help in replacing the balls. A rebuild shop should have an assortment as should a bearing sells location. Pictures will help. Ron
  15. 1956 to 1958 rear brake drum for a commercial car 56 caddy flower car - Thanks Ron
  16. I see what your asking for now. This is a flower car by Superior Coach. Per the 56 manual, the rear drums were modified to put the rear one inch into the air stream for better cooling, Also the axles are not flanged so a regular rear drums will not work. Thanks Ron
  17. The commercial cars are hearses, ambulances, limos, flower cars which is what I have and the year is 1956. Thanks for the reply. Ron
  18. Two 1962 starfire hub caps - $25 each - plus shipping costs. Thanks Ron
  19. Drivers side on the drum prefer'd but either side is okay. Ron
  20. My drum has a crack about 1/3 around the outer edge and eating the brake shoes up. Thanks - Ron
  21. Hello, I have tried many difrent brake drum removal tools on this 1956 CC and I am no closer to removing the drum than several months ago. I have heated the drum close to the axle, appiled pressure and still not freeing the drum. There is a keyway and key in placeo lock both parts togethere - I am at still no closer to even getting just a little play. Now the question is - could the drum and axle have threads and you punch the key into the area behind the drum???? Any one done this and pictures to help me along? Thanks - Ron
  22. Mr. zimmermann is correct. The commercial cars have an extra plate and longer lug bolts. Per the shop manual, it moves the brake drum out 1 inch on both sides to get greater cooling of the brake drums. Any help with this problem would be great! Ron
  23. I used some shim stock to verify the shoes are not sticking to drum. Can not check for grooves but the feeler gage did not 'HANG UP' on any of the positions I checked. Ron
  24. I have tried to remove the rear brake drums on this commercial car and tried heating/cooling/tapping the drum. It is still stuck as tight as when I first got the car. I would like to buy/rent the gm tool for brake drum removal. The tools usage spans 1956 thru 1959. Thanks Ron
  • Create New...