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stev1955

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Posts posted by stev1955

  1. Thanks to everyone for the ideas. I found I do have play in my steering box. I grabbed each tire and tried moving them in all directions. No movement in the rears and in the front I do get movement side to side and I can see the pitman arm moving maybe approaching half an inch. So that's my next step to adjust that. Pretty sure tie rod is good. The tires are Universals and maybe 10 years old so I'm hoping they are not bad and maybe will even out, as you can see by the tread in the pictures we don't put much miles on it. No heater in the car so I usually put the cover over it for the next couple months. Will check out various things when possible. Thanks

  2. Okay I checked the driveshaft and the builder had marked it with yellow paint and it appears to be in alignment.

     

     

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    I jacked up the front and stuck a magnetic light on the frame on the drivers side, and spun the left front tire and sure enough there was a flat spot maybe 3/16 deep in one spot. Before and after pics.

     

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    Also did the right front and it was the same, maybe 3/16 deep flat spot. I didn't do the rears because it was 25 in my garage and I hate the winter. But I see no reason they would be any different as I got them all at the same time. Would this be enough to cause such a strong vibration?

  3. The car has 2 universals on the driveshaft and I really don't know the angles they run at but I will check today if the universals  are out of alignment. I don't remember ever taking the yoke off the driveshaft but maybe I did and put it back out of sync with the rear. An out of round tire could be a possibilty too but how would you check for that if it's not visible to the eye?

  4. Thanks everyone. The driveshaft was built by a shop that does trucks of various sizes so I'm hoping there is no problem there. but I will check to see the if the  universals got aligned wrong over time of taking in and out. I have not checked the toe lately buf it was at 1/8" toe in last I checked. Paulrhd29nz I kept the original driveshaft.

  5.  1930 Essex with the 161c six L-head engine. After working on the carburetion of this engine for quite awhile I finally have it running better than it has for some years. Having done that, one problem I've always had with this car is I've never been able to go over 30 mph as I get a vibration that makes you want to take your foot off the accelerator. I'm not sure it will go a whole lot faster with the rear end ratio they had in these cars back then, this one is 5.1 to 1. I'm just hoping to just feel more comfortable at maybe 35-40. I have noticed the vibration in the steering wheel in general but it does not oscillate back and forth. But I also feel it in the seat. Pushing in the clutch does not affect it, still there. I replaced the kingpins recently with no play. I had a driveshaft with modern universal joints made also some time ago. So I'm hoping someone can steer me in the right direction on what could be th most likely culprit. Wheel bearings, axle bearings, unbalanced tires, transmission? It's approaching miserable in my unheated garage so I don't know how much time I have left to look into this but whatever guidance I can get is great.
     

  6. I will second the recommendation from 29Sixty. I put a new Zenith model 68 on my 30 Essex and it works very well. I ran across the information at the Durant club website ( not a member) while searching for information, and decided on the 68 as my engine is 161ci. Used the 14544 tag number. I could never get the original marvel carburetor to stop flooding, then I tried an Allstate Model A carburetor which I admit was for a bigger engine. So far so good.

  7. This will be my 3rd year going to Hershey and even though the wife and I don't live far away we're going to stay over and do two days this time. In the event of extremely bad weather what should we expect? I imagine a percentage of venders will always be there but what changes will we see? Thanks.

  8. Hello Per. Nice looking Essex you have there. In my case I just got an a proper sized brass elbow fitting and used it instead. The engine vacuum pulls the gas from the gas tank to the vacuum tank very well. I still don't understand how that original fitting was supposed to work (as it was) because you can see right through the hole marked by the arrow to the other side where the line attaches from the intake. That would make the intake vacuum line open to the air. Good luck with your project.

  9. If that Marvel carburetor is original it probably has a cork float that was sealed with shellac. I believe modern gasoline will dissolve the shellac and permeate the cork causing the carburetor to flood. Same problem on our 30 Essex with the Marvel carb. We had to go to a urethane foam float. Might be part of your problem.

  10. Thanks for the reply Mark. I went ahead and cut some paper gaskets from material I got from McMaster-Carr and used a thin coat of non-hardening sealer. Then tightened the nuts like I would a head bolts and so far so good, although I've only had the car out once since then.

  11. I'm preparing to put the water outlet manifold back on my '30 Essex thermosiphon motor and need to know if there is a certain tightening sequence for the nuts. There are six separate risers on the manifold that attach on the top of the head and I want to avoid any cracking issues when it heats and cools. Would it be like head bolts and start inside and work out?

    Thanks.

  12. Maybe they were filled to the brim and the heat caused them to overflow. If you find out why let us know. For now I'm just going to fill mine to where the piston is covered, as other posters have said, and maybe they won't leak too bad around the shaft. They do work as I can definitely notice a difference in the ride. My car is a driver and not restored so various things leak.

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