Dan Reed

Thanks guys! I followed your procedure Bloo and it worked perfectly. The car started right up once I determined the correct orientation of #1 spark plug in relation to the rotor position (or visa versa). I set the dwell and timing to the shop manual specs (without the vacuum advance line hooked up). Putting my timing light to it, the timing marks are lined up. However, Once I hook up the vacuum line the timing marks are off. I assume this is normal. Given the vacuum line is a hard-line, not flexible rubber, I'm assuming the vacuum advance would be disconnected for the initial timing. The shop manual procedure doesn't state.

Thanks!

Need some help with an Oldsmobile 303 V8 (1951). I just replace the points as well as inspected the rest of the components (vacuum advance, centrifugal weights). I replaced the distributor back in the engine and buttoned up everything, but I can't get the car to fire up. It appears the base of the distributor shaft is D shaped, so I figured it had to go back in the same alignment as it came out. Is it possible I have the rotor is completely out of phase? If so, how can I get the rotor in alignment with number 1 cylinder. As for firing order, the wires have not been removed from the cap, so firing order is still in tact.

Ok, check it out. I pulled the NEW points back out so I could do a visual compare between them and the old set. The NEW set, out of the box, were bent.

Thanks guys! I'll be working on it til it's done right.

Look at this photo, specifically the alignment of the points contacts. Why such a misalignment? This is an original 1951 Oldsmobile 303 V8. It's my 1st time changing points on this car and when I took the old points out there was no spacer, the contacts were in good alignment. This is my first-time changing points on a GM car of this vintage. My 1956 GM car had the distributor with the little window for adjustment. These older models are a challenge.

Yep, I bet "The 55er" is on to something. I did more searching and found the actual part number you are referring to with the item's photo (which looks exactly like it. Next time I fire up the car I'll have to see if it works. because there is a factory rear speaker.

Two points mentioned above were, control for rear speaker, and somebody said to trace the wires. My Olds does have a rear speaker. Regarding the wires, they go into the radio itself. Next time I get the car out I'll have to see if it effects the rear speaker at all. It's a 3 position knob so maybe [Front - Both - Rear] speaker selection. Interested to find out.

Anybody know what this knob is attached to the bottom of the radio in my 1951 Olds 98 sedan? It's a rotating knob with 3 position detents (notice the arrow on the face of the knob). Wondering if it is an upgrade from the 1950 antenna trimmer screw. The weather here in PA is still too crappy to fire the car up and get it out, so I haven't had the radio on to try the knob. Maybe next week. I've only had the car a month and just happened to see this mystery knob.

Yeah, I don't think that would fly today (checking the fluid with it in any gear). The manual tells you to block the front wheels (they show a rather large metal wheel chock) and apply the parking break. Yep, the dip stick is located under a pop-off plate on the right side of the trans hump.

Thanks for the replies. Neutral it is. I'm a volunteer at the AACA Library and was able to look through two period Hydra-Matic manuals, which stated check in neutral. Not sure why the Oldsmobile shop manual say check in Lo. That was the confusion. Yesterday was a decent day here in PA so I was able to get the car out on the road and make sure the trans level was topped off. It drove and shifted just fine.

I have a 1951 Oldsmobile 98 sedan with it's original hydra-matic. I have the factory 1951 Olds shop manual as well as an original 1946-1955 Hydra-Matic manual. Regarding checking the fluid level - The Oldsmobile shop manual says to check the fluid level with the shift lever in Low. The Hydra-Matic manual say to check with the shift lever in Neutral. Anybody know which is correct?

Anyone with an early 50s GM make ever find a source for original style carpet or mats? I have a 1951 Oldsmobile 98 sedan (similar body as 51 Buick Roadmaster and Cadillac series 62). My car is an original car and the interior floors are covered with a textured rubber mat, which at a glance looks like carpet. It is two pieces, one molded to fit the rear seat area and another one piece section covering the front floor. The rear looks great, but the front floor mat has suffered a lot of cracks. Probably in part due to the mat having to be pulled up out of the way to access the Hydra-matic dip stick.

Thanks Steve, ordered my issue today. And my buddy Joe Pep did the cover art! Dan Reed

Drove out to the AACA Museum in my '64 Cadillac before they are forced to close again due to gov. Wolf's covid restrictions. Not sure why museums like this have to be closed. I counted four other visitors in the museum the two hours I was there on a Friday afternoon. I could drive up the road to Home Depot and encounter 100 people under one roof, but they can remain open.

I want to see a CARFAX report on all those cars

I personally love driving a vintage Cadillac on road trips. I just had my'64 Sedan out this morning on a two hour round trip drive to Lancaster and back.

I too have '64 Cadillac (series 62 four window sedan). As a couple other have stated, i'd start with a simple thing first by giggling the wire harness from the battery to the starter, then to the fire wall. I had a '56 Cadillac that quit as I turned onto my street one day. Nothing worked, no lights, radio, starter, nothing. I had my wife bring out the truck and I towed it into the driveway and five minutes later it was running. Turned out to be a loose wire at one of the terminals on the starter. Tightened with a wrench and all was well. Here's another non-starting Cadillac issue that had me baffled for a bit. The car would sound as if it was going to fire up right away, but would quit as soon as I let go the the key. I did this over and over again until an idea clicked - the ballast resistor! Sure enough, a quick replacement of the ballast resistor and that did the trick. You didn't say whether or not you determined if it was in fact the sending unit that was causing the fuel gage not to read. I've swapped out sending units before without issue and I'm not sure what that would have to do with the car not starting. It would be a great deal of help to you to go on-line and get yourself a '64 Cadillac Shop Manual. You'll find the whole wiring diagram in it too! Oh, your initial problem was a faulty fuel gage so get yourself a few gallons of gas in the car to make sure you in fact have something in the tank. Let us know how you make out.

Craig, I'm very sorry to hear about your health issues. As many have stated, you are a great vendor to do business with and a gentleman to talk shop with as well. My last purchase from you was a fuel pump from you at Macungie last summer for my '64 Caddy and I was looking forward to seeing you at Ag Hall in January for Automania. Take care and I wish you the best of luck regarding your health and the sale of your inventory. Dan

Thanks for the info Trini.

Thanks everyone. Trini, I took your advise - I picked up an internally regulated 3-wire alternator and wired it up this morning. Charging correctly and all systems seem good to go. Car ran fine and GEN light operates as it should coming on momentarily only at startup (or if key is turned to run position).

I just replaced the alternator and voltage regulator on my "64 Cadillac. Everything seems to be charging correctly (12 volts at bat. with car off, 13-14 volts when the car is running) Odd problem is that the volt. reg. is causing the GEN light to come on while driving at certain rpms, it blinks on as I slow to a stop. Then blinks on again as I take off from a stop, but stays off while cruising speed. Then when I park and turn the car off the GEN light comes on! I can only get it to go off if I disconnect the four wire plug on the voltage regulator. What's the deal? Dan

Just talked to my buddy Ken from Ken's Memory Lane Automotive Literature. He's at space C4F 13-14 near light pole 46 on the Chocolate Field.

Hi everyone, I'm new to the forum, but not new to the AACA. I thought I would share an image of the painting I created for this year's AACA Night At The Museum auction. The painting also features three of the cars currently in the museum's new Ash and Maple Marvels - 1947 Nash, 1942 Buick, and 1947 Pontiac. Dan