Ken Sogge

Members
  • Content Count

    10
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

10 Good

About Ken Sogge

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 01/24/1941
  1. Problems I am having with my 1940 Buick Special. I like to resolve things on my own, partially because I am on a limited budget. A very significant problem with exhaust manifold cracking was successfully resolved, largely with advice I got here on the PWD blog. I published a memorandum on that resolution here. [*]Draining the engine block -- Numerous attempts have failed. The block drain was just a threaded hole when I got the car. I poked around many times with a wire and only got a greasy wire. I applied 80 pounds of air pressure (after opening and draining the radiator) and had no result. I was hoping for some bubbling sound, but got no sound at all. [*]Reinstalling the door handle lift spring -- I replaced some broken glass on the driver’s door. A coil spring associated with the door handle fell into the door while removing the handle. I retrieved it. Removing the door upholstery does not allow me enough access to replace the door handle lift spring. The door handle works fine, but "slumps" in rest position. Is dangling the spring on a thread the approach I should take? Which way should the spring cog be facing? [*]Calibrating the speedometer -- I needed to replace the backing templates on all gauges. The speedometer needle kept falling off and eventually got lost. I made one from some sheet plastic and a hollow rivet. I can make it read fairly accurate at 40 MPH. When it goes over 50 it has a mind of it’s own and easily rolls up to 80 MPH (I’m guessing I am going less than 60). Is the weight of the needle a factor here? Adding weight seems to make no difference. Would dissembling the whole mechanism and cleaning it help? Is sending it to a rebuild shop (expensive) the only resolution? [*]Non banjo style horn button assembly -- My Special does NOT have a banjo style horn button. The spring inside of the steering column does activate the horn. Many of the parts are present. The rubber seals are cracked and brittle. No sign of any spring or cushioning apparatus. The horn button comes off without any provision for keeping it in place. I cannot find information on what parts make up this horn, or where I can find parts that are missing.
  2. I have finally resolved my problems with the exhaust manifold. I learned a lot from this blog. I adapted a lot of the ideas I got here and resolved the mess. I have written a step-by-step procedure for installing an exhaust manifold. It is two pages long. I will attempt to post it here. if it does not get hooked on, send me an email address and I will send it back to you as a Word attachment. Attachment did not work for some reason. Ken ksogge@frontiernet.net
  3. I am looking for knobs for a 1940 radio. Bobs has 1937 and 1938 knobs, but nothing for 1940. Also, I need information about a radio arial for 1940.
  4. I have responded to Rich in La Center WA and hope we can make a transaction. I am in Scandia, MN (about 40 miles north of St. Paul) How about a temp gauge? Mine came apart.
  5. Tell me more about the spring washers, lubricant sealers and how to obtain same. Bob's does not list either. Maybe a repaired manifold would survive with these additional considerations. I'm sure that torquing has been part of my problem here. Even after planing the manifold, I bet I torqued it too tight. Bring on those ellusive spring wahers! I appreciate the advice. Maybe there is a light at the end of this tunnel. Would I still use the intake rings? I guess I don't understand how the exhaust manifold can move when expanding. I'm sure it has to expand.
  6. What is the recommended torque for mainifold bolts? My shop manual does not specifiy. If I buy a NEW exhaust manifold, will it match up OK with my old intake manifold? Is there an allowance for one to be machined more than the other?
  7. Resellers tell me that the exhaust manifold for my 1940 Special is the same for 1939 through 1953. Is that true? If so, why are so many of the available used manifolds cracked? Didn't Buick ever figure out how to make an exhaust manifold that would not crack? Also, why are the reproduction exhaust manifold so expensive ($695 and up)? Is there a reasonable alternative here? I have had my manifold braised with bronze twice and it cracked again, right beside the repair. Help!!
  8. I ordered one from Bob's in July. On checking the status, they tell me they have no source for the lens. I cannot figure out why the left is different than the right, but they say they are. Neither is in stock. HELP !!