scot

Why not just ask him if he can have it completed by xx/xx/xxxx. If he says no, then say then I need to take the car. If he says yes, hopefully he does it. If not, take the car and move on. I went through the same thing with a body shop. They got it sanded and some primer and it sat in the corner of the garage and collected dust. Did as I suggested above. He said it was on his back burner. So, I took the car elsewhere.

I believe this to be true! I will take a look and see if the jacket can come up enough to maybe get at the upper bearing where the horn wire is soldered to. If not, I am cuttning the wire and putting a remote horn button in. Hate doing that but it is not a show car so!!

Well, it certainly looks similar. Not sure how that bearing is to come out though. I tried using a pick but no way it will pull up.

Thanks for replying auburnseeker. Is the hub ring in the steering column? How do you get it out?

Hello, so on my 1940 Oldsmobile series 90. I have the steering weel off. If I hook up the battery the horn blows. Now, in the engine compartment, if I wiggle the wire going into the steering column it will stop, then if I put the weel on and turn it slightly it blows again. I am assuming the wire is shorting out. How do I get the wire out? Where is it connected? With the wheel off, I do not see a wire and the manual does not speak to this. I am tempted to bypass the wiring and install a horn button under the dash! Really hate doing that though. Any help? Thanks, Scot

Used or nos. I do not have a part number.

Looking for the gravel guards that go on the front of the rear fenders behind the rear passenger doors. 1940 Olds Series 90. Thanks, Scot

Hello, yes I did that. still no luck. Ended up taking the insturment cluster out of the dash to get the new wires on. Still have not finished it all! Thanks for replying. Scot

Any ideas on how to remove the ignition switch on my 40 Olds Series 90?

SO, what I did was undo two barrel nuts from the instrument cluster and pushed it towards the firewall. I then removed four nuts from the dash section that the light switch is attached to and pull it toward the steering wheel. This gave me access to the wires on the switch. Now on to the instrument wiring!

I have had a post on the Olds section for weeks with no answer yet! Seems to be the best kept secret on a 1940 Olds!

Hello, I am in the middle of replacing the wiring harness on my 1940 Oldsmobile Series 90. I can not get the headlight switch removed to get to the wires. I have pushed down on the spring steel that the rod is going through but no success. Is there a way to remove the switch without taking the dash apart? Thanks, Scot

Hello, I am at a loss. Putting in a new wire harness on my Series 90. I can not for the life of me get the headlight switch out. Pushing down on what feels like a spring steel piece that is over the switch rod. Will not release the rod. Any ideas, photo of what I am supposed to be pushing on? Thanks in advance. Scot

Very nice condition 81 MB 300SD. Paint is glossy with no rust. Interior in very nice shape. New glow plugs and realay, flex discs, Bilstein shocks, alternator. Runs and drives very well. I am the second owner. Bought it in 2002 with 145,000 miles, my wife drove it a few years. We then put vintage tags on it and then antique tags. Ended up taking the antique tags off and putting regular PA tags back on and drove the car to commute 80 miles per day. Never let us down once. Now has 271,000 miles on the 5 cylinder turbo diesel. Tires have excellent tread. PA state inspected till 4/13. Great driver or? If I can figure out how to put up pictures I will. Here is a link to the craigs list add with pictures. !!!1981 MERCEDES BENZ 300SD TURBO DIESEL!!! Asking $4,900.00 Thanks, Scot Ash 717 341 7068 scotrvmarine@comcast.net

Too funny.

I use about 1 gallon of diesel to a tank of gas in my 40 olds 8 cylinder. Slows down the evaporation of the gas and I would guess adds lubrication which is what lead was for.

I have had success with adding 1 gallon of diesel to a tank of gas. (was suggested by someone on these forums when I had the same issue) Kinda returns todays gas back to its far oilier past! Slows down the evaporation and serves as a top cylinder lubricant. Of course this works as long as the issue isn't what was outlined by NTX5467 above. Scot

Just like the one on my 40 Series 90!

Did you try Fusick?

In response to Jim Edwards post above. 1. "Assuming an initial investment could be held to $50,000 (not likely)" I posted previously that I have a nice Holiday Rambler (one of the better built brands) diesel coach for $36,000. Not a fluke as this is at a dealer. Many of them are out in the world at that price. 2. "Plumbing in a Motorhome can be the cause of a lot of issues and make for something that must be carefully tended to in any climate where freezing temperatures are common for even a couple of nights/days out of the year, whether being used or not." Winterizing a Motorhome's plumbing system takes 15 to 30 minutes (depends on the model/make/components) once you know what you are doing. Just a few gallons of RV antifreeze. If you are using the Motorhome Home during freezing weather the furnace keeps plumbing from freezing. (some gas Motorhomes this is not true) 3. "Then there are generators which will always present issues because of today's gasoline and carburetors developing issues" The only Motorhome that would tow the weight that is being discussed is a diesel. Therefore the generator is going to be a diesel (no carb or ethanol) or possibly (not likely) a propane unit which would not suffer from the ethanol fuel issues. As long as a generator is run underload monthly, very few issues are had. It is the generators that sit that are problems. Just like a car that sits and is not exercised. 4. "You may only save around 50% on food cost if you are lucky, the bed will unlikely be as comfortable as a good motel/hotel and who the heck enjoys taking a shower in a 2 X 3 foot stall with a very limited hot water supply?" 50% depends on you. However, you are more than likely going to eat healthier and better than depending on a resteraunt daily. As far as the bed. When was the last time you were in a Motorhome? What do you want to sleep on? No problem with putting in a memory foam mattress, select comfort mattress or a pillow top mattress. All the same options at home except a water bed. Best part is there is no one elses DNA on the mattress! (we sanitize mattresses and upholstory before selling) Also, I am not wondering if the maid used the same wiper on the commode as she did on the glasses, sink etc. in the bathroom. (this has been captured on hidden cameras and been on TV if you dont't think this happens) As far as a 2 X 3 shower. How wide is you shower/tub at home? Many showers are larger than that in a Motorhome. As far as limited hot water, many ways to have more than enought hot water. Most Motorhome water heaters can run on propane and 120 Volts. When you run it on both at the same time you greatly increase the hot water supply and recovery rate. Want unlimited hot water? Put in a tankless water heater. I have taken plenty of showers in RVS and have not run out of hot water. Jim, not trying to pick a fight with you. Just annoying when people comment on Motorhomes and RVS in general when their information is out of date or just assumptions, or from others out of date experience. RVing in general grew during the economic downturn specifically because of it being a very economical way to travel and more enjoyable way to travel. Better visibility than a car or PU truck, more conveinent also. Bathroom is there, microwave, and you do not need to pack and unpack suitcases etc. I am not trying to sell one from me. As I said previously, there are many Motorhomes available. Also in response to Bleach's comment about the conversion van. Be careful as many times the weight carrying and tow capacity is greatly reduced from it's non converted state due to the added weight of the body conversion and added goodies that get put into the van by the converter. Just my two cents. Probably not even worth that though! Scot

" Stay away from a V-10 Ford" From AIK's post. This is true of the earlier Ford V10 engines. Sometime around 2001 or 2002, I believe they corrected this issue by making the heads thicker thus having the ability to put more spark plug threads in the head. Also changed the plug replacement interval down from 100,000 miles. Class A diesels can be had very resaonably. I have a nice HR for $36,000. Plenty of them out there. When you take into consideration that you can cook your own meals, sleep in your own bed, shower in your own shower, you can't beat a motor home. Best, Scot

Hello, Don't do it. I sell motor homes for a living. All above are valid points. The tow rating on that HR is only 5,000 Lbs. No matter what you do you are opening your self up to liability issues if you are over weight. What you need is a diesel pusher with a tow rating of 10,000 Lbs. Not all diesel pushers are rated at 10,000! Actually. the best vehicle would be a Super C motor home with diesel engine. Typically a Kodiak chassis GM. Shorter than what you will find in a diesel pusher with 10,000 Lb tow capacity. Best Regards, Scot

Air shocks were standard equipment on a 1981 Chevy ElCamino! Scot

Here is a link to multiple pictures of the trunk latch from my 40 Olds Series 90 that you requested. Pictures by scotrvmarine - Photobucket Good luck and hope these help. Scot

Do you still need the picture of the inside trunk lid lock? I have an Olds Series 90, 1940. Let me know and I will take a picture for you. Best, Scot