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About agriffey

  • Birthday 01/26/1937

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  1. I still have a good used master cylinder, a transmission that was in a car that I drove, I have most engine parts except manifold, & carb. No lifters but I have a reground cam & crank with new main bearing inserts. Block is bored +.080.
  2. Sorry, the parts car came without manifolds, carb or air cleaner.
  3. I have a 248 block just bored to +.080", a fresh crankshaft never assembled since it was reground, I have a usable transmisson that was in the car when I first drove it, also a reground camshaft and large 248 water pump. The cylinder head has one small crack that didn't seem to bother anything when we drove before replacing the engine. I no longer have the parts car. Email or cell works for me. Aaron Griffey, HAYWARD, CA. agriffey@yahoo.com 510-415-1219
  4. Sorry it took so long to reply, I had to regiser and get on the site because you did not email me direct. I need $45 including shipping for a good '40 Buick Special?Super throw-out bearing fork.
  5. The cowl vent was shipped Dec. 8th.
  6. I do not have the car anymore. The speedometer is in terrible condition. The face was almost non-existant. Sorry.
  7. It's not an issue with an old engine either. The detergent oil will not loosen all that sludge and plug the oil passages. If it did loosen the sludge all that oil pressure would push it right through the oil galleries. You can not go wrong with 10-40 or 10-30 in a used engine. Straight 20 is what was called for 'in those days'. Although I would run 10-40 Accel from Walmart because it has plenty of ZDDP, even though we may not need itin cars with low tension valve springs. For break-in you can add a bottle of cam break-in to any modern oil to get the ZDDP and after that just use your favorite oil. My favorite oil is whatever is on sale or cheaper than the next. It all has to meet certain specs. If I could get 5-30 with plenty of ZDDP I would use that, but there is none so I'd go to the Accel 10-40 or any other oil for SF or SJ rating like motorcycle oil. If you think 10-40 is too light for your engine then you can go to roofing tar or Penrite 20-50 for old cars.. I've seen cars that had been run 40 years with non-detergent and then switched to detergent because there was so much crud in the oilpan that it would only hold half as much oil as it was supposed to. The owner ran high detergent oil and changed every 500 or 600 miles for several years and it never loosened any of the sludge. We had to pull the pan and scrape it out. I've seen that happen too many times. That idea of detergent oil loosening every thing is an old wive's tale. And speeking of old wives and tales....never mind.
  8. I have a four door 9140 Buick model 40 parts car. Nice cowl vent door with excellent screen $40 includes shipping, directional light from trunk led with back lights from behind lid, has excellent badge & 2 chrome strips but lenes are faded $40. Nice headlight switch knob and cigarette lighter $20 each. Have brake drums, wheels, complete rear end assy. and seat springs. Complete front suspension all rebuilt since car was last run. Aaron Griffey (510) 415-1219 agriffey@yahoo.com
  9. That's the kind of stuff I like to see people post. That is seriouse info. Many Thanks to you Tom. I did not know that.
  10. Sad story: I once had a lady bring a nice Opel to my shop because there was a headlight problem. No headlights. She had torn the dash and instument panel apart trying to find the problem. After she mentioned that the high beams worked I installed a new sealed beam and it worked fine. So i installed the other one too and all was well again. The owner was just sick that she had ruined a really nice car by tearing into it in all the wrong places. I suspect she had been driving for some time not knowing one headlight was out, when the other one went she expected major money to repair.
  11. If you get a loose battery connection while driving at speed with the lights on the generator can suddenly go to maximum charge-or higher- and burn out some lights. Many times folks drive for months on one headlight and then when the other one burns out they suspect a major problem. There is one wire going from the dimmer switch forward to a juntion block for the dims. Same for high beams. a $3 test light can save you lots of grief.
  12. Just because you drove your roller tappet 2001 Rollscanhardly 436,000 miles with no engine problems does not mean you can use that same oil in a flat tappet car and get the same results. Now we may not need all that ZDDP in our early flat tappet low valve spring pressure engines but then I just play it safe and get the Accel oil at WALMART for 2.38 a qt. It comes in 10-40 and is for cars '88 and older(flat tappet) and is SF rated, which means it is the older formula which has pleanty of ZDDP. Spending any more money on oil is a total waste of money. Those oils all meet the same specs. This is not the forties anymore. I liked Castrol and Valvoline too, but now I would not spend the extra money to buy either brand. The cars we are conserned with here were suposed to use SAE 20 in warmer weather. 10-40 is plenty heavy, maybe too heavy.
  13. Thanks for that Bill. Saves me a lot of trouble and wondering. The serial number of the Special matches the title, the engine from the Super does not match the Super's registration so I guess you are right... It has had an engine change in the past. I will get the NAPA 5 blade flex fan though.
  14. A Buick restoration shop told me to get a 5 blade fan at a NAPA store for those cars. He said it is a flex fan with wider blades.
  15. I just removed the tired engine from a '40 Buick Super and am installing a rebuilt from a '40 Special. The old Super engine had a larger water pump and larger pulley than the engine I am putting in. What's the story here, was it a later pump on the Super? Should I use the larger pump? How about the large pump and the small pulley together? The smaller pulley will make the fan run faster. I'm new to these old Buicks. Please help.
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