mjames

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Everything posted by mjames

  1. Thank you for your help keiser
  2. I have a 52 chrysler windsor deluxe for sale, i am asking 3,800 or best offer. The car is in Sandyville, Ohio..US. The engine was just redone this past winter,there is a new master cylinder,all new brake lines, brake cylinders,all new shocks and new wiring.There is a new stainless duel exhaust as well as 4 new tires. The car is complete. The front floor was replaced, there is some body work under the back and front lights. The doors and other body parts are solid. The radio does not work as well as the clock. The gas gauge needs a new sending unit but all other gauges work. There is a dent on the drivers side front fender which i have pictured. The interior is all original, the seats have seat covers on them. The floor has a nos mat on the back floor. The door panels and headliner are stained and show signs of age. Trying to upload pictures which did not work, i can email pictures if interested The engine is a chrysler 265 with a fluid-matic transmission. The car starts right up and drives and shifts great. Clear ohio title Feel free to contact me with any questions. cell# is 330-459-9432, email is mjames91966@yahoo
  3. c49er, your were absolutely correct. I took it apart and cleaned every contact point. Put it back together and low and behold, it turned right over with the key. Thank you Frank,Rusty,Joe and especially c49er for all your help.
  4. I checked and rechecked....gonna try one from napa....i will update....thanks for every bodies help.
  5. Frank, there is a "relay / resistor" device that is mounted on my air cleaner support, which is where the wires for the Fluid-Matic are connected to. You are correct for saying that the wiring diagram pictures come from the 51-52 chrysler manual i have and the separate wiring schematic came from the wiring harness for the carb,trans. I just wanted to add that this problem started last year before i had ever touched anything on the car, one day it worked the next day it didnt. Not sure if that means anything or not.
  6. Cb is correct in that it is a carter BB. I have the same carb on my 52 chrysler windsor. It works with the Fluid matic. In my 51-52 shop manual it shows the carb# as E9A1 which is equipped with a kickdown switch and the magnetically-controlled dashpot(slow closing throttle), is used with the Fluid-Matic trans. You should be able to find the carb# on the other side of where it is marked "MFD. by carter"
  7. Frank and Rusty, this is the diagram from the manual for c-51, and the diagram for the trans and carb that i had when i replaced those. Not sure if this helps at all. But i thought it might clarify things. Thank you.
  8. Thank you Frank, i will give that a try. My dash is out of the car right now so all wires are accessible( i am checking any and all wires for breaks, or bare wires). I have read many posts on this site for the Fluid Matic trans and also in my manual, i will continue to read up to gain knowledge.
  9. I thought about the key switch, but ruled that out because when the key is turned i can hear a click at the relay on the fender,which i am assuming that the power is getting that far but not making it from that point down to the solenoid. Is there a way of checking the key switch such as "hot wiring" so i can eliminate that as the problem?
  10. Thank you for clarifying things for me Frank. That is the only way to start the car right now, is to turn the ignition key to on,and using the screwdriver to go from the big contact to the one directly above it like you suggested.(a trick my dad showed me) I just want to be able to use the key to start my car:( I already learned the hard way to make sure to put the top back on and the correct way, of which i was left a nice mess to clean up.
  11. Here we go....excuse the messiness, i am still putting things back together. I have followed the wiring schematic from the Chrysler manual and it shows the solenoid wire going from the solenoid on the starter to the terminal on the relay.
  12. Thank you Owen. Thats hooked up correctly then.
  13. Thank you all. Frank this is my first pre-56 mopar, but luckily i have a motors manual (from my father) and a chrysler shop manual, so i got the wiring down correctly. I tried doing like you suggested with removing the field terminal and jumping it, but no luck. My starter relay is located on the drivers side fender well and has 1 large post for the battery and according to the book the ammeter and battery terminal on the horn relay, it has 3 smaller posts one is marked for ignition, one is marked for armature going to the armature post on the voltage regulator, and one is marked for solenoid. I have replaced the voltage regulator and the horn relay,also all wiring has been replaced. I do have a question about the generator though, would the larger of the 2 terminals be the field or armature. There is no marking,i have a 12 volt generator that atleast has an F to mark the field terminal, but my 6 volt has nothing. One terminal is larger than the other. I had went to Napa to pick up a starter relay, but after looking at it i never got it. It was 6 volt but it had 2 large terminals, and 2 small. The kid at the store said that 1 large terminal was for the battery, the other large one was to go down to the solenoid, and he said that one small terminal was for the ignition and the other was marked for acc.,which he said i could hook anything left up to such as my voltage regulator.
  14. i have a 52 chrysler windsor and am having a problem finding a starter relay for it. There are 2 on ebay,but both are over 300. Being on a very fixed budget my question is this. Is there something that will work till i find a correct one in my budget. After searching the net the only thing that keeps showing up are relays for old ford tractors. I have 4 posts on the original one,a main terminal for battery and starter, a small terminal for the solenoid on the starter, a small terminal for the voltage regulator,and a small terminal for ignition.
  15. No worries Rusty, i can understand your frustration. I feel the same way sometimes when i help my nephew work on his 80 something Firebird. What i think is easy or common sense puzzles him. But again i do thank you for always willing to help.
  16. Welcome.....Good choice for a project as i purchased a 52 last year and absolutely love it. I agree with Rusty when he says get a repair manual, i found a reproduction on ebay for 20 bucks. This forum is full of experienced helpful people willing to help. I am new to 50's era cars and there experience is invaluable. You will find that original parts are not as readily available as say Fords or Chevy's. They are out there though on Ebay, swap meets, and as jazzer says donor cars. Sometimes pricey and sometimes cheap. Good luck and have fun
  17. Thank you Paul. I do feel like an idiot though, i have worked on cars for years from the 60's to present,but never a car from the 50's. I just had a brain fart. I took every thing apart in October and put in corner till it needed fixed, replaced or just cleaned up,the ring just got lost at the bottom of pile and do to my inexperience with the canister i just forgot. But i do appreciate your knowledge and willingness to help me Rusty and everybody else who contributes to those of us with lack of knowledge in certain areas.
  18. Thank you for your response Rusty. I was sitting here watching t.v. last night and thinking what i coulda done wrong when putting engine back together,then it came to me...I forgot to put the clamp ring around the top of the canister..duh. Problem solved...lol
  19. Hello, i am looking for a 6 volt starter relay that goes on the inner fender well for a 1952 chrysler windsor.
  20. Hello all, ok now that i got the motor running i have another problem. The engine i have has the full flow oil system. Once i start the engine the top pops off after about 10 seconds and oil spills every where. I tried 3 different times, once with a filter and once without the filter. I even tried to hold the top on by hand but the pressure just popped it off. I took the canister off the block and checked the 2 holes that go into the block from the canister by blowing air thru them just to make sure they weren't clogged, all clear. Now i am stumped. what would cause this?
  21. Thank you Rusty, karkrazy and Jack, it was the ground wire in the distributor...Something so simple driving me crazy.
  22. I need help again, i still have no spark, i tried 2 different condensers and a new set of points. I have tested the coil and it does have current when ignition is on. Am i missing a ground somewhere? I have checked,re-checked and checked all the wiring,everything is hooked up according to the wiring diagram in the manual. I have checked and traced all wiring for ignition for breaks and shorts. Anybody have any ideas?
  23. Thank you Albert and Rusty, thats what i thought but just wanted to double check. I can eliminate that as a cause for no spark,so now i can look for other sources.
  24. Hello all, I just spent the winter rebuilding the straight 6 engine in my 52 chrysler windsor and when i went to try and start it yesterday i got nothing. I am pretty sure there is no spark. My question is this,i know the ignition system runs as a 6v positive ground but since i replaced the original 6v coil with a 6v coil from a different vehicle that is a negative ground i am wondering if there is a difference. does the original chrysler coil work any differently than the new one i put on. Meaning is the original coil the same as my new one as long as they are both 6v and i followed the correct wiring that is needed? Or do i need a coil that is specific for a positive ground, to get spark? Thank you,Mike