30DodgePanel

I don't know if this will help but this is the information I have saved for when I get ready to rebuild mine for my truck. Yours kit is a different model, and vehicle but I believe the instructions for seating the leather paddle would be about the same. Do you have any instructions with yours ? I know it seems like a dumb question but I can't tell from my end what you have that your looking at. Take a look at this photo and see if the instructions help at least guide you in the right direction.

This book tells me the same info as the instruction book, repeating everything we've discussed but for the earlier E series DA-120 specifically

Yes it's bound with 3 metal tabs. Simply straighten out the tabs on the last page by squeezing them together just like file folder, then slide one would have had to remove that pin, open to the page they wanted to change and insert the correct updated page then put the pin back in yada ya.... and yes it would have potential fell apart which is why I'm guessing it's in this condition. The tabs are still inserted into the binding but the tape must have been to attempt to keep it from moving so much I would think. Who knows...

I was confused because I do not have those books. Here is the 3/4 ton parts list book and the intro page. Edit: I have 2 of these same books with different additional and missing information in both. Although this intro page shows up in one it does not in the other.

So am I right to at least assume that the car keys were round and that the trucks were hex shaped (both BASCO's) from all indictations ? I figured that everyone has been through this from what I've read in the past but I guess I was just hoping that the answer had been found mysteriously somehow. Doubt if I'll throw my hands up in the air though, there is an answer out there somewhere, just a matter of finding it. Could take years but we'll find it. Thanks for help Dave

It's funny, this is EXACTLY the type of scenario I was thinking of when I made the hefty purchase of that original "Final Edition" MPB months ago. My reasoning behind reaching to pay for it was that "the information was surely more complete than any other publication for these trucks " but that obviously has proven to be wrong. Still glad I bought because of the Canadian and RHD info it has in it but the missing pieces of information are puzzling to say the least. But I believe your right, the pedals are more than likely original to your truck, just wish we could find that number and more info on the DE. The DA-120 falls right below that number range, it's 522177 so where did the 78 and 79 go and why is there no mention. Like you say, it is what it is and I'm sure it had to do with that grey area of the transition period.

Good luck with the sales. Looks like a very educational compilation of hard work on your behalf. Let me know when the work on the next volume begins and I'll let you start off with my 1930 Panel truck. Your welcome to any photos and historical research I've done on it, if you want that is ... My truck was pulled from the woods in Massachusetts and I've traced my family history to Scituate Mass circa 1640 if any of that matters. Again, good luck with the sales and congradulations on getting it published. Dave

I believe the chassis are the same also, as you said only the body is different. Thanks for the heads up by the way on the manifold. When I do pull the manifold off I think I'll soak it for a long time then ease into it. Took the head off and I've let the pistons soak for the last month or so. The oil is creeping down into the lower crank, it's taking a while but at least I know the oil is penetrating and getting lower, so far I've used a quart total so I know it's creeping. Some have said to use kerosene, diesel fuel and other methods but I'm in no hurry and I don't want to do any more damage that may have already been done from when it locked up originally. The good news is my cylinder walls seem to be very, very smooth. The pistons and valves all look good and in tact with no breaks or bad pitting or rust anywhere. Carbon build up on top of the valvles and pistons but the inards are pretty clean surprisingly. That truck engine will free up someday, I just don't want to rush the process or break any thing other than the bolts and heads of bolts, those can always be replaced fairly simply. And yes, I've broken plenty already even though I'm being very careful and making sure to soak with PB blaster for days at a time.

What kit and parts number is it? Also, what year and make of vehicle is it going in ?

As it was once said : "You can't be to careful,,,, alot of bad drivers out there". Funny, the horse walked right out there as if to say "YEAH YEAH YEAH, you people with your fancy four wheels think your special".... Definately a horse that just didn't care anymore.

I'm still not showing a listing for either one of those parts. Did you find a listing for them that confirms they are for the truck applications ? If so, where did you locate it ? if not I wonder if they may have came from a car application at one point and transferred over to the truck trans ? I don't have any DB car literature but I believe others do and may be able to help in that regards.

I had someone tell me on another board that " My original keys are Briggs and Stratton and I do have the DB on them, it really has nothing to do with the code " If that's the case then it would seem impossible to have a key made up without a code because according to this view there is no code to begin with, or maybe he's saying you simply don't need the code. nobo, if your reading this maybe you can ellaborate on that a little more on this board because I'm really unclear of what you mean by that statement. How would one go about getting the correct key made if no code is needed ?

I've only found one other reference other than what you've already added and that is that the 4 cylinders in the 124" wb used United Motors as opposed to the 6 cylinders that used the North East electrical components (see photo below from the 4 and 6 cylinder intruction booklet) but I cannot speak to anything for car coils as my literature is only geared to trucks. Haven't located where they mention the 4 cylinders to have Delco Remy components for anything so I'm unclear of where you found that in the Oct 29 parts listing. The parts books I have specific for the " 124"WB " only list the type of part and the part number no photos and mention of any keys by letters, numbers or design/shape. For instance, heres how it's listed: Coil - Ignition (is how it's listed in the index). Then when I go to the page number 34 it shows the following Ignition coil assembly - 522783 Ignition switch (with keys) (distributor) -517603 Ignition switch (with keys) (magneto) - 519508 I should note that this parts book is specific for 3/4 ton 124"wb DB trucks showing the correct frame numbers for the 29-30 range for the E series trucks and at the opening it shows a factory illustration of my Panel truck, same as my avatar which is the only factory photo I've found to date. After studying it breifly I realized that the F series frames were not included thats why I gave the range 29-30 because as far as I can tell that was the only year the U-124 and DA-124 were produced. Unfortunetly the 2 originals I've found to date are only half complete meaning in the index they both end with parts listed at the letter H and abrubtly ends at H. I assume the reason for this was because of the instruction at the opening of these books. As you know it reads "The new sheets contained in this package should be inserted in the cover and the old sheets of corresponding page numbers removed and destroyed".. So if I want to find any parts by index of words starting with the letters I up to Z I have to search thru the book for parts names and if I'm lucky the parts names and numbers appear. For instance "Windshield Frame", it's not listed in either of my 3/4 ton parts indexes but you can find mention of it later in the book as you flip thru the pages. So the 2 copies of the "parts specific to my truck" are both different and incomplete as you warned me they would be at the onset of my research. It should also be noted that the inserted pages have the date at the top of the pages as "corrected Dec. 15 1930". The original pages were labeled "Published October 1, 1929" as you know. The MPB in the photo is the version that covers Canadian and RHD info as well. So i've looked everywhere I can think to look for this key answer. What am I missing ? I'll take the coil apart later today to see if any numbers appear that may be significant.

I stand corrected - Terraplane is a match. Plymouth is very close but there is a ridge on the outer upper section of the Plymouths, but the one your showing doesn't have that, it looks smooth.

34 Plymouth

Thanks Jason. No worries, I'll keep the non working coil for the truck until I've studied this fully even though the pot metal is in pieces, and missing a good chunk and the inner connector is missing. As for the book, I do have an instruction book specific for the 4 and 6 cyl 124" wb trucks. The only mention of the key is the following. " Keys and locks are numbered and the lock numbers should be noted so that in case of loss or breakage new keys may be obtained. The lock number does not show on the outside of the lock". and "The ignition switch on the Dodge Brothers 3/4 ton truck is operated by a key so that when the ignition is shut off for stopping the engine, it is a simple matter to lock the vehicle by removing the key". then later in the same book it reads: "The key number should be noted so that keys may be replaced in case of loss or breakage. The lock number is not shown on the outside of the lock" . That tells me a.) the key may not of been permanently inserted b.) that the key number should be located somewhere but not visible on the outside of the lock Tomorrow I'll take it apart again to see if I can find some numbers inside the cylinder. I'm guessing I just didn't look in the right place or close enough. BTW: The reason I say the truck one is seized is because it's as if the pot metal melted together on the outer ring of the cylinder. When your looking at the key hole there is no gap where the key cylinder should turn at the face plate like in the photo of the coupe coil. Heres the book I pulled the info from:

I thought this is the one he was talking about. Projects 1923 graham pickup - THE H.A.M.B. Since LCI hasn't responded I'm not sure, maybe he was seeing something different.

My seized non working truck coil. Coil No. 21904 on both coils.

Does anyone know what the correct key type would have been for this key coil ? I've read that the correct key was either a Clum, Yale or Briggs & Stratton in the few threads I could locate that discussed this topic, but haven't found the answer I'm looking for. I need to have a key made up for a good working 6 volt North East coil that was saved from a 1929 Dodge Brothers 5 window Coupe. I've found a key guy that does Dodge Brothers keys but he's telling me that the code should say "DB" but I found no DB on the coil anywhere. I understand that some keys have the DB on them but that's only helpful after one finds the keycode I would assume. This is what I'm trying to achieve ultimately: This is going to go in my 1930 Dodge Brothers Panel truck DA-124 and I would like to transfer the original truck face plate from my non working coil over to the working Coupe coil. The trucks and the car coils seem to match up identical so I believe this will work. Does anyone believe this won't work ? Also, I've noticed some keys have numbers and letters but I can't find a thorough enough explanation of what the letter and numbering system means and or what the application would have been for each key. The only numbers or codes I could find on the coil are shown in the photos below. So in summary I have 2 questions: 1.) Can I transfer the face plate from the non working Truck coil over to the working Coupe coil without any issues ? 2.) What kind of key and what number range should I be looking for ?

You've definately got the DE now that I understand it a little better now (not fully grasping it yet though) . I've had that photo you posted for about a year now, never knew it was a DE but it's helped answer other questions I had, and I guess it's still answering questions.... Love the progress you've made on your truck by the way, I've been checking in from time to time and your doing a very commendable job. Looks like you have the same exact engine I have, the rear exhaust manifold and crankcase vent hole along with the cross mount carb is a dead give away. I'm still figuring out what parts to throw together. I think I'll use the manifold off the seized motor I have that's out of the 1 1/2 ton donor and put it to another DA-6 that was running out of a 5 window Coupe, hopefully it all matches up size wise but if it don't I'll keep pluggin away till it does work even if I have to free up the old seized motor and rebuild it. The Zenith carb in my profile with the cross mount flange is correct for the 3/4 to 1 1/2 tons according to the MPB. Very rare recent find. Still looking for the correct air filter though but if I can't find the filter and vent tube I'll just fab somethin up for temp until I locate original parts, which could be years as most of us know. Heres the running engine I purchased recently along with the seized motor showing the correct manifold I will attempt to use. Still rounding up parts and will be years before it comes together but I'm workin on it.

Yeah your welcome. I enjoy doing it because I always learn something everytime I open these books, and it always leads to another positve line of questions for me. Glad it helped answer some questions you had. And your right, it is what it is in regards to correct parts for these things no matter the part. Every one of these models was so different it's hard to keep up with anything outside of my particular truck let alone the parts and numbers for anyone elses but I love looking for the information and doing the research. I volunteered to do work from my location here in Phoenix AZ for the WP Chrysler Museum in Detroit but there isn't any way it could work out, that's just to say how much I enjoy doing it so don't ever hesitate to ask for any help. Sherm, I have a question about the truck on topic: Did the prior information I gave above help in the search for the 185 wb truck on topic ? I'm very curious to know if we can find those answers for that truck. Again, glad you found out some info on your truck. If you need more scans let me know. 76 pages total Dave

first 3 are certain models of around 45 46 GMC trucks shell on the right is 36 chevy missing the upper emblem don't know about the fender skirt looks late 40's though

Yes thats one of my favorites. These photographers did some incredible. Would really love to have that Graham Bros & Dodge Bros service station sign on the left. Actually, any of those signs would be gems to own. Funny how they had "drive thru/in" gas stations back then. I'm sure because of the new found popularity and love of the automobile that these types of filling stations were viewed in a similar way that the drive thru burger joint is today. As long as it keeps us going, we don't pay any attention to where they put them or how they are regulated, heck, just put the pump on the porch !. EPA would have had a field day back then. Another great photographic moment at Shorpy

Engine

Headlamp