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cmjplayboy

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About cmjplayboy

  • Birthday 01/24/1945

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  1. How is the jack and handle suppose to store in the trunk. Jack under tire? have a clamp and win nut that looks like it holds the handle ? no decal and not in owners book on how to properly store the jack. Thank You
  2. I can tell those wheel cover clips are going to be a pain and guessed not all wheels will accept them. So if the 57-60 and 62-63 use the same clips then all have to do now is find some. Tried to track down the wheels that were on it originally, but could not.
  3. I want to put the original wheels and hubcaps back on the car. It came with American Mags on it. I know I need the clips for the hubcaps, but need to know if the wheels are special, or will any 14 inch 5X5 steel wheel fit. I read someplace there was an indentation in the wheel for the clips. The spare wheel in the car does not have 5 indentations, but does have a groove around the full circle on the wheel that may be for the clips. So what do I need to look for in Wheels to get back to original. Also looking for 3 nice original hubcaps Thank You Charles Martin Chewelah, Wa
  4. THe plywood seems to be working OK, but still have a little bit of bulging, but a lot better than it was. Waiting for material from SMS, not an exact color match, but close. to the color that was not exposed to the light and all that stuff that affects color. When I got it out of the car looked a lot lighter than I thought it looked in the car.
  5. Think I have a solution to the bulge There is plenty of rooom above the panel and the roof and I just happen tp have some 1/8th inch plywood laying around. I think if I glue a piece on to the top it will hold the bulge up. because of the curve on the ends can't just make a new panel, but gluing a piece into the middle will work I think. Will know in a day or two after the glue drys. Needed plenty of weight on it to hold it against the plywood, hopefully won't just peel off when take the weight off. The plywood even had a natural curve to fit the center section of the panel
  6. Have not seen this mentioned, but it could be a tight piston. I had it happen to me the ring lands were not properly machined and as soon as it started to warm up and expand the squeak would start. Drove me nuts trying to figure it out and found it when pulled the head off. This was a new set of std pistons and on one they forgot the last machine step it looked like Machine shop did not catch it when they assembled the engine. The skirts were fine, was just the ring land area that was oversized.
  7. Have fabric ordered from SMS and cleaning up the boards. The problem is one of them has a big bulge (oil can) Is there a way to fix this or do I need to look for replacement board material wich probably also doesn't match original thickness and then try and get the curves on the end . Would much prefer to fix this, bad enough can't get original material any more.
  8. I need to replace the headliner in my 62 Starfire and the original type material is not available . What is the best bet to retain some originality and where can I get the material. The current headliner is basically crumbling away. I may need to replace the boards also as they are drooping in places and won't stay up anymore. Thank You
  9. Hi, has anyone replaced their Defroster Duct. That duct that is about 3" Dia and fabric with wire insert. If so what did you use and where to get it. Tried the 3" plastic stuff from NAPA, but it refused to go over the metal duct from the heater and the other end to the vent. Thanks
  10. Thanks for the picture, everything was off one spot, everything now working as it should , even the master switch is now working properly. Now to clean up the mess under there a bit and make it look a little neater without knocking anything loose. I s a real pain at my age trying to see up in there and blind in one eye to boot. And to get the defrost duct back in there so can put the radio and all that stuff back in. Fred
  11. the side vents are working as suppose to, both open on max air, on Med the left hand is open, on the heater side things are crossed. the defrost is on the indirect button, have checked and rechecked the hoses they are correct per the diagram. Is it possible, maybe that is why the ports are circled on the diagram? Also is it possible that a weak vacuum source could be keeping the master switch vacuum to be insufficient?? When run a seperate source to the switch it works
  12. I do have Vacuum to both switches, now the problem is to determine what is crossed. I think the heater connections are now correct??. Still no Vacuum to the master switch, and when I put the ventilation on Max both side doors open, but according to the manual when it is on medium the LH cowl door should still be open, It closes when Med button pushed. And yes any numbers on the switch are extremely difficult, especcially for us old guys. And on the vent control 5 ports and 4 are real close together making it real hard to put a hose on to begin with. The Vacuum pump also seems to be in working order, although somewhere along the way it had been bypassed and vac taken off the manifold.
  13. a question still is why would that source for the valve come off the ventilation and not the heater switvh. I do have a little as in small vacuum resevoir on the firewall.. The fuel pump seemed to have some vacuum, don;t know if enough, guess will know more tomorrow. sent you an email.
  14. right about the arm and a leg, but it does look good. and should last a long time, mine was shot as in really bad. Hoses got knocked off when dropped the dash to get at everything to get the pad off. If I manually opperate the master switch fan works and all that, just no vacuum to the diaphram to operate it. In the process of running a new line from the fuel pump as looks like somebody ran the main line off of the manifold instead of the pump. Might be it (pump) is weak won't know that until tomorrow. Looks like the vacuum set up was so could not run the fan unless the engine was running.
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