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About colt45sa

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  • Birthday 07/26/1940
  1. I would also add that the basic job of motor oil to 'lubricate'. It actually has two other jobs; to cool, and to clean. It is 'not' a cushion to keep parts from slamming against one another. That being said, it you have an engine that has severe wear, a heavier motor oil may help to prevent you from hearing a bunch of pounding, banging noises and reduce consumption. I'm mostly talking about engines that have a pressurized lubrication system as opposed to a 'splash' system. If rebuilding, you might make sure that you refer to the manufacturer' engine specs and stay within tolerances. Check this out and win a beer with a trivia question. "What weight motor oil do NASCAR teams run during time trials?" The answer is 0W-5 ! Remember, motor oil is a lubricant, not a cushion ! When 0W-5 weight motor oil was first introduced, it enabled Formula engines to reach higher RPM's and create a significant increase in horsepower.
  2. I have made and extensive search for a reliable and honest transporter to carry a running, driving 1956 automobile fro NY state to FLA. What I am finding is that all those people you see running ads are brokers, not the actual carriers. Brokers quote you a price, then post to a board to find someone who will transport for the price they are willing to pay (the price quoted to you less their cut), and the horrors begin. I don't want a $200 'bump' from the quoted price once the car is picked up. I don't want a missed or ignored pick-up date as the seller will be inconvenienced. I am flexible on the pick-up date, although I want it to be specific when I am given that date. And I am flexible on the delivery time, 3 to 7 days. If you have had a 'positive' experience, please post the 'carriers' name. You might want to post the name of the 'do not touch' carriers
  3. Larry, you are 'right on'. 6 volt systems need heavier cables on the battery than are commonly available. 6 volt systems also need 'clean' and 'tight' connections. Using a 8 volt battery is not the answer. I had a Studebaker with a 6-volt system that cranked over very slowly. Everyone said 'that's the way 6-volt systems are, you just don't remember'. Well I do remember. I went to a guy who understands automotive electric. He installed some heavier cables on the battery, cleaned and tightened many of the connections, and 'voila', the car cranked like it was a 12-volt car. Converting to 12 volts is a pita, and is totally unnecessary.
  4. I would like to buy a 1955 President State Coupe or a 1956 Golden Hawk. I want a decent car not in need of major work. I'm also not looking for a 'trailer queen'. Like most Studebaker nuts, I don't have train loads of money. I'm a retired 74 y.o. who will drive my Studebaker. In the meantime, if you know of anyone who wants to buy a full restored '57 bone stock Chevy with 3-on-the-tree, tell them I want to sell mine. I'm at
  5. Just an aside about motor oil weights. My Dad traveled a great deal in his work. He purchased a '56 Power Hawk with very few miles on the odometer from his local friend/Studebaker dealer. We lived in New Jersey so we had a pretty good temperature range between the hottest summer day and the coldest winter day. The Hawk had its oil changed every 10,000 miles using 10 weight oil. The filter was changed every 3,000 miles. At 170,000 miles the car used a quart of oil every 1200 to 1500 miles; the valve seals needed replacement, so Dad traded the car in ! So much for light oil in winter and heavier oil in summer. You see, the engine is water cooled so when the engine temperature reached 180 degrees, it didn't know weather the ambient temperature was hot or cold.
  6. Very clean, beautiful, and mechanically sound '55 President State coupe with 63,000 original miles. 259 cu in V-8, automatic, one repaint done about 2003. Car spent its life in the south and has never seen snow or salted roads. Parked in 1972 when collector/owner became seriously ill. Remained in dry garage until 2004. I purchased it from collector's son who had no interest in cars. Gone through mechanically by professional restorer who rebuilt braking system, replaced water pump, voltage regulator, rebuilt generator and starter, restored fuel pump, and diagnosed and repaired some minor wiring problems. Front end and bushings were rebuilt at cost of over $600. Valve covers and air cleaner have been powder coated. Car starts, runs and drives as it should. I have taken it on several 360 mile round trips without incident. Car sold with shop manual, shop manual supplement, chassis manual, a number of replacement parts, and new uninstalled custom cut carpet set. Asking $10,000. write or call 772-260-9226