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ceejay

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Posts posted by ceejay

  1. Looking for parts for a 1937 Chevy 4 door... most parts are common with all other passenger models.

     

    Front fenders

    Running boards

    "Doghouse" .... the panels on either side of the grill, radiator splash apron

    Rear spare carrier for slantback / flatback

    slantback tail light brackets

  2. Hi all,

     

    Please be aware that there is a scammer on AACA his current member name is fedwards.

     

    I'm sure he keeps changing names or joining with different names.

     

    He will message you saying he has all the parts you need and will request a Walmart to Walmart payment.

     

    The payment will be requested to

     Melissa Allen
    Address: 1900 Emily St. Metairie Louisiana 70001

     

    If you search this name and address on Google, there are other cases of the same scam with the same name and address.

     

    I wish I had searched before sending him $650 !!

     

     

  3. Being your car is air conditioned it makes sense that the fan was changed out at some point. I know mine, even with out air, would run hot with just that four blade factory fan when idling too long in traffic after coming off the highway. My solution was to run a new three core rad and an auxiliary pusher fan on a switch when I occasionally needed it.

    As to the orange colour you are painting it, here is a shot of an all original Special I met some time ago at one of our local cars shows. Admittedly not quite orange but a different Buick colour you don't often see. The car was his grandfathers which he inherited after his passing. He was willing to sell for $5,000.00 (cdn) but just wasn't good timing for me.:(

    The factory air cars always had a multi blade fan and a fan clutch. This fan is from a 57.

    wow that was an amazingly low price he was asking for that car. I paid over $15,000 (cdn) for my wreck !!

  4. Hi CeeJay

    I'll never think about "hot tanking" an engine the same way after seeing your method!

    Fantastic!

    What kind of chemical is in there? How much juice did you apply to the barrel? and for how long?

    Keep 'em coming! BTW, the fan is incorrect for that motor…. but you probably knew that.

    mike

    The "hot tank" contained caustic soda dissolved in water.

    The Electrolysis was done with voltage ranging from 12 to 24 volts, maintaining the current draw at around 10 amps. Most of the items were in electrolysis over 24 hours.

    The fan is from a 57 Nailhead with AC

  5. Since the car is going to get painted a shade of Orange color, the body gets painted in an orange color on the under side and the inside and then gets placed on the blasted, primed and painted chassis.

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    Next all the body panels get fitted back and they all get spray filler applied and the whole body leveled with all the panels in place.

    post-69372-143142914351_thumb.jpg

    I have a photo of a car which I found in the web. It is a beautiful shade of orange and that is the the color I want my car to be... It is not a stock 58 Buick shade of orange so I had to keep mixing paint and applying on different panels till it looked like in the photo...

    post-69372-143142914554_thumb.jpg

    Well, it looks different when I take a photo with my camera than it does in real life.. but I think I'v arrived at the shade of orange I would like the car to be.

    The car is now painted in a base coat (not the correct shade) and is sanded back and ready to get pushed into the paint room to get painted... BUT, to do that, I need the suspension fitted up. All the new suspension parts have arrived from USA but I have got the mechanic busy working on my 1960 Pontiac so Ill let the car sit for now and start working on the engine... Pics to follow :-)

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  6. Wow Ceejay! You have come a long way in 5 years. Please keep us updated in the future.

    Happy New Years to you and your family!

    Thanks Doug and a Happy new year to you and yours too !

    Actually the progress shown up to the last set of photos above, has taken exactly 2 and a half years.

    Progress since then has not been as good as I want but I had stopped them working on the car because I had them working on my 1960 Pontiac 4 door hard top.

  7. After the body was blasted back to bare metal, it was primed immediately

    post-69372-143142909529_thumb.jpg

    Then seam sealer on all the seams on the body

    post-69372-143142909686_thumb.jpg

    Next, stone chip and corrosion protection both inside and out.

    post-69372-143142909762_thumb.jpg

    Then a coat of spray filler and paste filler over that. the paste filler gets sanded down so that it only remains on any small indentations in the body. We do not leave a whole layer of paste filler on the entire body

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    • Like 1
  8. well at that stage, all the rust on the main body shell had been cut out and replaced with hand made panels, the unbolt-able panels like the doors and fenders have been replaced with good rust free panels imported from USA and the roof has been replaced.

    So next stage... off goes the body again from the chassis..

    post-69372-1431429055_thumb.jpg

    and onto the rotisserie she goes.

    post-69372-143142905529_thumb.jpg

    Gets pushed outside..

    post-69372-143142905559_thumb.jpg

    and blasted clean !!

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    • Like 1
  9. hahaha :D:p just playing around with you folks ... I would never do that to the car.

    The original roof had far too much deep pitted rust on it. We could have cleaned it up and re used it but the pitted rust always comes back to bite us here in Sri Lanka, no matter how well we clean and treat the steel. I guess its the high humidity.

    So I imported a beautiful rust free roof from USA and welded that on :o

    post-69372-143142904601_thumb.jpg

    New and old roofs side by side

    post-69372-143142904595_thumb.jpg

    New roof

    post-69372-143142904591_thumb.jpg

    Here's the old girl sporting her new rust free roof

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  10. :-) The first thing we did when we dismantled the car for restoration, was to strip the body bare, then take the body off the chassis and check the chassis for rust and twisting or bending due to possibly collisions etc and we found the chassis to be very very good. Only surface rust and it was completely straight.

    post-69372-143142903763_thumb.jpg

    You can see the parallel strings in the photos. The chassis was set up to be level, on a specially prepared completely level concrete floor. Then parallel strings on either side and a center line string strung up and the whole chassis checked from every mounting point (both body and suspension points)

    Also by the time of chopping the roof, all of the corrosion on the body has been cut out and new panels welded in, so the body is completely rust free and is quite rigid and strong (as strong as a new one would be)

    The only concern is, have I ruined a good Century Hard Top by chopping it to make it a convertible ?? :confused:

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