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jvelde

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Posts posted by jvelde

  1. If you have a brake bleeder vacuum pump and catch jar, connect to fuel line and see if you can pull fuel. If there is a fuel filter between the tank and the pump, check to be sure it isn't plugged.  Also, may want to blow out fuel line between the tank and pump connection.

    Let us know what ends up being the problem so others can benefit from your findings.

    Good luck, JV

  2. On 8/18/2020 at 10:43 PM, BillyR said:

    Here are the rest of the photos I took the other day when I pulled the parts out. I can take better ones of each individual piece if someone would like. I am going to try and go over there and get a list of all the parts there to give a more accurate description. Do ya'll know if there is a shop that kind of specializes in restoring buicks that would be interested in buying everything? I am not really interested in trying to part it out. Dont really have the time nor the space for all these parts. 

    image1 (2).jpeg

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    If the wheels are in good condition and 16" diameter, I could be interested in 2 of them if not too expensive (since shipping would be pricey). If you click on my avatar, you can send me a private message.

  3. Copied From Team Buick Reference tab:

     

    On 1935-1955 Canadian built Buicks, a single data tag on the firewall or cowl will contain all of the required information, but on U.S. built Buicks, in general these numbers are found in the following locations:

    • Frame serial number - for 1935-1940 it is on a plate riveted to the right side (passenger side in U.S./Canada) of the frame near the battery or starter. For 1941-1948 it is on the firewall near the trim tag.
    • Car serial and VIN - on a plate attached to the left side door jamb (driver side in U.S./Canada) or on the left side of the dash near the windshield.
    • Stamped engine serial number and production code - various places on the engine depending on the engine type, see appendices 2-4.
    • Trim tag - a plate attached to the cowl or firewall under the hood.
  4. Cut a 1 inch piece of heater hose and slip on the end of the prop - has worked for me for almost 10 years without slipping. There is a change in the profile of the hood making a small indention that is the best place to position the prop to assist in keeping the hood up. 

     

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