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Yep, they were honeycomb and dipped in a solder bath with only the tanks and side straps painted black.

Bob is always on EBAY as db-racer, contact him through there, great person to deal with. https://www.ebay.com/itm/385191495429

Best thing you can do is get the wheel cylinders rebuilt and sleeved with stainless steel, they will last for years. I painted mine with cast blast to keep the rust away and so far its held up pretty well.

Try Quickor Garage in OR, they made me a custom sway bar for one of my projects http://quickorgarage.com/custom.htm

Leo, I sent you a email.

Just to set the record straight, Sherwin Williams does make automotive paints and even some OEM use them. If you have a actual color sample they can use their Spectrophotometer to come up with their formula for it. https://industrial.sherwin-williams.com/na/us/en/automotive.html

Still looking for the starter.

I asked this same question from Jay sometime ago and he mentioned that all three share the same flywheel , so all three starter motors will interchange. However the 75 starter is mechanically activated and you would need the other parts to go with it. Jay has 75 starters.

I will call you in the AM

Still looking, someone musts have one they aren't using.

BTT

Leo, I found some from a 1929 model 75 and are probably the same as 1928 model 72. Though they look dirty and need a good cleaning I did put a volt meter to them and they both showed continuity. Let me know if you need one.

Still looking, the starter number is 724C

Looking for a good 1928 Chrysler 72 stater motor that can be rebuilt or a good one that can be used as is. Please PM with what you have or any leads.

Hi Leo, He was the first on my list and unfortunately he does not have a 72 starter. Has all the others .

Looking for a good 1928 Chrysler 72 stater motor that can be rebuilt or a good one that can be used as is. Please PM with what you have or any leads.

Make sure they clock the cap neck correctly or the wings on the cap will be off and also test fit it with grill shell. There is enough adjustment that if the neck is off front to back the shell will fit crooked and non of the side bolts that hold the shell to the radiator wont line up. I got mine from the radiator shop and it was off by 1/2". Luckily I was test fitting everything and checked the cap and noticed the wings were 1/2" twisted and back to the radiator shop for a redo. Even with the alignment marks they got it off the first go around.

Just curious, did the model 70 or 75's that were sold in non national English speaking countries have the owners manual in the local language or were they all in English? I have never seen one other than in English and was curios about it.

If you read the race results the 29 cars were very competitive and one of the cars was running in third and closing in on second till it developed problems. After spending some time working on the car it still finished a very respectable sixth only one lap behind the supercharged Stutz with the other Chrysler one lap behind it. These were very special cars and were very different from their production cousins. Like the Bentley and other teams the cars were well developed by the teams. The Chrysler team principle was Gustave Baehr. Doing patent search shows a plethora of patents he filed and licensed to other car companies including some of the race parts he designed for the Chrysler. In some of the French car magazines of the time ,his company advertised performance parts to convert the Chrysler for racing including special gears and a special floater race rear end with a 3.25 gears among other parts in the kit. Every once in a while at Retromobile race parts from the kits do show up. About seven years ago I did see a set of 3.25 gears for sale, but ta that time I had already spent my funds on other things I needed at the show. If you look at the average times per lap of the cars in the race they would have had to have used a tall gear to get those times consistently.

Leo and everyone thanks for checking on me. I had a very bad case of pneumonia that took the wind out my sails and was a tough and go for awhile. But now I am back home and recovering and will be back working on the toys soon.

I have used these guys http://www.runningboardrubber.com/ They were great to deal with.

On my red head I use Champion C-4 plugs, they also cross reference over to Ford Model A and there are whole lot of plugs for those guys. If you are looking for different heat ranges its limited and you might have to run inserts.

Its an odd one, but I think It can be fabricated. The picture is from the net of the fiberglass firewall pad. The rounded edges would be the tricky part to cover.

bradsan, none of the fiberglass suppliers have been helpful, and one was even rude. jpage, I am leaning towards fabrication one from aluminum and covering it and texturing it before painting. The other side would have the jute. Unfortunately there is no easy fix.

Thanks for the replies, restoration supply wasn't any help. That is a great job you did on your firewall padding. Unfortunately mine firewall isn't flat and has about 1" tall bump 6[' x6" in the middle. I could possibly make it in twp pieces, but would need to see how I can hide the seam.