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270offy

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Everything posted by 270offy

  1. Update / body nearly complete before rivets
  2. More updates, fabricating the front fenders
  3. Update photos showing sequence of fabrication of rear fenders
  4. Those strips of cloth between the aluminum and steel on the Land Rovers made excellent wicks to insure the contact areas were always wet thus insuring corrosion.
  5. The corrosion problem is highly overrated particularly on a car that is not going to be left outdoors all of its life. Land Rovers were poor examples because they were essentially farm vehicles subjected to the worst treatment one could heap on a car. Proper painting of the framework and a garage make all the difference! This is not a daily beater to be ridden and put away wet. I have restored race cars built this way that were 80 years old and showed no signs of electrolysis.
  6. The factories also built speedsters. I don't think it is ours to narrow the definition.
  7. I always wash the entire surface with a phosphoric acid solution and then immediately use a cold anodizing process. This was the last project.
  8. The round head rivets will be exposed. It makes it more difficult to do the painting with the rivets and louvers, but I think it is worth it.
  9. Yes,3003 aluminum skin, 1100 alloy rivets.
  10. Jegs sells an entire back set of boxed "kick ups" from Competition Engineering that should be just the ticket for lowering the rear.
  11. The rivets are conventional solid rivets made of aluminum that are hammered over. I am using round head style for the look, but you can use flush head rivets like those used in the aviation field. Once the skin is riveted to the frame the entire structure becomes very strong.
  12. The stretch that you are planning would likely be about the amount necessary for accommodating an overdrive. You should check out those companies. Are you going to retain the torque tube? If so your pinion angle will be locked in and you only have to worry about the "u" joint at the torque ball. Early Ford brakes are only a wish when trying to stop anything hotter than the stock engine. In the "old" days folks used Essex frames because they had a nice kick up over the rear axle, or you could cut the frame off ahead of the rear end and hang the spring off of a perch. This was done to many sprint cars. First you need to decide what you want it to look like.
  13. The design is my own, as I am not interested in building a replica. This is to be a custom body "of the period" following the tradition of having a factory provide the running chassis and sending it out to a coach builder for a bespoke body.
  14. The framing is .060 1"x1" mild steel with the skin riveted to it.
  15. Here are a couple of shots of my "Speedster" project, a Lagonda LG45, one of 175, getting a new lightweight body. These cars won at LeMans in their day with W.O.Bentley, yea that one, as head of engineering. This is destined to be a streetable race car.
  16. Hello all, Interesting site. I think that this might apply. Some details, 1937 Lagonda LG45, 4.5liter, one of 175. It was the victim of an unfortunate re-body some years ago, but the chassis and drive train is identical to the LeMans winning cars. So it is getting a lightweight suit!
  17. 270offy

    For Sale

    Where are you located? Can you send other views? Thanks, Lee 860-434-0277
  18. All of these items have been sold
  19. Oldcartech.................The parts have been sold, sorry.
  20. I just re-discovered these parts (the ones on the right) do you know anyone that is in need of these? The other parts are for Lucas P100S headlamp supports. Thanks, Lee
  21. A note of clarification on the number and distribution of Stan Francis boat tail bodies. Researching the origins of my 28BB boat tail I recently spoke to Stan and he only built 2 boat tail bodies, did not finish the but sold them to Mark Clayton. One sold into the Chicago area the other to Texas (my car), passed thru Newt Withers, David Crank, and Brian Hall. I hope this helps. PS; thanks Ivan, for the lead.
  22. These parts were in among some Stutz parts that I bought and I am unable to identify them. Thanks for your help.
  23. yes the "Lockhart" car had a Miller worm drive with torque tube and a 3 speed transmission. The steering was by Ross a "duplex" 18.5 to 1 You need to review Dees book pages 254 to 261.
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