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About 270offy

  • Birthday 02/02/1941

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  1. Update / body nearly complete before rivets
  2. More updates, fabricating the front fenders
  3. Update photos showing sequence of fabrication of rear fenders
  4. Those strips of cloth between the aluminum and steel on the Land Rovers made excellent wicks to insure the contact areas were always wet thus insuring corrosion.
  5. The corrosion problem is highly overrated particularly on a car that is not going to be left outdoors all of its life. Land Rovers were poor examples because they were essentially farm vehicles subjected to the worst treatment one could heap on a car. Proper painting of the framework and a garage make all the difference! This is not a daily beater to be ridden and put away wet. I have restored race cars built this way that were 80 years old and showed no signs of electrolysis.
  6. The factories also built speedsters. I don't think it is ours to narrow the definition.
  7. I always wash the entire surface with a phosphoric acid solution and then immediately use a cold anodizing process. This was the last project.
  8. The round head rivets will be exposed. It makes it more difficult to do the painting with the rivets and louvers, but I think it is worth it.
  9. Yes,3003 aluminum skin, 1100 alloy rivets.
  10. Jegs sells an entire back set of boxed "kick ups" from Competition Engineering that should be just the ticket for lowering the rear.
  11. The rivets are conventional solid rivets made of aluminum that are hammered over. I am using round head style for the look, but you can use flush head rivets like those used in the aviation field. Once the skin is riveted to the frame the entire structure becomes very strong.
  12. The stretch that you are planning would likely be about the amount necessary for accommodating an overdrive. You should check out those companies. Are you going to retain the torque tube? If so your pinion angle will be locked in and you only have to worry about the "u" joint at the torque ball. Early Ford brakes are only a wish when trying to stop anything hotter than the stock engine. In the "old" days folks used Essex frames because they had a nice kick up over the rear axle, or you could cut the frame off ahead of the rear end and hang the spring off of a perch. This was done to many sprint cars. First you need to decide what you want it to look like.
  13. The design is my own, as I am not interested in building a replica. This is to be a custom body "of the period" following the tradition of having a factory provide the running chassis and sending it out to a coach builder for a bespoke body.
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