92GTA

Preserve for sure! That thing is beautiful as is! Looks into Evapo-Rust and the products they sell. It removes rust with a neutral ph and won't harm or remove paint. Plus they have a product for applying after that will prevent rust from re-forming that will not alter the patina.

I paid an investigator: AutoAncestry.com - Former Owner Research Specializing in Corvettes - for Antique Car Owners He does do more than just Corvettes and I had GREAT success with him!

That is FANTASTIC!!!! I had no idea! My mom lives in Maine, next time I'm there I'm tracking this place down for sure!!!! Amazing, great work!

Subscribed! GREAT project! I saw your thread on the H.A.M.B. as well. I can't wait to see where the history leads! Alex

On my '56 I'll be doing both head gaskets, having the heads surfaced, valve seals replaced, modern hardened valve guides installed, etc. I'll also be dropping the pan and replacing my leaky 2 piece rope seal rear main with a modern 2 piece rubber w/wire rear main. While the heads are off I'll also be cleaning the surface rust from my exhaust manifolds and soaking my heat riser in Kroil and Evapo-Rust. During reassembly, I'll be reinstalling all of the correct ignition wire shielding. I'm also getting my distributor, speedo, tach, and clock rebuilt mechanically. ...and that's after all the stuff I've already done this winter lol.

Cool! I have a bunch of pictures from the basement of the Peterson auto museum a few years ago. Pictures of Petersons private collection, dozens of cars under covers, uncovered with THICK dust, etc. Here are just a couple... We should start a thread of pictures of hidden cars!

I'm having trouble adding different makes. There is only 1 drop down for makes. I have multiple cars I would like to enter...

Did everyone miss the point of this thread lol? Thanks for posting for those who didn't know!

Wow, very cool to read! Being 30, I also had no idea about any of this! I won't complain about the cost of the Coker repro Firestones on my '56 Actually t be honest, I thought they were almost cheap. I pay more for the modern tires on my Trans Am.

Can I run straight Evaop-Rust through my cooling system then flush? EDIT: I found out I can: http://www.evaporust.com/evaporustcsc.html

Bump...I'm curious too...

Redline. It actually has even more zinc/phos than required.

No PCV, these cars weren't made with them. I smell my dipstick constantly and never smelled fuel. I'll have to monitor the vent tube and see how much is escaping there. Thanks for going over how drag engines act and what loose means from back then, I'm clueless as I'm only 30. Alex

I do get smoke out of my breather tube when the engine is running. It seems to use very little oil though and my plugs don't foul. Fain was still in the garage of his house back in 1964/65 and would have no records. He built this engine for his brother-in-law at the time (who was the 2nd owner). I have tried emailing him to see if he remembers anything about the car but I have never gotten a response. The engine has fair street manners after setting the timing right for the cam and getting the carbs adjusted accordingly with a correct heat range plug. I'm this weekend removing the 2x4 setup Fain installed and putting the original intake and rebuilt carb back on and I'll be tuning that accordingly too. Aside from the little bit of smoke out the breather tube and the tone of the passenger side exhaust being slightly off compared to the left, I don't really have much of an issue. Not enough to justify tearing it apart at this time anyway. I'm going to fill the combustion chambers with MMO and let it sit for a couple or a few weeks just to be sure eerything is as good as it can be. Then I'll drive the heck out of it and do a compression check and go from there. If I have a cylinder that is too much out of spec compared to the rest, then I will consider tearing it apart.

People have been emailing me through here and eBay... I do not have any choke parts or linkage. I also don't have the counter weights. Those seemed to be the most common questions... Thanks!<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

Incredible! Amazing video, thank you for posting! For some reason it actually brought a tear to my eye.

Thanks for the tips and info everyone! I'm going to add some more information... I don't seem to have oil consumption issues, it more of a blow-by, low compression in a couple of cylinders issue. When the original engine was rebuilt before being stored, it was built for racing by Fains Machine in Ventura CA. It only ever saw 1 drag race and about 2,000 street miles before going into storage. The 2nd owner that had Fain do the work said they went .030" over, used new pistons, and built it "loose" for racing. So whatever "loose" meant in 1965 to Jimmy Fain, I'm not sure. As of today, I have another 300 miles or so of driving with the MMO in the oil and fuel since my initial post. It has been allot of mountain driving in 2nd and 3rd gear so I have been keeping the RPMs constantly changing and staying in gear slowing down or going down hill.

Wow, very poor storage! Lots of rust on that thing, the frame and under body is terrible. How the heck could the engine possibly be that dirty and greasy? Sure would be fun to clean up and drive though! Thanks for posting!

Thanks for confirming!

Wow, great thread! I myself will be doing a R66 drive in my survivor '56 Corvette starting in Barstow CA ~late Spring 2011. I only have 2-3 weeks off work so I doubt I will make it far before having to turn back since I'll be stopping to check everything out lol! I live in Bakersfield and I'll just take hwy58 to Barstow and start there. I'll be following this thread and suggestions to help plan my trip!

Yeah I'm just trying everything before I rehone and rering. I used 2 spray cans and half a liquid can of SeamFoam down through the carbs 2 different times and it cleaned it up but did not solve the issue. I haven't tried it in the crank case or gas tank yet. I have found SeaFoam to be great for cleaning but not for rust/lubrication issues.

My '56 Corvette (265ci V8) was stored in the CA desert for about 39 years, inside a garage mind you, NOT outside. The original engine was rebuilt and had only about 2,000 miles on the rebuild when the car was parked. It did not take much to get the engine running and after a few months I have now gone through everything and it's running better than ever. BUT, not all of the upper piston rings appear to be sealing yet. I am getting some blowby when running (smoke coming out of breather tube) and I can hear out the exhaust that it's the passenger side. I haven't done a compression check yet, I kind of don't want to know lol. I first tried Redline with Auto-Rx for about 700-800 miles. After no change and having to replace the oil after a rear main seal leak, I have added some MMO to the crank case and gas tank. I'm still running Redline as it has the right amount of zync & phos for a flat tappet cam. Anyway, I have just gone through a full tank of gas with the MMO in the crank case and gas tank. It seems to be helping a little bit but not enough. I'm going to be pulling my intake in a week and I was going to pull the spark plugs and fill the combustion chambers with MMO and let sit for a week. Then crank the engine with no plugs to blow out the left over MMO and fire it back up with the new intake and carb installed. Do you guys have any other tips for me you can think of? Thanks! Alex

1957-1961 2x4 245HP carbs (No dings or cracks) No air screws in base like '56 and Early '57 carbs These will fit 1955-1961 SBCs and maybe other years? Original front carb tag: 2626S - Date code: F 8, 4 Original rear carb tag: 2627S - Date code: E 8, 9 Note: Original carb tags, NOT repro! Main bodies: 0-049, 0-1049 Air Horns: 6-1299 Front carb numbers: 6-1299 in raised lettering, 1161 stamped in, 6 in raised lettering, and a 5 in raised letting. All of these numbers are on the LH rear corner of the front carb on top of the carb body clearly seen with the air cleaner on. Rear carb numbers: 6-1299 in raised lettering, 966 (I think) stamped in, and 6 in raised lettering. These are in the same location I described above for the front carb. I have 2 complete and brand new rebuild kits for these carbs as well still in the box (Although they do NOT need to be rebuilt) 1957-1961 2x4 Aluminum Intake Manifold (No dings or cracks) Intake manifold: 3739653 Thermostat housing: 3837223 (original, not repro) Breather tube included Other items included: Newer FelPro Thermostat housing gasket (thick blue type) New *correct* reproduction upper radiator hose Air cleaner housings with wing nuts New aftermarket Mr. Gasket air cleaners Complete Accelerator linkage with springs Newer (~800 miles on it and only 6 months old) 2x4 fuel pump Hard fuel lines and fittings from pump to carbs Original complete fuel filter housing, 854392, GF-48 (not warped, perfect condition) Original fuel filter element (cardboard) w/good original gasket (Still good!) New fuel filter element with new gaskets These carbs are currently installed on the original engine in my 1956 and have been there since 1965. They are currently in good tune and do not leak, have no vacuum leaks, or have any other issues. I just went through and re-calibrated the idle mixture screws (600ft altitude) and synced the idle RPM screws and adjusted the linkage. You can simply install these carbs as-is and start your engine! As soon as I have a buyer I will remove them, drain them, and box everything VERY securely. All will be shipped full insured with tracking #. It will be a large, heavy box with a TON of packing, do not expect shipping to be cheap however I will only charge the buyer to the penny what the shipping company charges (box and packing will be free). I am converting from this complete 2x4 setup back to an original 1x4 setup, that is why everything above is included! To be quite frank, I have no idea what these are really worth so don't be afraid to make any offer, I won't get offended. I am asking $3,500 OBO. Send your offers to alexclaytor@gmail.com Thanks! Alex

RIP A spare turbine engine, really? That thing must be worth a fortune by it's self!

Man, I would pay $1,000 just to have it in my front yard! That is just cool! Best of luck with the sale and getting a fair price! alex