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About 92GTA

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  • Birthday 01/14/1980

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    Bakersfield, CA
  1. I did this with my 56 Corvette as well, great time.
  2. My oldest son is turning 14 this Friday and he is wanting a 1969 Firebird instead of a 70 Chevelle like before. Owning a 92 Firebird, who am I to argue lol! We are looking for any condition rust-free with title 1969 coupe within about 1,500 miles at the most. Doesn't have to have a drive train or interior, except I would like a dash with gauges. It's will be a 3 year project for us together but he doesn't have much to work with on the purchase cost. He has been saving and I am matching him dollar for dollar and I'm also helping out on the project parts costs. We are doing all labor ourselves including paint so save money. Please let me know if anyone knows of any rust free rolling coupes around. Thanks! alexclaytor@gmail.com
  3. I just sold my '56 Vette and I was born in '80
  4. I just made a thread here: http://www.acccdefender.org/forum/showthread.php?tid=150 Post a link to it on every car site and forum you now! Spread the word!!!!! I know there is a lobby to get rid of ethanol fuel all together, good luck on that one. I'm just talking about getting more local pumps with ethanol free fuel in as many cities and towns as we can, NOW! Please post any constructive suggestions, I need as many good ideas as I can get to get this off the ground!!!!!! Thanks! Alex
  5. True but the 20-30mins mentioned is just too long IMO. I could also overfill my crankcase with oil a bit so the crank can grab more oil to sling. I also think 10mins right from cold start would be ok since the high idle cam will hold after the choke until the throttle is blipped which will also help lube the cam.
  6. No way I would idle my '56 for that long just because of being a solid lifter/flat tappet cam and the cam won't get enough oil splash without sufficient RPM to sling the oil off the crank shaft. Great way to ruin a vintage engine. Just saying. There are technical reasons for doing things a certain way.
  7. Very cool! I look forward to progress updates with lots of pictures
  8. If you can't even start the car to proove everything works correctly as it came from the factory, what's the point :confused:
  9. That is odd though, the engine in my 92 Trans Am is the same setup. My smog pump mechanically locked up but even with a serpentine belt, the engine started right up but squeeled like crazy! I thought the AC compressor had frozen, the started smoking the belt right away too. All this with a fairly new tensioner.
  10. I also know the entire alignment has to be set up differently from spec to properly account for radials. I have Coker bias ply reproduction Firestones on my '56 Vette and to be honest, I think it turns and handles just fine. I especially think it feels really smoothe too. It is what it is, and for what it is, it rides and handles more than fine with original style tires. That said, if I was going to do some cross country touring, I would change the weels as mentioned, add the radials, and do the alignment changes. All just for the safety aspect if nothing else.
  11. Ummm, GM's 7L and 6.2L V8's are at the top of the entire game beating anything from Mopar or Ford in terms of HP/TQ, they don't need a different number just to be the same like Mopar and Ford. Although I agree that putting 427 on the Z06 would be sweet Anyway, God bless America just for us having cars like this in this day and age! As far as the metric system lol, that's a different discussion entirely...
  12. I graduated in 2000 and drove a 1982 Firebird that I bought for $350 and an engine for $350. Over my freshman summer I got the engine in and cleaned up what I could. I beat the crap out of that car lol. I've owned about 20 cars since then and learned allot!
  13. Not at all scientific but.... If I had a car only driven 500 miles per year, I would change the ATF, rear diff, etc. every 10 years no matter what. Brakes I would do every 5 and coolant every 3 or 4. Engine oil has been beat to death so I won't touch that one...