george w

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Everything posted by george w

  1. Did you try ordering a replacement mast from Chrysler ? Or from Arizona parts ? I'm not sure of the power antenna manufacturer but it's likely to be Harada and masts should be available perhaps on line.
  2. The retaining screws are under the rubber lip seal. You'll need to peel that back. If all the bulbs are out then the wire connecting eyelets on the circuit board should be removed and replace with small brass or stainless bolts and nuts.
  3. The speaker grilles just pop off. Then you need to remove the instrument binnacle ( 4 screws ). Pop out the liitle leather wedge to the left of the binnacle to get to the left most screw and pop out the long leather wedge to the right to get to the right most screw. There are two screws under the top lip. Be careful of the odomter reset knob when removing and reinstalling the binnacle. (It's not the best fit alignment wise) You can then remove the dash trim/ defroster vents at the top of the dash to get to the speakers.
  4. Your idle speed is in the right ballpark. I suspect that your right side motor mount has deteriorated and that's why you're feeling the inherent idle roughness in these engines. Lift the hood and take a look at the right mount. You'll see the squareish mount core surrounded ( bolted to the inner fender structure ) by the metal support structure that connects to the engine. You should be able to just about fit your small finger in the space between the mount and the inverted "U" portion of the mount structure above it. As far as the idle speed itself, it's not adjustable. It's maintained by the engine computer. The AIS motor would compensate of a dirty throttle body so in and of itself a midly dirty throttle body bore and balde wouldn't affect the idle speed. The AIS would simply be "opened up" by the computer to maintain speed. Cleaning the throttle body bore and blade with some TB cleaner and an old toothbrush is never a bad idea. An easy check to see if the AIS is functioning is t simply start the car on a cold start. The engine should start and idle up to about 1200-1500 rpm for a few seconds and then slow down to below 100rpm in a couple of seconds. If it doesn;t then I would supect a sticky AIS pintle or clogged AIS passage. If you do get the "fast idle" for a few seconds and the engine then slows down then the AIS and the computer are doing their jobs correctly. If the TB is really dirty I'd suggest taking it off the car and cleaning it on the workbench. It's easy to R & R. These sag over time and as they do more of the engine vibration at idles passes through to the body. Getting the rev's up a bit just smooths out the engine naturally.
  5. Let's assume that you have an 89 with the Turbo 2.2. If the timing belt is OK then the most likely culprit is the HEP ( Hall Effect Pickup ) inside the distributor. This is a VERY COMMON failure and typically occurs without warning. The HEP is easily changed as it's the black disc assembly inside the distributor just below the rotor. It's held in place by the distributor cap and lifts right out once the rotor is pulled off. There are two pickups inside and two wiring pigtails. One pickup is for ignition and the other is for the fuel injectors. Typically one the wires inside the pigtails breaks or becomes intermittent and you're dead in the water. These are readilly available from Chrysler and the aftermarket. BTW, a HEP failaure typically won't set a code. Some people in the Chrysler community have been known to always carry a spare.
  6. I've seen those inexpensive, aftermarket air horns that are sold in clear blister packs at the chain auto stores. The ones I've seen had FIAMM motors/compressors and red trumpets. I'd follow that AutoZone tip.
  7. The 90 and up models used a somewhat different door handle that accomodated the new lock cylinders that used the dual sided keys. Apparently Chrysler dropped the LED halo lights when they switched to the dual sided key design in their 1990 model cars. The J body LeBaron premium models from 87 to 89 have the lighted key cylinders and I suspect that their other Premium models had them as well in the same model years. The keyway lights were wired to either the interior courtesy light circuit or the ignition key cylinder light. I don't remember which, but they come on when the door handle is raised. I'm not sure when they go off, but I do know that they do not stay on or follow the exterior lights in any way.
  8. Looks a little too short to fill the plastic housing opening, but it looks OK. Kind of calls attention to itself. Could be a good thing or a bad thing. To each his own.
  9. I bought mine in 2001 and have never had the hardtop on since I brought it home. I hear it's not good to leave the soft top down due to shrinkage. Has anyone had their top shrink excessively ? I have the vinyl tan colored top. I wonder if the black canvas material holds up better or worse than the tan. My top shows some shrinkage but overall is pretty good. I always put the top up after driving with it down. On the other hand my headliner has shruken enough that it will no longer mate well with the Velcro on the mechanism and keeps pulling away. I assume there's no fix for this iisue short of a new, custom made headliner.
  10. You do want to check the turn signals and emergency flashers before going much further. You need to insure that these are working as they should and that BOTH bulbs in each tail light are working correctly for both running lights and for turn signals. Sometimes these "odd" problems can be caused by something as simple as a broken lamp filament that internally shorts over to the other filament in dual filament bulbs. Get the easy checks out of the way first before trying to trobleshoot the obscure problems. There may be a couple of things going on electrically speaking. If you have a bad or missing fuse unrelated circuits can be back fed through other electrical components. First thing I would do is to check all the fuses in the car. Both those in the interior fuse block and those under the hood. Make sure they're all present and not blown. Then, without stepping on the brake, test every light, and every accessory to see if they're operating as they should. This would include the exterior lights front and rear, the forgotten spare tire compartment light, the rear view vanity mirror lights, the map lights, ashtray and console lights, etc. etc. and even the key in ignition light that has the delay off timer. There's also LED lights in each door lock cylinder keyhole that are tied into the interior light circuit and door handle switch, but have their own delay. Anyting that's not working should be noted and corrected as you go along if at all possible. Almost all of these head scratching electrical gremlins are usually a simple fix once you find them ! Another possibility could be the various grounds throughout the car. There could be a loose ground or a corroded ground. There are grounding points at various locations on the body. I know a number of the interior circuits are grounded up behind the dash on the door hinge pillars up above the kick panels. Look for a threaded stud with a number of black wires attached. There are grounds on both the drivers and passenger sides. A service manual would be a big help if you can get your hands on one. The electical diagrams are relatively easy to follow but typically go back and forth between several pages. If you've had any interior electrical work done or have had the dash out for an a/c system repair or a stereo system swap that may be an indicator of where to start looking. Before you do anything though get the fuses back in. Another possibility, but more remote and way more difficult to find, would be two unrelated wires somehow shorted or connected together that shouldn't be. Like maybe a wire pinched under a bracket or fastener, two wires melted together or possibly a wire that's been penetrated by a screw. Had any repair or modifications been done to the car prior to this problem ?
  11. Well at least you know it's related to the brake light circuit. Since the brake lights are only at the rear of the car that pretty much leaves out a wiring issue in the front end of the car. The first thing I'd check is the turn signals and the emergency flashers to see if they work properly and light both bulbs in each tail lamp. If they work OK the it's a strong likelihood that the taillamp / turn signal wiring is OK. That leaves the brake light switch and wiring at the pedal assembly and the center high stoplight and it's related wiring. Since this lamp is mounted to the tonneau cover the wiring could be at fault or there could be a short within the lamp housing. It's simple to remove once you peel back the rubber weatherstrip under the edge of the cover to expose the screws. There may be a connector that will allow you to unlug the CHMSL but my car's not handy so you'll have to look around in the top storage well to see what you may find. If you blow a fuse on the turn signals or with the emergency flashers the I'd suspect a problem in the wiring leading to the tailights. The brake light wiring does pass through the turn signal switch as the turn signal flasher interrupts the brake light feed through the switch, but I'd suspect this area last and only after I checked the other stuff first.
  12. I've had great luck with the Michelin Pilot Exalto's. All the Michelin's are excellent tires and were the only brand fitted as OE.
  13. The headlight switch is the same as that used in the Chrysler LeBarons and Dodge Daytonas from 84 through 89. These should be readilly available used through junk yards, eBay or similar. Marty at Arizona parts probably has new ones as well.
  14. Just referring tp the fact that the LeBaron bumper isn't at all the same as the TC's. Not even close.
  15. The J body LeBarons have an entirely different bumper. The "nerf" strips are simply painted on. The LeBaron bumper cover is basically a one piece affair. The TC bumper is quite complex and made up of quite a few separate parts.
  16. It's most likely the hood lamp wire pinched through in the coily portion and shorting out to the body. Follow the Lane's suggestion by simply unplugging it and see what happens.
  17. Thanks for confirming the diagnosis. This is issue likely to pertain to all the Chrysler products of this era in general and for sure all those models, which are many, that use this same engine.
  18. I know I'm late to the party on this one but I suspect a problem with the check valve in the fuel pump. The fuel pressure regulator does not hold fuel pressure in the system, the check valve in the fuel pump does. The system should build and hold fuel pressure when first cranking the engine, but keep in mind that the pump shuts down in a few seconds until the engine actually starts. If the check valve doesn't hold pressure the car won't start properly because there's not enough residual fuel pressure to operate the injectors and the pump's not running anymore. I also suspect that there's also some fuel line drain back for the same reason. "Pumping" the gas pedal should have nothing to do with this. The jumper test to keep the pump running ought to confirm this diagnosis.
  19. The TC analog instrument cluster is the same as used in the J body LeBarons from 1987-89 and the G body Daytonas from 1984-89 that used the analog (not digital ) clusters. The LeBaron clusters are identical to the TC's with the exception of the instrument lighting color being the typical Chrysler blue-green as opposed to the red-orange of the TC. I beleive this is true with the 1987-89 Daytona clusters as well. The earlier Daytona clusters were cosmetically different in graphics and gauge face style but are likely to be functionally interchangeable. I always thought it odd that the TC designers changed the cluster lighting to red but didn't bother to change the HVAC and radio illumination to match. Note though that the digital clusters that were used in the LeBarons and Daytonas do not directly interchange with the analog clusters. For starters, the connecting plugs are totally different and the wiring MAY be different as well.
  20. I know this post is much later than the last, but there's another possibiity too. That's the braided ground strap that connects and bonds the rear of the intake manifold to the firewall on the passenger side. This strap needs to be secure as does the injector ground wires that attach to one of the two 10mm bolts that secure the fuel rail to the manifold.
  21. You can also drill out the small rivits holding the wire lugs to the circuit board and replace them will small brass or stainless steel bolts and nuts. Most decent hardware stores have these in the small hardware drawers section. You'll need to peel back the rubber gasket on the underside of the tonneau cover to expose the screws holding the CHSL to the trim.
  22. The car looks way too good to part out. Are your sure the the problem extends beyond a timing belt replacement ? I thought that the 3.0 engine was non interference meaning that no damage is done if the timing belt breaks. Too bad the car isn't out here in the east as I'm someone will want to take it and fix it rather than having it parted out. Hopefully there will be someone out there that would be intrested as well. Hopefully you'll find a suitable buyer or will find that it only needs a new timing belt.
  23. I agree with StudeDude, most likely the head gasket. Check the coolant reserve tank for bubbling. If you see any with the engine running then it's the gasket for sure. Just be sure to use the Mopar performance gasket and new head bolts when replacing it.
  24. I'm responsible for the "laundry list'. I may have gone a bit too far with the money to burn line, BUT, while mechanically these are straight early 90's Chrysler with readilly available and reasonably priced parts, body and trim parts are available only through the internet and are not shared with any other Chrysler product, except for the windsheild. A minor fender bender can easily put the car out of commission while the scarce ( and typically pricey ) replacement parts are located. Not a great scenario for a car needed for daily driving duties. On a second note, these cars are more susceptible to rust than their American counterparts like the LeBaron. The bodies and trim, especially the bumpers are much more intricate and complex than the typical American car and the plating of the fasteners is typical european hardware and rusts more readilly than the American stuff. I would say "Not Recommeded" for winter driving conditions. George W.
  25. Undoubtedly the plastic drive cable that moves the mast has either broken into pieces or the teeth have been stripped off. This is a thin flexible plastic cord with teeth on one side that engage a rotating plastic drum inside the antenna case. If you cannot get the mast out then you'll need to remove the antenna unit from the car, an easy job. Open up the round plastic housing and you'll find that the cable has most likely broken. Once the case is opened up you can remove the mast and any broken pieces of the plastic drive cable. You'll then be able to install the new mast assembly with no problem.