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george w

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About george w

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  • Birthday 10/31/1947

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  1. Did you try ordering a replacement mast from Chrysler ? Or from Arizona parts ? I'm not sure of the power antenna manufacturer but it's likely to be Harada and masts should be available perhaps on line.
  2. The retaining screws are under the rubber lip seal. You'll need to peel that back. If all the bulbs are out then the wire connecting eyelets on the circuit board should be removed and replace with small brass or stainless bolts and nuts.
  3. The speaker grilles just pop off. Then you need to remove the instrument binnacle ( 4 screws ). Pop out the liitle leather wedge to the left of the binnacle to get to the left most screw and pop out the long leather wedge to the right to get to the right most screw. There are two screws under the top lip. Be careful of the odomter reset knob when removing and reinstalling the binnacle. (It's not the best fit alignment wise) You can then remove the dash trim/ defroster vents at the top of the dash to get to the speakers.
  4. Your idle speed is in the right ballpark. I suspect that your right side motor mount has deteriorated and that's why you're feeling the inherent idle roughness in these engines. Lift the hood and take a look at the right mount. You'll see the squareish mount core surrounded ( bolted to the inner fender structure ) by the metal support structure that connects to the engine. You should be able to just about fit your small finger in the space between the mount and the inverted "U" portion of the mount structure above it. As far as the idle speed itself, it's not adjustable. It's maintained by the
  5. Let's assume that you have an 89 with the Turbo 2.2. If the timing belt is OK then the most likely culprit is the HEP ( Hall Effect Pickup ) inside the distributor. This is a VERY COMMON failure and typically occurs without warning. The HEP is easily changed as it's the black disc assembly inside the distributor just below the rotor. It's held in place by the distributor cap and lifts right out once the rotor is pulled off. There are two pickups inside and two wiring pigtails. One pickup is for ignition and the other is for the fuel injectors. Typically one the wires inside the pigtails breaks
  6. I've seen those inexpensive, aftermarket air horns that are sold in clear blister packs at the chain auto stores. The ones I've seen had FIAMM motors/compressors and red trumpets. I'd follow that AutoZone tip.
  7. The 90 and up models used a somewhat different door handle that accomodated the new lock cylinders that used the dual sided keys. Apparently Chrysler dropped the LED halo lights when they switched to the dual sided key design in their 1990 model cars. The J body LeBaron premium models from 87 to 89 have the lighted key cylinders and I suspect that their other Premium models had them as well in the same model years. The keyway lights were wired to either the interior courtesy light circuit or the ignition key cylinder light. I don't remember which, but they come on when the door handle is raise
  8. Looks a little too short to fill the plastic housing opening, but it looks OK. Kind of calls attention to itself. Could be a good thing or a bad thing. To each his own.
  9. I bought mine in 2001 and have never had the hardtop on since I brought it home. I hear it's not good to leave the soft top down due to shrinkage. Has anyone had their top shrink excessively ? I have the vinyl tan colored top. I wonder if the black canvas material holds up better or worse than the tan. My top shows some shrinkage but overall is pretty good. I always put the top up after driving with it down. On the other hand my headliner has shruken enough that it will no longer mate well with the Velcro on the mechanism and keeps pulling away. I assume there's no fix for this iisue short of
  10. You do want to check the turn signals and emergency flashers before going much further. You need to insure that these are working as they should and that BOTH bulbs in each tail light are working correctly for both running lights and for turn signals. Sometimes these "odd" problems can be caused by something as simple as a broken lamp filament that internally shorts over to the other filament in dual filament bulbs. Get the easy checks out of the way first before trying to trobleshoot the obscure problems. There may be a couple of things going on electrically speaking. If you have a bad or mi
  11. Well at least you know it's related to the brake light circuit. Since the brake lights are only at the rear of the car that pretty much leaves out a wiring issue in the front end of the car. The first thing I'd check is the turn signals and the emergency flashers to see if they work properly and light both bulbs in each tail lamp. If they work OK the it's a strong likelihood that the taillamp / turn signal wiring is OK. That leaves the brake light switch and wiring at the pedal assembly and the center high stoplight and it's related wiring. Since this lamp is mounted to the tonneau cover the
  12. I've had great luck with the Michelin Pilot Exalto's. All the Michelin's are excellent tires and were the only brand fitted as OE.
  13. The headlight switch is the same as that used in the Chrysler LeBarons and Dodge Daytonas from 84 through 89. These should be readilly available used through junk yards, eBay or similar. Marty at Arizona parts probably has new ones as well.
  14. Just referring tp the fact that the LeBaron bumper isn't at all the same as the TC's. Not even close.
  15. The J body LeBarons have an entirely different bumper. The "nerf" strips are simply painted on. The LeBaron bumper cover is basically a one piece affair. The TC bumper is quite complex and made up of quite a few separate parts.
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