GaryP5

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About GaryP5

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  • Birthday 11/04/1961
  1. Just searched your response and you are dead on correct. Thank you my man!
  2. I found this emblem while metal detecting and was wondering if anyone recognizes it. I'm not even sure it's from an auto but after an exhaustive search I thought I would reach out here. It's aluminum, about 2" x 1" and has two attachment prongs in the back. THX in advance, you guys rock.
  3. My 49. Other images including engine resto are available in my profile.
  4. That's great news. Ive heard of some people who have relocated their coils to the firewall because of overheating. That might be an option for you should your new coil get fried. Also... if the original coil is a "looker" you could always keep it for show purposes doing a quick swap before and after shows. Either way... good to hear your Torpedo is up and running. Cheers!
  5. A couple of things to think about... you mentioned an aftermarket fuel filter. My Pontiac fuel pump only puts out 4 lbs of pressure to pull the fuel from the tank. It's possible that your pump is struggling to pull fuel through the filter even when it's clean. I installed one a few months ago right outside my tank as it was filling my fuel bowl with rust. I had vapor lock/ hard starting like crazy afterward. I could tell it was a pressure problem as the fuel level in my water separator glass bowl would be somewhat low. I then resealed the fuel tank (eastwood has a kit) and pulled the filter, no problems since. Have you checked to see what volume of fuel your pump is pulling? One easy trial would be to temporary pull the fuel filter and give it a shot. It might be the solution... or it might not.
  6. Found a pic showing the nice painted flat spots where the vents should be.
  7. This is a long shot but it happened to me so I thought I would pass it on. I also rebuilt my carb this past winter. Got it all cleaned up and then sprayed each piece with Carb Renew from Eastwood paints. Used a rebuild kit from Cal Pon Res and it looks friggin' awesome. Installed it and then had weeks of nothing but trouble with it, especially on hot days. Finally I found the problem. It was the tiny bits of tape I had placed over the bowl vents to keep out the carb renew. When it was painted over the tape became invisible. The inability for the bowl to vent led to all my troubles. Check your vents, again... this is a long shot but I thought I would pass it on for anyone else who might make the same bonehead mistake that I made.
  8. Good news to report! I decided to tackle the generator today fully knowing that if I jacked it up I would be SOL for my weekend car show. I pulled it apart and shortly afterward I found the problem. One of the through-bolts that holds the end plate on was in contact with the contact bolts wires (see pic). I taped it up, put it back together and when I started the car the battery gage snapped to attention like it was meant to. No wild swings, no flucuations... rock steady. I am a happy camper. THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL OF YOUR HELP AND GUIDANCE!
  9. I almost forgot. What did you mean by a new moulded upper radiator hose? Is it because of the style I am using or the size (somewhat too big)? I'm trying to keep the car as original looking as possible so feedback is appreciated.
  10. Well I'm pretty sure the generator is grounded internally. Earlier today I pulled the FLD wire off from the regulator with the car running and the gage did not drop off. Just now I pulled the FLD terminal directly off the generator with the car running and it still did not drop off so the ground should be in the generator and not the wiring harness... correct? IaAlso pulled the inspection band off the gen and checked the internal terminal ends and wires with an inspection mirror and they all looked okay. Blew it out real good with a compressor and then checked the isolation grommets. One disintegrated so had to rebuild a new one but all of this didn't make a change to the gage reading so it looks like I'm in the market for a new generator. I have a show this weekend so am not going to attempt to pull anything until Monday. I just searched through a GM parts interchange book and a Chevy gen will work for my Pontiac. Which is good because I haven't had much luck searching for one using my make yet. Anyway... you've been a great help and have given me the courage to dig deeper than I did a couple of days ago. I appreciate it and will keep you updated once I get the new part installed. If you have any leads to help me find a new generator then that too would be appreciated. THANKS AGAIN! ~Gary
  11. That would make sense as I disconnected the FLD terminal from the regulator with the engine running and the gage still continued to swing to charge with acceleration. I would rather fix the generator than to buy a new one as they seem to be scarce. Would it be difficult to rebuild?
  12. Thanks again for all your help guys. Here's my update. First I disconnected the condenser and underhood light connections from the regulator (no change). Then after reading the service bulletin (THANKS!) I disconnected the field terminal while the engine was running (for fully charged w/ high charging rate). The ammeter did not drop off (no change to the acceleration/high charging swing). So from what I gather, and you already mentioned, I probably have a short in the generator or wiring harness somewhere. Again I'm on my third voltage regulator with the last one coming directly out of the box with no change to the gage so I'm going to rule it out for now. The wiring in my car is simple and least likely to be the cause (IMO) so I am going to pull the generator first and give it the once over. Anyone have any tips to ops checking it before I remove it? Maybe testing it with a multimeter?
  13. Thanks for the compliments, it's been a lot of work. I did some old aircraft restoration when I was in the Air Force but this is my first go with a car. I do have the wires connected between my gen and reg just as Bob asked. Second, this morning I removed the main ground strap plus the smaller engine to firewall strap and sanded both of their connection points plus the underlying block paint. Next I removed both wires connected to the gen and made sure they were the same as above. Fired it up to check the gage and no change. Lastly, I have a multimeter and am just learning to use it so I think I can figure out what you would be saying to do with it. One last thing... I used a hydrometer and checked the 6 volt battery cells and they were all good and fully charged. I think that is good, but is there a chance it could be over-charging?
  14. You were reading my mind about disconnecting those two items. I will do it in the am and see what happens. What I meant about already grounded is the underhood light switch is grounded to the inside fender and the condenser is grounded to the firewall (both via simply being mounted to the frame. Bear with me if I sound uninformed as I am working on my first classic and have never been had much prior auto mechanic experience. I know that sounds like a dangerous game to be playing but it is what it is.
  15. Thanks everyone for the tips! The FLD and GEN terminals go straight to the generator and are brand new wires in an asphalt loom so I think that they are good. The BATT terminal has three items attached to it (under hood light, radio condenser, and ammeter) but these things are already grounded so would a ground short occur? Anyway, I will start unwrapping the wiring this week and see what I find. I had to replace some of the wiring as it was 61 years old and crumbling. It might just be that I inadvertently connected something wrong on one of them. BTW, is there a way I can double check the battery gage beforehand? I didn't change any wiring under the dash as it's all intact but maybe the gage might be bad? Thanks again for your time and help.