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rusty_bucket

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Everything posted by rusty_bucket

  1. I have 2 Rivis: car #118 first day of production car most likely. 08C build code so 3rd week of August, 1964. Fisher body #1777. It has the defect. Both fenders exhibit it, but the drivers side is much more pronounced. car #29516. This one is a GS with a 03D build code 3rd week of March, 1965. The fenders and hood don't line up perfectly, but they are even with each other and very close to the hood line as well.
  2. Just wanted to post what I found out over at v8buick.com Apparently in the middle row of head bolts, some of the bolts go into the water chamber. The rear bolt for that alternator bracket happens to be one of those bolts. I'm trying to find out if maybe the oil I saw come out first might have just been engine crud built up in the bolt hole.
  3. Coast, My dad is currently replacing the torque converter in his 65 Rivi GS and he has had a very difficult time. He ordered one from online and it didn't fit, then he traded it into Obsolete Buick for what they said was the correct one. That one also does not seem to fit. The guy there said that there is no difference between the GS and non GS Rivi transmission, however I've always been told that the BS coded trans was a better built one. So to answer your question, Obsolete Buick might be a place to start. They are in Rockwall TX I think.
  4. I think it was actually a head bolt that was also used to hold on the bracket also. I think the oil that came out was from the head and the coolant is from the block under the head. There is rubber gasket around the bolt just at the top of the threads. Now I need to find out if I can simply put that bolt back in and will it keep the head and block separate. Since coolant has come up that hole, do I need to remove the valve cover and clean out coolant? Does anyone else have any experience with this?
  5. As the title states, I was removing the aluminum alternator bracket on my GS non-AC. The rear bolt came out and then it looked like oil or grease for just a second and then coolant. I've never had a nailhead apart, is that supposed to happen?
  6. Thanks! I've really enjoyed it, but realize it is all labor and spray paint. So far I'm in about 24 total work hours with another 16 to go. So a full work week to refresh a big portion of the front end by myself. Not a bad trade off I suppose. I'm sure a shop would charge a grand or so to do it if I could even find someone willing to do it at all.
  7. So my GS is a pretty low mile original, but it was not stored well for many years. It now runs like a top and my dad did a pretty darn good driveway paint job on it, but there is just light surface rust on many of the surfaces in the engine bay. I am in no position to handle a frame off restore on the car, besides, it runs and drives to well as it is.....most of what it needs is only cosmetic so I'm going to be handling all of this I can as a frame-on refreshing. I've removed the passenger front wheel and hub and am cleaning it and installing new inner and outer bearings. I pressure washed the inside of the wheel well to remove the old 50% gone, 100% cracked and peeling underlayment. I removed the Antenna access plate and replaced the original broken antenna with a spare I had. Removed all the passenger side engine bay accessories, pressure washed the sheet metal and low pressure washed around the motor along with a pick, screwdriver and toothbrush. Then a gentle degrease and rinse, prime and paint. I'll reassemble the wheel and well, then clean and replace the accessories. It came with an old set of aluminum AllState air horns that I may attempt to restore and replace although the original horns work fine. Here are some pictures: I'll post more pics as I progress. Trying to be done with the engine bay and both front wheels and wells by the end of the weekend. I know it's wishful thinking.
  8. I think he meant you could just buy a "Buick" wire hubcap that was in good condition and replace the "Buick" centerpiece with the "Riviera" center from your current hubcap. If you have an ebay account, look at this list of completed auctions. You can see the buick and riviera ones are the same but with different centers. Can be bought from $50-$100 http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=%2865%2C+1965%29+%28riviera%2C+riveria%2C+rivi%2C+buick%29+hubcap+wire&LH_Complete=1&rt=nc
  9. I did eventually. You have to pull the antenna down a little so that the grounding clip is released and the spring clip can pull out enough so the antenna can then be pulled the rest of the way down. It's a bit of a jigsaw puzzle under there but I was able to get everything apart....also, a big shot of PB Blaster helped loosen things up I think.
  10. Don't mean to hijack the thread, but I happen to be -attempting- to remove the antenna from my 65 today and it doesn't seem to want to move. I've removed the access panel and removed the antenna cable. There was no bolt in the pinch clamp but the antenna won't move. It does wiggle up and down a little along with the outer chrome trim piece. Is there a trick to getting the antenna to slide down and out?
  11. Ok, I have the issue finally resolved and just in case anyone ends up with the same problems in the future, I'll post what I did to fix. The car is just under 57k original miles and it had the original distributor cap. I bought a regular replacement cap, a new rotor and new points. I do not understand how to set timing really, so I paid a local mobile mechanic $65 to come set the timing at my house. When he was done it was still idling a little low, so I just slightly twisted the distributor clockwise maybe 1cm or less and it just started running like a champ. It runs like a sewing machine now.....well a sewing machine with a hot cam and an exhaust leak in front of the muffler.
  12. He posted the serial number today I think. It's 54933521 Looks like a pretty late production date Riviera GS engine. I would love to see a one of these motors re-united with it's original car.
  13. In case anyone is interested and is looking...I'm going to ask the seller to post the full serial from the block if possible http://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-Buick-Riviera-425-2-4-Short-Block-/271460478611?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f344e2e93&vxp=mtr
  14. It came from Karns City, Pa I believe. Now that guy didn't have a title and we bought it online so I don't know for a fact if the guy we bought from is in, or friends with, original owners family (that was implied) or if he bought it from them and then just flipped it to us. I suppose it's possible he bought it in Cali, had it shipped to Pa and then sold it, but considering what we paid for it, there's no way he made any money on it.
  15. Ok, I bought a set of points to put in, but haven't done that yet. We'll see how it goes today.
  16. I asked in another question but will post here as well. Do you have the clips for the rear first gen Riviera emblem? It has flat posts.
  17. That's just a few miles from my house if anyone needs some eyes on the ground.
  18. Finally picked up my first GS weekend before last and trying to get it all straightened out. My dad and I have been working on "refreshing" on an original 57k mile car. Original owner parked partially protected, but outside when brakes went out, it has a cracked or severely warped front drum. All numbers matching we had to replace the carpets and repaint. It's an original ZZ Silver Cloud, but my dad picked the color and decided on a darker silver - grey and added a painted black top. He painted it himself in the driveway, but it's a really good 10 foot job. Has a few spots of cancer in rear wheel well edges and trunk lip but overall a really straight car. Not many options on the car, but it does have power windows, so I have that going for me. A/C? Who needs A/C in a dual quad big block? So far, new plugs, wires, fuel pump, filter, restored original fuel tank from my parts car with a new sender. Original interior is in pretty solid usable condition however it's originally a standard interior car and at some point, someone swapped out an original deluxe set of front and rear seats. It runs and drives....misses a little bit when in park and revving, but when it goes into D or R, it really starts missing, and from the tailpipes, it sounds like the miss is coming from the drivers side. When driving, at low RPM, it will drive pretty well, but if you give moderate acceleration, the motor really shakes for a second before slowly starting to accelerate. Trying to get it ready for a trip to Colorado Springs for the ROA meet. One side question - I ordered a rear Riviera script for my trunklid and it didn't come with clips. I have the screw on type for the round post emblems that go on the fenders, but the rear emblem has flat posts. I didn't see any on OPGI although I couldn't really tell from the pictures. Does anyone have a source for these? Someone I'm related to seems to have misplaced the originals along with the original rear emblem. Here's an album of how we got the car and then the exterior after paint. <a href="http://imgur.com/a/Zvsa1" target="blank">1965 Gran Sport rescue</a> Options: Remote Mirror Tinted Front Glass Only Power Windows Door Edge guards (not currently on the car) Retractable Seatbelts
  19. Clams, I don't think Jason was trying to insinuate you were misrepresenting your car or that it was impossible that your car has a non-posi rear. He was just stating something we have all dealt with when working with the 65 Riv GS in particular. It's odd that your opposing rear wheel didn't spin at all. If you put your car in neutral and jack up the rear end and spin the drivers side rear wheel forward, toward the front of the car, the passenger side rear wheel will either spin forward or backward. If it spins forward, it's a Positrac rear end. If it spins backward, it's a standard rear end. I too have not heard of another Riv GS without the Posi rear, but I have seen them with special ordered rear end gear ratios. That and it's possible that when your car got a new engine, it might have received a new rearend as well. Even as a GS without the original LX, you can still keep it badged and keep the dual quad setup and BS code trans and it's a really nice car. If it's not a posi rear end, be on the lookout for an original (date appropriate***) one and pop that honey in there. With that setup and a nice body / interior, combo, it'll always be a desirable car and you'll get good money for it. If at all possible it'd be great to track down previous owners of the car and see what they remember having done.....of course that's not possible on alot of cars. ***Date appropriate means find the orig build date of your car on the firewall tag and then make sure you get a correct buick posi from near that date. It would be odd although not incorrect to have a car made in August 64 with a rear end made in July 65.
  20. Ok, I'm gonna do it then. Have a GS and just had the motor rebuilt. Realized I don't have the starter for it but I do have a spare 401 with a starter on it. Thanks for the info!
  21. Will the starter off a 1965 401 work on a 1965 425? I'm finding conflicting information
  22. It seems like we have misplaced our rocker arm bolts for our '65 401 heads. Does anyone know where to find replacements?
  23. This will be for light duty cruising, highway trips. Definitely not racing. It's Riviera serial number 118 and fisher body 1777 so as far as I can tell, it's the earliest surviving 65 Rivi. I'd like to keep it as stock as possible and as original as possible while still having a good usable car. It is smoking, however I'm not sure if it's due to water or oil. It looks more like white smoke so I'm really hoping it's just a head gasket or something like that and not rings or even worse.
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