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About rusty_bucket

  • Birthday 04/21/1972

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  1. I have 2 Rivis: car #118 first day of production car most likely. 08C build code so 3rd week of August, 1964. Fisher body #1777. It has the defect. Both fenders exhibit it, but the drivers side is much more pronounced. car #29516. This one is a GS with a 03D build code 3rd week of March, 1965. The fenders and hood don't line up perfectly, but they are even with each other and very close to the hood line as well.
  2. Just wanted to post what I found out over at v8buick.com Apparently in the middle row of head bolts, some of the bolts go into the water chamber. The rear bolt for that alternator bracket happens to be one of those bolts. I'm trying to find out if maybe the oil I saw come out first might have just been engine crud built up in the bolt hole.
  3. Coast, My dad is currently replacing the torque converter in his 65 Rivi GS and he has had a very difficult time. He ordered one from online and it didn't fit, then he traded it into Obsolete Buick for what they said was the correct one. That one also does not seem to fit. The guy there said that there is no difference between the GS and non GS Rivi transmission, however I've always been told that the BS coded trans was a better built one. So to answer your question, Obsolete Buick might be a place to start. They are in Rockwall TX I think.
  4. I think it was actually a head bolt that was also used to hold on the bracket also. I think the oil that came out was from the head and the coolant is from the block under the head. There is rubber gasket around the bolt just at the top of the threads. Now I need to find out if I can simply put that bolt back in and will it keep the head and block separate. Since coolant has come up that hole, do I need to remove the valve cover and clean out coolant? Does anyone else have any experience with this?
  5. As the title states, I was removing the aluminum alternator bracket on my GS non-AC. The rear bolt came out and then it looked like oil or grease for just a second and then coolant. I've never had a nailhead apart, is that supposed to happen?
  6. Thanks! I've really enjoyed it, but realize it is all labor and spray paint. So far I'm in about 24 total work hours with another 16 to go. So a full work week to refresh a big portion of the front end by myself. Not a bad trade off I suppose. I'm sure a shop would charge a grand or so to do it if I could even find someone willing to do it at all.
  7. So my GS is a pretty low mile original, but it was not stored well for many years. It now runs like a top and my dad did a pretty darn good driveway paint job on it, but there is just light surface rust on many of the surfaces in the engine bay. I am in no position to handle a frame off restore on the car, besides, it runs and drives to well as it is.....most of what it needs is only cosmetic so I'm going to be handling all of this I can as a frame-on refreshing. I've removed the passenger front wheel and hub and am cleaning it and installing new inner and outer bearings. I pressure washed the inside of the wheel well to remove the old 50% gone, 100% cracked and peeling underlayment. I removed the Antenna access plate and replaced the original broken antenna with a spare I had. Removed all the passenger side engine bay accessories, pressure washed the sheet metal and low pressure washed around the motor along with a pick, screwdriver and toothbrush. Then a gentle degrease and rinse, prime and paint. I'll reassemble the wheel and well, then clean and replace the accessories. It came with an old set of aluminum AllState air horns that I may attempt to restore and replace although the original horns work fine. Here are some pictures: I'll post more pics as I progress. Trying to be done with the engine bay and both front wheels and wells by the end of the weekend. I know it's wishful thinking.
  8. I think he meant you could just buy a "Buick" wire hubcap that was in good condition and replace the "Buick" centerpiece with the "Riviera" center from your current hubcap. If you have an ebay account, look at this list of completed auctions. You can see the buick and riviera ones are the same but with different centers. Can be bought from $50-$100 http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=%2865%2C+1965%29+%28riviera%2C+riveria%2C+rivi%2C+buick%29+hubcap+wire&LH_Complete=1&rt=nc
  9. I did eventually. You have to pull the antenna down a little so that the grounding clip is released and the spring clip can pull out enough so the antenna can then be pulled the rest of the way down. It's a bit of a jigsaw puzzle under there but I was able to get everything apart....also, a big shot of PB Blaster helped loosen things up I think.
  10. Don't mean to hijack the thread, but I happen to be -attempting- to remove the antenna from my 65 today and it doesn't seem to want to move. I've removed the access panel and removed the antenna cable. There was no bolt in the pinch clamp but the antenna won't move. It does wiggle up and down a little along with the outer chrome trim piece. Is there a trick to getting the antenna to slide down and out?
  11. Ok, I have the issue finally resolved and just in case anyone ends up with the same problems in the future, I'll post what I did to fix. The car is just under 57k original miles and it had the original distributor cap. I bought a regular replacement cap, a new rotor and new points. I do not understand how to set timing really, so I paid a local mobile mechanic $65 to come set the timing at my house. When he was done it was still idling a little low, so I just slightly twisted the distributor clockwise maybe 1cm or less and it just started running like a champ. It runs like a sewing machine now.....well a sewing machine with a hot cam and an exhaust leak in front of the muffler.
  12. He posted the serial number today I think. It's 54933521 Looks like a pretty late production date Riviera GS engine. I would love to see a one of these motors re-united with it's original car.
  13. In case anyone is interested and is looking...I'm going to ask the seller to post the full serial from the block if possible http://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-Buick-Riviera-425-2-4-Short-Block-/271460478611?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f344e2e93&vxp=mtr
  14. It came from Karns City, Pa I believe. Now that guy didn't have a title and we bought it online so I don't know for a fact if the guy we bought from is in, or friends with, original owners family (that was implied) or if he bought it from them and then just flipped it to us. I suppose it's possible he bought it in Cali, had it shipped to Pa and then sold it, but considering what we paid for it, there's no way he made any money on it.
  15. Ok, I bought a set of points to put in, but haven't done that yet. We'll see how it goes today.
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