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Even though my cars not a GS, it is 425 equipped. So should I follow the GS routing and follow the frame to the axle. If the bends are to dampen resonance why does the GS not do it? also I guess the 2.25 pipe would be easier to bend following the frame than snaking.

Good points, I think I'm going to go with 2.25, no resonators, and the flowmaster transverse muffler. I might also go with 2 inch after the muffler. If it's too loud I have a line on some resonators. By the way, what is the reason the exhaust is snaked like it is? Does anyone know? Thanks all, Joey #12735

Hey guys, i've seen this subject discussed but I have a differant angle. I'm about to put a new exhaust on my 65. It has the original on it now, plus about five pounds of muffler putty and exhaust bandage. I'm looking at a tranverse mounted flowmaster with no resonaters ( they are shot). I don't want any popping or cackling like you get from glasspacks (no offense for those who have them). I'm after a mellow rumble sound. The guy I'm having do it wants to put 2.5 inch all the way, he says that will give a deeper rumble. I was looking at 2.25, since I have a 425 (non GS) and that's what a GS runs, it has the 2 inch on it now. I was wondering should I stay with 2 inch, upgrade two 2.25 or go all out to 2.5. I figure since a GS runs 2.25 with a 425 that would be the way to go. But, is he right will I get a deeper rumble from a 2.5? Also will a 2.5 hurt my performance, because I know you have to have a certain amount of back pressure? So, everybody put your thinking caps on and let me know what you think. thanks Joey #12735

It goes to a fitting behind the carb on the intake. A small brass (at least it looks it)elbow fitting. It's the one in the center of the picture. Joey #12735

My two cents on the black one. Look at the shiny paint don't look close at the car is what's up. More cons, heater core is bypassed and custum painters tape around the master cylinder,(what?) Pass!! Joey #12735 PS. Like everyone said, follow your gut. I thought I missed on a few good buys-cars but fell into the one I have now by accident. Had everything I wanted at a decent price. Just right time right place. It's out there, can you feel it?

Tommy, I can't think of anything else, I removed mine on the drivers side and had the whole console, front seats and carpet out. I didn't remove anything under the dash on the passenger side. just removed the screws that held the brackets under the evaporator, which gave me enogh wiggle room. Be carefull of the firewall insulation when you pull the core out. I pulled some chunks off but they were where I could glue them back in before reinstall. I'm sure someone else has some tips too but, most of the posts on this thread are about it. I think I read somewhere that this job is a 5 to 6 hour job for the dealer. Could be wrong. Joey #12735

Tommy, just about everything with this process seems impossible. Are the screws you are talking about on each side of the housing inside the car? If so it's best to remove them and the plastic ducts or they will probably break off when you try to remove the housing. I used a flexible extension on a small nut driver and a lot of patience. I ended up breaking one but some super glue fixed it. When you start to try to remove the housing from under the dash you will swear ( This damn thing is not going to come out this way) but it will, (I even removed my gas pedal). The heater core itself is screwed into the housing so you don't have to worry about it falling out. I don't know about anybody else but mine went back in easier than it came out. I guess because I knew which way to turn it. When you replace it make sure there are no vacume hoses or cables behind it before you button it up, and be carefull of the outlets. The long and short of it is, it's a pain in the butt. But it is also a great feeling of accomplishment when you get it done. Joey #12735

That's exactly what I am looking for. I guess I'm not using the right search criteria because i've never seen them on there. thanks a bunch. Joey #12735

I thought I'd use Rob J's picture for reference porposes. Can you still get a fuel filter like this one? I've seen blue ones repop but not the silver ones. This is what I took off of my car. Hate those cheap generic ones. If nothing else does anyone know a part number? Or did the blue one take it's place? It's around 40 bucks. Tried cross referencing with other GM but no luck so far. Any help? Thanks, Joey #12735

Nope, ground straps are still good. I'm replacing it is why I wanted to know. Good so I guess I can clean it up a bit without the wire. Thanks guys. Joey

Just a quick question. On my 65 on the negative cable there is a smaller wire from the terminal post that goes under one of the screws on the voltage regulator. Do I need this wire? I've seen some that don't have it and some do. Any insight ? Thanks guys. Joey #12735

Try classicbuicks.com I believe they have the e- brake pad and the brake pad. But no gas pedal. Joey #12753

Hey, welcome. I scratched my head on the same deal. I removed the bolts that hold the metal bumper filler on and the seven nuts on the bottom of the grill and wiggled it out. I didn't have my bumper off so if you do it should be easier. I think there are two bolts on each side parallel with the bumper on the ends and two bolts on each side of the radiator between it and the headlights. With your bumper off that piece should come out. The threaded part of the bolts stay in the grill when you remove the nuts on the bottom, at least mine did. There might be a different or easier way but thats how I did it. Joey #12753

If anyone needs one of these I got one from Paragon Corvette Reproductions. Perfect fit, stainless,8 bucks, item # 669. He had 600 in stock, ha ha. Joey #12753

Yeah, I'm getting mine recored. Theres a local radiator shop that rebuilt my radiator and I'm having them rebuild my heater core. Thanks Glenn I'll get some seam sealer, that should do the trick. Doug, i've already dropped my core off to be fixed so I can't look at mine to see if there are any numbers like you mentioned. I took pictures of mine but I can't see any numbers on it in the pics, sorry. Joey,#12753

GOT IT !!!! Been leaking for a while looks like. I guess thats why there was stop leak in my coolant system. Now the fun part of remembering where everything went for reassembly. Anybody know what kind of sealent to use around the housing? Thanks, Joey

This sunday I've decided to tackle my heater core on my 65 and replace it. I'm going from the inside. I have everything out of the way inside and have removed all of the nuts in the engine bay. I think I may have missed a nut or something, I can pry it away a little but can't get it away from the firewall all the way. I have removed 8 nuts are there more or is it just stuck on the sealent? It's the hollow looking nuts around the perimeter of the heater box right? I had to stop for now, I'm working nights this week and got to hit the bed soon. I'm hoping to work on it some this week before next weekend. I've searched all of the info that i could find and it seems I should be able to remove it, but.... Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated. My patience has held up pretty well through this progect. I just turn the radio up a little bit and let the frustrations fly, and turn it back down and resume the knuckle busting. thanks Joey #12735

What color paint did you use? Joey

What is the color on the clamshell covers? Is it black that has faded to gray or is it a gray? It looks like it might be the gray similar to the color on chevy rally wheels. I was going to repaint mine to freshen them up. The procedure was going to be to paint them and while they were wet get a rag with some paint thinner on it and wipe of the chrome parts. Is there a better or easier way to do this? Thanks guys, Joey #12735

I have one of the cd's for my 65. It seems to have everything in it, I haven't seen a hard copy personally. Anything I need has been in there. One good thing is if you know what your going to work on you can print those pages and use them and if you get them greasy or damaged just print another one. Could get costly if you get carried away. But, also if your working on something and need to look it up ,unless you have your laptop right there ready to go,you have to go load the cd and search for it. I'll probably get a hard copy in the future but, to study and learn the goings on of these cars it's great. Personal preferance really. My 2 cents worth. Joey #12735

I saw the trailer the other day too. Free publicity for the make. Look what Dukes of Hazard movie did for mopar. Is it just me or is Nicholas Cage trying way too hard to be a badass in his movies lately? I know he's a big car guy but I think he had to get rid of a few when he went bankrupt a few years ago. Joey

I believe I'm going to pull the trigger on one of these. It looks right. If nothing else I can send it back with a scathing review. Thanks Joey

Yes, I just mean I don't want one with four different mounting options or extra or different pieces on it ( tabs) or fittings that will reach with a little coaxing . I'm not judjing the car I just want something that is comparable to the original. Maybe I should have worded it like that. thanks Joey

Need a line on a new ac condensor for my 65. Don't want a universal one. I want a new one, NOS, OE. Just not a universal. I found some a while back but I can't remember where I saw them. I guess it was hard to concentrate on AC when it's 10 degrees outside. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Joey