RivVrgn

Thats the problem, won't know if the 40 plus year old tank is corroding from the inside out until it does especially the seams. what i can see it doesn't look bad but I'm after the dependabilty factor. just some peace of mind. thanks

ok thanks I'll check it out

Hi all, I'm kicking around a few things and thought i'd get some opinions. I've pulled my fuel tank and figured while i'm there....... I'm looking to put some kind of coating on the inside and was wondering if anyone has done this and what you've used, there are a few out there. Like KBS, one from Eastwood, POR-15, and a few industrial. I've read about and googled till i see it when I close my eyes. Even on Eastwoods website reviews are 50 50. I've come to the conclusion that it sounds like prep, prep, prep is the answer to it being successful. It sounds like after the cleaning it has to be dry, dry, then dry it again. Just wondering if anybody had a preference for a particular brand. I'm leaning towards the POR 15 because I have had success with everything I've used from them. Also I'm wanting to leave the outside bare metal color. Is the tank itself galvanized or is it coated from the factory to prolong its life? if I wire wheel or the like to clean it (already done) will i remove the coating? I know Eastwood sells a tank paint they say is close to factory color and prevents corrosion. Tank isn't in bad shape just figured while it"s out might as well do it so I won't have to maybe pull it down the road. Thanks, Joey

This car bid up to $65,000 at the Mecum auction. No sale.

It's the equipment. everything from the gun to the grate its on to capture the fluid and recirculate it. I have been kicking around doing this for a while. can't quite make that jump yet. haven't dove too deep into it yet, just brushed over it if someone is interested they will let you tour their facility and give you the sales pitch, kinda like a timeshare pitch haha

Spectra Chrome is one of them I think they are based in Fla. It doesn't look cheap but being water based would really help on the EPA big brother. Yes it is cool, perfect for smaller trim pieces and pot metal. You can also do colors, (it looks like anodized.) i believe this type of system is what is used to chrome a whole car.

hey scott did you put the black stripe back on the pieces? if so ,how? Joey

Boy I lit that fuse. So how is the Brad Penn oil able to maintain its supposedly high level of zinc if federal regs say otherwise? Or is it not any higher than the afformetioned?

I'm sorta new to this zinc thing but I thought the Rotella and the chevron delo had there zinc content lowed when the diesels were forced to use low sulfur fuel for emissions and it went hand in hand with reducing some things in the oil too bringing down with it the zinc content. In other words I thought content was legislated way down. Whatever works if it still has the zinc in it, cool I'll use it. it would be easier to find than this Brad Penn oil. So I would use single weight not 10w40? How would I determine the weight to use

sorry, no link just a picture. operator malfunction

there websight says its an all american refined oil from Pa. Not one of the big boys. I think available in most popular wieghts I have a few buddies that run this in there older cars and they say it does great. It is refined with zinc in it. I would rather use an oil made with zinc than add it to a modern oil. Any thoughts or familiarity ? thanks

thanks guys yes Mike it did come with that piece. I guess the panel had to be cut like that for the dip in the brace, and that piece fills it in. thanks a million Don thats what I needed. So it looks like the mounts are just plates welded to the brace. That works cause I want to move the seats back a few inches for a little more legroom. appreciate the help guys and thanks again.

Have a question about the floorpans of my 65, I can't find that this has been addressed. My seat mounts on both drivers and passenger fronts have rusted away. not just rusted but rusted away, they,re gone. just the outer ones, but on both sides. the braces are fine it is just the floor and the outer seat mounts in the floor for the front seats. I have some patch panels and am in the process of installing them. problem is the rear mount of the seat in the floor, what does it look like? the patch panel I have and the one that I see most people do have just has a cutout where the mount goes. I notice the brace has a dip in it at the mount area, does the seat mount directly to it or is it raised to the level of the rest? I know this sounds confusing but unless you have seen this I don't know how else to explain it. I posted a pic of the floor and the panel. If I just follow the contour of the floor I guess I just add some extra steel in that area to make something to mount to. this is no show car and it will be covered with dynamat ,but I want it to be safe and I would like to have a level seat. thanks guys Joey #12735

Hey, to all who have made there own, how did you apply the stripe or did you ? what product did you use and did you just use a straight edge and draw it on? I think I might try the DIY route myself. Thanks Joey ROA#12735

Yeah, that's what I thought too but,with some cleaning and scraping it was okay. But, if had gone much longer it would have burned through. I caught it just in time,even though the gasket burned through the base was saved. I dodged a bullit on that one. After cleaning and rebuild it's working just fine. At least it was a good surprise. Joey

Here is a picture of my carb and baffle plate I took off my 65. You'll notice the plate has the holes just like the base of the carb and the gasket, the ones I have seen offered don't. Like someone else said other cars used these also. Try a site called paragon corvette. The plate is for a 62-65 corvette. The part number I have is 669. (GM part # 3799354)Thats where I got mine and it fits and works perfect, just like original. Joey #12735

Here's what I went with. Pictures aren't real good, the sun was awful bright that day. 2.25 inch to two flowmaster hushpower resonators (mufflers), a flowmaster crossflow muffler and 2.50 inch tailpipes. Pipes run along the frame and the tailpipes have a little turndown with a slight cut in the end. Sounds great, nice and mellow,and the tailpipes look good from the rear with the cut, not just a pipe sticking out. Joey #12735

Thanks guys for all the info. Yea I saw that one on E-bay, trying to get around poppin two hundred bucks for a fix. I have the bolt on type. I'll try to look up those guys on the other website. I thought I had seen something of a replacement. Not losin it yet. thanks again. Joey #12735

Hi all, while I was redoing my exhaust I found out my heat riser was cracked. It wasn't frozen and actually worked, but messing with it after forty years revealed a crack from the manifold side, through it and out about an inch. So now there is an exhaust leak, small but it's there. So what I would like to do is replace it. (If I have to I'll hunt down a replacement, but I really don't need it as I probably won't be driving in cold weather.) I could have sworn I read on here (someone metioned)about someone who made a replacement piece for it, like a spacer without the butterfly, just a piece of machined metal. but I have searched and I can't find it. Does anybody know what I am talking about or heard of this or am I just imagining things?:confused: Thanks, Joey #12735

Thanks guys. Good to know I don't have to chase any gremlins in my lights. Joey #12735

I have a question, another thread reminded me of this. On a 65 should the front marker lights stay on when you turn on the headlights? Mine go off. the turn signals work as they should but the marker lights aren't on. Pull the knob out one click, parking lights, all the way headlights and no parking lights. Also, are there no hazard flashers on these cars? Thanks Joey #12735

My mistake Ed, I meant under the frame. When you lose your point of reference you don't know what's up or down. Where would you put an H or X pipe, my pipes follow the frame? I've got a line on some 12 inch hushpowers that i'm going to put where the stock resonators were. I'll let you know what happens. Joey#12735

After all of the info batted around on here I decided to run 2.25 inch pipe. I didn't follow the original routing though. My exhaust guy came down from the manifolds over the frame, tucked next to the center then turned where the resonators were(i didn't run any) hooked up with the resonator hanger there, (stock hanger placement)went over the axle into the flowmaster muffler (stock hanger placement ) and out the back(stock hanger placement) with factory cuts on the tips (no chrome). It does have a slight drone in the cabin when it's in gear and you are at a light, but I think I can tweak this with some small resonators. Otherwise it sounds great. I expected to do some kind of tweaking with not going stock. The exhaust guy did a great job. The pipes are straight as an arrow and the bends on both sides match all the way back. Anybody that can make stuff like this with there hands has my respect any day. I'll try to get a pic or two. I'm real happy with it. Thanks for all of the input guys. Joey #12735

So, Your GS has all the bends of a regular rivs exhaust? Is it 2.25 inch? Just exhaust no hangers? bolts together? Joey #12735

My 65 has the 425 single 4bbl (non GS) and it has 2 inch exhaust with all of the bends in it. I'm pretty sure it's original. The shop I am going to have do it said he will make it just like OE, with all of the bends or how ever I want it. He has done a lot of classics and rods, and stuff in between. He listens to what you want, tells you how he will do it, and you can also bounce ideas off each other. Thats why i've asked the Riv community about my options. I'm right there with you RivNut, does the 64 have all the bends and or the larger size? Less bends less money, yes. That might not be a bad idea. If I don't need the bends I don't want to pay for them.But, I guess it will make it a little louder(no resonators and a transverse flowmaster). lot of info,thanks Joey #12735