zazothex

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About zazothex

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  • Birthday 09/06/1978

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  1. Just got a job out of town & can't take it with me. Will give discount for anyone that can take it off my hands from this site. You've helped me a great deal over the years, but have to step out of the life for a bit. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lincoln-Continental-Convertible-1947-lincoln-continental-convertible-project-/281263891408?forcerrptr=true&hash=item417ca263d0&item=281263891408&pt=US_Cars_Trucks
  2. Thanks all. I'll see what I can get done when I get back to my shop this weekend
  3. Having some trouble getting the '47 V12 up and running after the rebuild. I have it setup on a stand and am taking my time before trying to fire it. Have good voltage to the coils (>2.8v / 5.2v) but am having a problem upon turning it over. I ran a test light (unpowered) from a ground to the condensers and one one bank flashes nicely showing the points are fine. On the other side, the just fades but doesn't go out. I thought it was the points arcing, but I pulled the dizzy (Setup by Skip 2 years ago) and the points are opening & closing just fine. I switched condensers to a different set and same thing. So I have good power to the coil but can't get spark yet. I cleaned all my contacts and have good grounds. I have noticed a major crack in the terminal plate on the bad side, but I don't figure any arcing on the sparkplug leads would affect the points just yet. Do you think a new plate would solve this? I've got one ordered, but am trying to get the gremlins out in the meantime.
  4. I pulled engine & trans separately, but I was doing a near complete teardown, so already was missing the floor pans and all the engine compartment components (linkages, steering, firewall boltons, &c.) There's some debate on the gross weight of both engine & trans around here, but I'm being careful and guessing around 900+ pounds for the pair. So be aware of that when choosing a cherrypicker. I managed to get the trans out from below with a couple of floor jacks and a few well-placed 2x4s. If I remember, the hardest thing was clearing the wishbone & getting it to drop behind the front crossmember.
  5. Sounds great. Already have ass'bly lubed the thing. I'll try the spinning. Cheers
  6. I'm finally putting the '47 engine back together and am wondering about how everyone primes the oil pump. I know we can't use the old drill motor trick in these. Some of the flathead curmudgeons at the HAMB suggest packing the entire pickup with vaseline. Since the v12 unlike the V8 has a filter, could I just keep adding a pint at a time to the canister and let gravity pull it down thru the block? It's been sitting for a few months as I've waited for parts and whatnot, so I was going to hit the cam with a drop or two more cam lube before sealing it up as well. Any tricks anyone know about?
  7. Does anyone have a good way to remove the hinges & doors from a postwar connie? I've tried any number of swear words, but none of the large slotted machine screws seem to budge, even after making sure the nuts on the front of the A pillars are off. I've found that almost all the bolts heading into the aluminum window frame are practically cemented in.
  8. On the postwars: next to the driver's motor mount on the top of the crossmember.
  9. Dunno if there's something different about the LC, but in all mine with drums, I start with the wheel furthest from the MC and work my way back. So I'm guessing that's the Pass rear, Drv rear, Pass front and then drv front.
  10. hope it helps. I've spent more than a few hours underneath a dash, dodging crap falling in my eyes.
  11. there are 2-3 clips around the inside edge of the rim that secure it into place. These aren't too bad to get to with a 3" extension on a ratchet. IIRC, it's a 3/8" nut. The bulbs are all press-in, and will come out with a slight lateral push. If they're a bit stuck in and are worried about breaking them, the wires for each are short & lead to a butt connector about 6" back. I had the most difficultly getting it freed from the drive cable, but it's a lot easier once it's hanging out of the dash
  12. I'm finishing up my new pans, and have a quick one: for the heater cutouts ('47 lcc: hot water), I see from what remains of my original floors that there are three screw holes and one for the water line. However, it looks as if there are also larger (4" or so) holes in the center of each side as if to allow the indents for the fan motors to poke through below & let the heater sit flush on the floor. I have a few pics of other peoples' pans (Thanks Tom Overfield), but don't see these big ones. The OEM pans were almost gone when I started, so I can't tell if I'm just reading rust wrong, or are there these larger ones as well?
  13. I'm looking for the skirts to go with that trim. '47 Connie. Thanks
  14. I dunno about anyone else, but I'm planning on POR15'ing the underside after I get everything cleaned. That's for longevity & protection. Over that, I'm thinking spray-on rubberized undercoat (Eastwood/Napa/&c.) to match the appearance of vintage. If I can get the money, I may look into LineX or Rhino.